packaged unit solar generator setup or DIY builds links (renogy)? (1 Viewer)

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any good links to solar generator setups?
what did you buy? is renogy a good call?
can you buy the packaged unit or the solar panels used?
what other hardware do you need to buy?
what's a decent size for a fan and a fridge?
how did you mount the panels?
any other tips?
where do you put outlets and how did you mount them?
just curious but anyone put heat or AC in their rig? the guys overlanding in their trucks are always putting heat or AC in their builds but it seems kind of interested to me.
any links to good threads on this or good hardware?
thanks

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YouTube has tutorial videos that you can apply it to your biild.
Amazon has Renogy kit. Depending how long you are off the grid, another opgion is a power station. Bluetti power station plus their alternator charger 1 is also another option. Our 80A alternator maybe anemic to be used with bluetti charger 1.
 
YouTube has tutorial videos that you can apply it to your biild.
Amazon has Renogy kit. Depending how long you are off the grid, another opgion is a power station. Bluetti power station plus their alternator charger 1 is also another option. Our 80A alternator maybe anemic to be used with bluetti charger 1.
yeah i just started researching but i didn't get the terminology exactly yet.
power station implies it is a battery? and it charges via AC outlet?
if i add an independent DC to DC (?) solar "alternator charger" i can hook that up between solar panels and the power station and charge the batteries with solar panels?
what do i call a combined unit that has DC to DC generator in it?
why am i calling it a generator? it converts solar DC to 12 V DC or something?
also can i use a second 12 V accessory battery in the engine bay somehow? and like charge that with both the truck alternator and the solar panel? like can i put a second battery in do its charged from the alternator but also hook it up so it would take solar charge? or i should keep solar separate from a second engine bay battery?
 
I have played around with multiple set ups over the years including having a second battery under the hood which charged directly off the alternator via a Blue Seas charging relay. Went from lead acid marine batteries to AGM batteries. Had 1 solar panel on the roof then 2 but as Oscar Wilde once said "Experience is the hardest kind of teacher. It gives you the test first and the lesson afterward."

The lessons I eventually learned are as follows:-
1) Don't install the second battery under the hood. Heat kills batteries. I have mine in the back where it fits nicely in the gap between the drawers and the quarter panel.
2) Do use a DC/DC charger. I have a Renogy 30A that also has the MPPT technology for the solar panel inputs.
3) Use a LiFePO4 Lithium battery (100Ah)
4) With the solar panels there are a few things to think about.
a) The combined power requirements for your accessories (Fridge etc) My Dometic fridge draws roughly 4-5 amps when the compressor is running. Obviously ambient temperature and fridge temp dictate how often the compressor is kicking in.
b) Your camping habits - do you stay in the same campsite for multiple nights? I typically don't which means I technically don't need the solar panels. The LiFePO battery has plenty of capacity to run the fridge all night which is charged pretty quickly with DCDC charge as soon as I am back on the road.
c) A lot of times when I find a campsite, I will park under a tree for shade - solar panels fixed to the roof don't work so good in the shade so maybe think about portable panels.
d) In perfect conditions (clear sky, optimum angles etc.) a 100w panel will generate 8 amps. The reality is typically a lot less which is why I have 2 panels. Normally my fridge is in the truck 24x7 and since I switched over to a DC/DC charger and the LiFePO battery I have never had a flat battery. This was impossible with the AGM & Blue Seas setup.
 
I have played around with multiple set ups over the years including having a second battery under the hood which charged directly off the alternator via a Blue Seas charging relay. Went from lead acid marine batteries to AGM batteries. Had 1 solar panel on the roof then 2 but as Oscar Wilde once said "Experience is the hardest kind of teacher. It gives you the test first and the lesson afterward."

The lessons I eventually learned are as follows:-
1) Don't install the second battery under the hood. Heat kills batteries. I have mine in the back where it fits nicely in the gap between the drawers and the quarter panel.
2) Do use a DC/DC charger. I have a Renogy 30A that also has the MPPT technology for the solar panel inputs.
3) Use a LiFePO4 Lithium battery (100Ah)
4) With the solar panels there are a few things to think about.
a) The combined power requirements for your accessories (Fridge etc) My Dometic fridge draws roughly 4-5 amps when the compressor is running. Obviously ambient temperature and fridge temp dictate how often the compressor is kicking in.
b) Your camping habits - do you stay in the same campsite for multiple nights? I typically don't which means I technically don't need the solar panels. The LiFePO battery has plenty of capacity to run the fridge all night which is charged pretty quickly with DCDC charge as soon as I am back on the road.
c) A lot of times when I find a campsite, I will park under a tree for shade - solar panels fixed to the roof don't work so good in the shade so maybe think about portable panels.
d) In perfect conditions (clear sky, optimum angles etc.) a 100w panel will generate 8 amps. The reality is typically a lot less which is why I have 2 panels. Normally my fridge is in the truck 24x7 and since I switched over to a DC/DC charger and the LiFePO battery I have never had a flat battery. This was impossible with the AGM & Blue Seas setup.
awesome. i appreciate that a lot.
i'll be reading up and trying to strategize.
i've got an email in to renogy.
 
