Painting

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Joined
Jul 15, 2003
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48
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Location
Long Island, NY
I have decided to re-paint the front bib myself and was wondering what would be the best primer to use? I will be painting it with PPG single stage Acrylic Enamel Dune Beige. I am really looking for prepare the surface so I don't have to worry about stone chips or rust!

Thanks!
 
If you are going to blast it and remove any rust, if there is any, or taking it to bare metal somehow, I would get a quality metal etching primer, and a good sealer. PPG stuff is high quality, and the place you are getting the paint from, should not have any problem getting anything else that you may need.

Take your time, and it will turn out very nice.

Good luck!

-Steve
 
remember this though when you paint: the more prep work you do the better it turns out............i have learned that from my experince.........although i think i am going to PC my headlight bezel and my roof along with my front and rear bumpers.............i am going to try and keep the cruiser image with the light colors.....
 
I had my '40 sandblasted, cleaned it with metal prep and used a catalised(sp) urethane primer. It builds and fills and sands easily. Then I finished, after sanding with a catalised acrylic enamel. I like it because it was -not expensive(about $50/gal including hardener) - spottable, for those pesky repair jobs and -polishable, 'cause I painted it in my garage.
Just my opinion.
Ed
 
Im agree with Poser. When I stripped all the paint off my 40, I used a metal etching primer, then aplied a primer sealer, then sprayed the paint, the the clearcoat. It came out very well. Like they said above, prep is key, take your time and it should come out great! BTW, during prep, be sure to clean your metal surfaces before you spray the primer.. I used a denatured alcohol.

Mike
 
if you can't afford to do everything at once, can you wait a long period between the time you prime the truck and apply the paint? I'm thinking that it may take me a lot of time to get all the priming done and this is a daily driver.
 
oh if your gonna do it in the garage make sure ya wet the floor to collect most of the dust in the air so it doesnt end up on the paint job :)
 
pvaman,
You should not wait long after you prime to paint. There is a "time to topcoat" window outlined on the data sheet. On the particular paint that I used, it was between 1 hour and 4 days. After that time, it is suggested that you scuff up the surface and prime again. Although the mechanical adhesion may be good, remember that chemical adhesion is part of the equation also.
A few brief pieces of advice (just my opinion): Use the primer that the topcoat manufacturer recommends (they would have tested it), and if you can't get a data sheet - don't use the paint.

Hope it helps...
 
Ditto the etch primer, it is good stuff. Just one caution about the etch primer, there is a non sanding primer which I found to be a time saver but when you want to get a good smooth surface after priming it does not sand very well and I found it was better to go with the sanding type primer from the beginning. I liked the adherance of the etch primer to the metal so it is worth it I think. My auto painting friend says he uses it on everything he paints.
 

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