Paint type and seam sealer for FJ40 fiberglass top?

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Feb 15, 2012
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Black Diamond, Wa
About to start pulling my hardtop apart to replace the leaky gasket underneath the drip rail.
Going to sand and paint my fiberglass top before re-riveting the top to the drip rail, the top is in decent shape no major gouges or need to re gel coat.

I’ve read a lot of threads on the topic but there doesn’t seem to be too much consensus on what paint to use on a fj40 top.

What primer/ paint system should I use that is best for fiberglass and last longest? I need to be able to get in OEM Cygnus white and shoot with a cheap harbor freight hvlp gun.

What seam sealer is the best to use between the fiberglass and the drip rail? I believe 3m is what I’ve seen used most…

What rivets are best to use for fj40 tops? Size?

Pic of top:
AB145FF2-7626-4C16-BD35-2B98911B5321.jpeg
 
I can't speak with authority as to which products are best, but I used two wet coats of Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer over the freshly sanded fiberglass and steel. 3M self-leveling seam sealer 08307 to fill the channel (two tubes is just about perfect). I shot high-build primer and then block sanded it to get the surface smooth. Another coat of epoxy primer to seal the job, then I'm using base/clear from my local auto paint store.
I used 5/32" aluminum rivets from McMaster-Carr and have a bunch left over if you want to try them. My 1977 top wasn't Cygnus White, but rather a lighter color so I have a fresh quart of Cygnus I could sell cheap. PM if you're interested.
 
I agree with @1MAC process. I think SPI or Tamco can mix Cygnus white in their polyurethane single stage and their epoxy primers are pretty well liked. If you have a Wesco nearby, could try them. If using the harbor freight gun (guessing you’re thinking the $9 purple one) just buy 2. Use one for the epoxy primer then toss and one for the color coat. I used SEM 39387 seam sealer.

I made a rivet squeezer you’re welcome to borrow, would just need to get it across the state.
 
Yes I used aluminum solid rivets as well from McMaster. I made a bucking bar by using the tip of a drill and some other tools to kind of shape a spherical mold. Then the other side I used an air hammer with a cut off chisel. Very low pressure; seemed to work ok.
 

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