Parking Brake re-assembly tips (2 Viewers)

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re_guderian

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So on a recent trip, I noticed the GX making a rather "unrefined" squeaking sound definitely emanating from the passenger's rear hub area. Upon disassembly and taking the rotor off, I noticed one of the parking brake (emergency brake/hand brake) pads flopping around in the in/out direction. Quick search of the FSM indicated that the hold down pin, cups, and spring were likely to blame, and visual confirmation that the pin was indeed missing from the back side of the backing plate. Got parts from Bell Lexus and tackled what I thought was going to be a half-hour, in-and-out job. I just have to say that this is the WORST design ever. There is absolutely no room to get fingers or tools in there to compress the spring and rotate the outer cup to lock it all in place.

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Edit: before using this tip, scroll down to post #5 in this thread...
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And there are no provisions for any tool (that I know of). The back side of the pin (like a nail head) is round (should have made it hex to fit a socket), and the outer surface of the outer cup is smooth and polished, yet you need to apply a significant compression force WHILE rotating it 90 degrees to engage the locking feature. (should have holes to accept a pin-like tool, or a raised hex area to accept a socket.) But I'm sure Toyota has maximized the profits on a 50 year-old design, so I won't hold my breath. All YouTube videos of parking brake assembly make this step look so easy, because on other designs it IS so easy. They don't bury this hold down spring deep behind the flange, or have other provisions to access it. Anyway, thought I'd share what I learned...

First, after jacking and securing the truck, including chocking the front wheels, you'll need to put the truck in Neutral to be able to rotate the rear hub and align a hole in the flange with the hold down spring. If you wait to do this until you've removed the caliper, well, just remember you have to push the brake pedal to be able to shift into N... :cry:

Next, after spending multiple hours of squinting, swearing and sweating, I stopped for a break, and found an old thread over on the GX 470/Prado 120 side of GXOR that I'll reference here. It. Was. A. Life. Saver. I can't figure any other way to re-do, repair, or replace the parking brake shoes/assembly without this step.


This thread has all the FSM pictures as well.

I ended up using 16 gage picture wire, and threading it through the hole in the flange, through the center hole of the outer cup along side the pin, through the spring, and through the center hold of the inner cup, then around the outside of the cup/spring assembly, back through the hole in the flange, and wrapped the loose ends around some wheel studs.

This effectively compresses the spring OUTBOARD against the outer cup and end of the pin, leaving enough room to manipulate the shoe into position behind the compressed spring while getting the pin lined up with the slot in the shoe. You may still have to use a variety of tools to do all the fiddling. I used a trim tool, small regular screwdriver, dental pick, and locking needle-nose to get everything all buttoned up.

Using this technique I was able to get it all back together in fairly short order with a minimum of drama. Enough that I no longer dread having to take that all apart again. Outside of the order of assembly, the FSM is useless. It simple says "install". But no hints as to how.

A few pics for reference.
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Wow .... really appreciate you posting that (and you too re_guderian ...

I bought my used 2018 GX 460 last December and noticed that the parking brake had that barely perceptible rotational squeak. Could barely hear it as I coasted up to stop lights in quiet environments. Took it back to Lexus. They gave me a song and dance about how the previous owner had done a brake job (as evidenced by aftermarket rear pads) and had left out a pin when reassembling the PARKING brake. (??) Anyway they "fixed" it.

I don't usually use the parking brake and stupidly didn't test it before I left. I only cared that it was no longer squeaking.. A few months later I had to use the parking brake and it was weak, and then afterwards, the light rotational squeaking was audible at low speeds. By the time I was ready to take it back in, it had stopped. Pohanka Lexus in Chantilly VA gave me the run around, wouldn't stand behind their work, and wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to crack it all back open and sort it out. But the squeak was gone so I just let it ride.

So I appreciate this thread so that if I ever get my sh*t together and tackle this job. Even though I never use it, I hate not having my GX460 parking brake operating properly/afraid to use it.

I would love to hear of a solid trustworthy Toyota/Lexus mechanic within 100 miles of DC if anyone knows one, by the way. Brakes and suspension?
 
Another rabbit hole as well

 
So I'm going to leave my ill-informed, ignorant rant intact above, and just say, plan ahead, go to Napa, and buy this tool a week or so ahead of your planned job. $20. They had to ship mine from Fresno to Phoenix, so they're not super-available. Bought Saturday evening, in stock Thursday. Would never attempt without it again. Screw the whole wire thing...😂

Part # 364

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Is the GX460 supposed to roll back a little (that initial "settling" roll, after shift to P and apply the parking brake) when parked on a hill? No matter how deep I press down on the parking brake, the truck still needs to roll back alittle before being secured. I don't recall my F150 rolling back. The truck is new, 1500 miles, so is it advisable to get the tension adjusted?
 
Is the GX460 supposed to roll back a little (that initial "settling" roll, after shift to P and apply the parking brake) when parked on a hill? No matter how deep I press down on the parking brake, the truck still needs to roll back alittle before being secured. I don't recall my F150 rolling back. The truck is new, 1500 miles, so is it advisable to get the tension adjusted?
If you set the parking brake while your foot is depressing the brake pedal, and then shift to park, your rig shouldn't move. The roll means that your transmission is holding the truck, not the parking brake.
 