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I have played around with multiple set ups over the years including having a second battery under the hood which charged directly off the alternator via a Blue Seas charging relay. Went from lead acid marine batteries to AGM batteries. Had 1 solar panel on the roof then 2 but as Oscar Wilde once said "Experience is the hardest kind of teacher. It gives you the test first and the lesson afterward."

The lessons I eventually learned are as follows:-
1) Don't install the second battery under the hood. Heat kills batteries. I have mine in the back where it fits nicely in the gap between the drawers and the quarter panel.
2) Do use a DC/DC charger. I have a Renogy 30A that also has the MPPT technology for the solar panel inputs.
3) Use a LiFePO4 Lithium battery (100Ah)
4) With the solar panels there are a few things to think about.
a) The combined power requirements for your accessories (Fridge etc) My Dometic fridge draws roughly 4-5 amps when the compressor is running. Obviously ambient temperature and fridge temp dictate how often the compressor is kicking in.
b) Your camping habits - do you stay in the same campsite for multiple nights? I typically don't which means I technically don't need the solar panels. The LiFePO battery has plenty of capacity to run the fridge all night which is charged pretty quickly with DCDC charge as soon as I am back on the road.
c) A lot of times when I find a campsite, I will park under a tree for shade - solar panels fixed to the roof don't work so good in the shade so maybe think about portable panels.
d) In perfect conditions (clear sky, optimum angles etc.) a 100w panel will generate 8 amps. The reality is typically a lot less which is why I have 2 panels. Normally my fridge is in the truck 24x7 and since I switched over to a DC/DC charger and the LiFePO battery I have never had a flat battery. This was impossible with the AGM & Blue Seas setup.
also so this for a controller
and this for a generator
and a
12V 100Ah LiFePo4 battery
and some portable solar panels?
 
I just finished installing up my solar charging setup.

LIttle history.
I purchased a Renogy 200W solar blanket with N-type cells in July. My original goal was to use the solar blanket to charge my Ecoflow River while stationary at camp. The solar blanket and Ecoflow worked great.

Fast forward four weeks later and my alternator starts to die. My starting battery was dead but I typically self jump using my house battery. Unfortunately, the bad alternator left me with two batteries below charge. I replaced the alternator but also decided to add a Victron 100/30 MPPT charge controller to the truck to charge the house battery should this ever happen again.

We went to the beach today and I was able to test out the setup. I unfolded the solar blanket on my roof rack and connected it to the MPPT. Even with slightly overcast skies, the house battery was getting 80W while still running my fridge and charging a phone and tablet.

My setup is probably complicated.
Starting battery is connected to house battery through National Luna battery controller.
House battery has 2AWG cable run to the rear of the truck.
Power is divided through distribution blocks to the following devices:
45A Anderson plug
Cig lighter
USB/voltmeter
Remote relay
Solar charge controller.

The solar charge controller feeds energy back into the system to keep the house battery topped off. I can connect the Ecoflow to the cig lighter and charge it as well if needed.

I like the Victron app.
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Victron 100/30 MPPT mounted on a DIY QPM (quarter panel mount)
1757822193161.webp


Solar blanket testing in the yard
1757822232398.webp
 
For auxiliary power for what I call “parked power” (power needs with the truck engine off) you currently have 3 popular options.

1. Buy an all in one unit “Power Station” “Solar Generator” like a Goal Zero, Jackery, Bluetti, Ecoflow etc

PROS
Easy and cheapest option
Portable so can be used in other vehicles, at home etc.
Warranty most likely

CONS
No ability to troubleshoot operation issues (if something isn’t working you have limited to no way to fix it without calling support)
Limited or finite number and wattage of 12v outlets
Not easy to expand the power throughout the vehicle (power is where the box is located only)
Lower specs regarding operating temp than a similar sized dual battery setup
Low amperage max allowed in DC
Prioritizes 120v inverter use, with a lot of the cost and space of the power station being taken up by that even though car camping components use DC power more often than 120v
Most don’t have any Bluetooth monitoring requiring you to access the unit display to see status
Large unit for it’s relative watt hours
Needs to be secured in the vehicle and takes up cargo space