If you set the parking brake while your foot is depressing the brake pedal, and then shift to park, your rig shouldn't move. The roll means that your transmission is holding the truck, not the parking brake.
Maybe a professional wouldn’t call it a “roll back”, but I’ve done everything, it still has to “set back in place”. I pull up my driveway, keep foot on the brake, apply parking brake to the deepest (and tried different speed), shift to P, foot off the brake, then the car always leans back/set back/roll back just a little. This is a 1500 mile car. I know the feeling when a car absolutely doesn’t move (as with my previous cars). My mechanic also says when on a hill this type of slight “roll into place” is normal for most passenger cars.
 
What happens when you shift to N without disengaging the parking brake then take your foot off the brake? What happens in reverse, also with parking brake engaged and foot off both gas and brake? Does the parking brake prevent the car from moving? It should in those situations.

There isn't anything about the parking brake shoes being engaged with the drum lining that should allow a roll, and then grab, if properly adjusted and applied. Ask your mechanic to explain how this is occurring.
 
I will give those options a try, I thought about them too. Also, just spoke to a Lexus dealer service, they gave it some good thinking and told me it's just due to the weight of the car, and it's just a "shift" , which is the right word. well
 
I will give those options a try, I thought about them too. Also, just spoke to a Lexus dealer service, they gave it some good thinking and told me it's just due to the weight of the car, and it's just a "shift" , which is the right word. well
Warranty work pays squat to a dealer compared to customer-pay. They're aren't motivated to take your rig in and inspect/adjust it. Customer-pay service is the economic life blood of a modern dealership. Filter everything they tell you through that fact, even Lexus, before giving any credence to what they say. If the weight of the car provides enough inertia to let it move slightly AFTER the parking brake is engaged, what magic force then stops it (other than the park pawl of the transmission)? Anyway, maybe I'm not exactly understanding what you're describing. Upon start up on same driveway, is it effortless to shift out of park? Try those tests and see what happens. And don't trust about 95% of what any dealer service advisor tells you...
 
What happens when you shift to N without disengaging the parking brake then take your foot off the brake? What happens in reverse, also with parking brake engaged and foot off both gas and brake? Does the parking brake prevent the car from moving? It should in those situations.

There isn't anything about the parking brake shoes being engaged with the drum lining that should allow a roll, and then grab, if properly adjusted and applied. Ask your mechanic to explain how this is occurring.
Ok just tried the N option, it worked. Drove up the hill, braked to a stop, foot on the brake, shift to N, apply parking/vice versa, the car stayed still. Then shifted to P. It does require long travel, four clicks is not enough, has to go down to the metal.
 
Warranty work pays squat to a dealer compared to customer-pay. They're aren't motivated to take your rig in and inspect/adjust it. Customer-pay service is the economic life blood of a modern dealership. Filter everything they tell you through that fact, even Lexus, before giving any credence to what they say. If the weight of the car provides enough inertia to let it move slightly AFTER the parking brake is engaged, what magic force then stops it (other than the park pawl of the transmission)? Anyway, maybe I'm not exactly understanding what you're describing. Upon start up on same driveway, is it effortless to shift out of park? Try those tests and see what happens. And don't trust about 95% of what any dealer service advisor tells you...
"effectless to shift OUT of P" you hit the nail in the head. The answer is no. It feels like the shifter is held in place and I have to pry it out of P into reverse. I know that if the parking brake is holding it, shifting out of P should not feel this way.
 
Ok just tried the N option, it worked. Drove up the hill, braked to a stop, foot on the brake, shift to N, apply parking/vice versa, the car stayed still. Then shifted to P. It does require long travel, four clicks is not enough, has to go down to the metal.
Now try R, D, and 2nd.
 
Ok just tried the N option, it worked. Drove up the hill, braked to a stop, foot on the brake, shift to N, apply parking/vice versa, the car stayed still. Then shifted to P. It does require long travel, four clicks is not enough, has to go down to the metal.

This is a habit you should have anyway for automatic vehicles. Foot on service brake, set parking brake, put vehicle in neutral, let off service brake, let car settle on parking brake, then put car in park. It saves any unnecessary stress on transmission pawl (as little as that might be) and is a double check that your parking brake is working.

Toyota trucks never had that great of a parking brake anyway. Our 2001 Sequoia has broken free of its parking brake before, despite being set to full. Luckily it was only into a bush.
 
Per my mechanic (who's familiar with Toyota and very detail oriented, experienced guy) couldn't get my truck on the lift to set the tension, so he taught me a "break in" exercise to practically polish the shoes so they hug the drum surface better (more contact). I'm sure some of you know this trick. Drive forward or backward at very low speed and hover the parking brake in the mid-range of motion, not to near the beginning of depression and not at the bottom, and don't use long travel, just play with the spring action to give the car a little stopping force. At my 2500 mile oil change he will go in and adjust the tension, if I still wanted to.
 
I feel your pain! When I regeared I had to remove the rotor and disassemble the parking brake to displace the rear axle enough to remove the rear differential. I don't recall what I used but it was a PITA to reassemble.
 

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