2. Build or have someone install a system mounted in the vehicle. Your classic “dual battery setup”

PROS
Custom to what you want
Fully able to trouble shoot any problem
Highest output and performance possible with proper components (amps, charging, output, max and minimum temps)
Expandable and Futureproof
Most have or can add Bluetooth monitoring so easy to see battery status

CONS
The most expensive option
Labor intensive installation typically throughout the vehicle
A semi permanent install, so not mobile or portable in any way
If done correctly, can take up minimal space in the vehicle
Certain setups can allow you to self jump your vehicle when your start battery dies or fails
Certain setups can double your capacity for winching and other very high amp needs

3. Build your own Portable Power Station

PROS
Cheaper than a built in system
Portable
Can be built to have the same high output and performance of a built in system
Able to troubleshoot in the field
Minimal wiring running through the vehicle
Allows for high amp DC vs a PPS
Most have a Bluetooth option for easy monitoring

CONS
Takes up cargo space more than a built in system
Most difficult option if you want inverter power
 
I just finished installing up my solar charging setup.

LIttle history.
I purchased a Renogy 200W solar blanket with N-type cells in July. My original goal was to use the solar blanket to charge my Ecoflow River while stationary at camp. The solar blanket and Ecoflow worked great.

Fast forward four weeks later and my alternator starts to die. My starting battery was dead but I typically self jump using my house battery. Unfortunately, the bad alternator left me with two batteries below charge. I replaced the alternator but also decided to add a Victron 100/30 MPPT charge controller to the truck to charge the house battery should this ever happen again.

We went to the beach today and I was able to test out the setup. I unfolded the solar blanket on my roof rack and connected it to the MPPT. Even with slightly overcast skies, the house battery was getting 80W while still running my fridge and charging a phone and tablet.

My setup is probably complicated.
Starting battery is connected to house battery through National Luna battery controller.
House battery has 2AWG cable run to the rear of the truck.
Power is divided through distribution blocks to the following devices:
45A Anderson plug
Cig lighter
USB/voltmeter
Remote relay
Solar charge controller.

The solar charge controller feeds energy back into the system to keep the house battery topped off. I can connect the Ecoflow to the cig lighter and charge it as well if needed.

I like the Victron app.
View attachment 3991213

Victron 100/30 MPPT mounted on a DIY QPM (quarter panel mount)
View attachment 3991214

Solar blanket testing in the yard
View attachment 3991215
correct me if i don't get this right.
you used to have what you are calling a "house battery" which i guess is in your engine bay. i guess this was charged up before you left and then by solar power? the way this gets charged is by connecting the renogy blanket panels through a "MPPT" that lets the cells charge the house battery?
is this called a "DC to DC generator"? i get confused on this part.
then after having a failed alternator you went ahead and added some kind of isolator or controller between the starter battery and the house battery so when the alternator is working you always know the house battery is fully charged?
where is the house battery again? in the engine bay?
 
My set up for what I need is simple. My average outing is 3 days and the longest was 8 days. I have a 100w hard panel controlled by the mppt that plugs to the aux 100ah lithium battery, that charges my fridge and my accessory lights, gmrs, fan, electric blanket....ect. The aux battery is stored inside my 80 and I also bring my Wagan tech power station for my air fryer and as a charging station. I can plug the solar/mppt either to my aux battery or my power station while driving or when parked. My fridge is plugged into the cigarette port when driving to our destination and plugs into my aux battery when stationary. I also pack my fold-able 100w panel as a back up.
My main battery is only to start my rig and for my winch. No lights or charger of any sort is connected to it.

@Shoredreamer has a killer set up that he uses for his microwave, toaster, coffee maker for days...

It all depends on your intent

Screenshot_20250913-211316(1).webp
 
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For auxiliary power for what I call “parked power” (power needs with the truck engine off) you currently have 3 popular options.

1. Buy an all in one unit “Power Station” “Solar Generator” like a Goal Zero, Jackery, Bluetti, Ecoflow etc

PROS
Easy and cheapest option
Portable so can be used in other vehicles, at home etc.
Warranty most likely

CONS
No ability to troubleshoot operation issues (if something isn’t working you have limited to no way to fix it without calling support)
Limited or finite number and wattage of 12v outlets
Not easy to expand the power throughout the vehicle (power is where the box is located only)
Lower specs regarding operating temp than a similar sized dual battery setup
Low amperage max allowed in DC
Prioritizes 120v inverter use, with a lot of the cost and space of the power station being taken up by that even though car camping components use DC power more often than 120v
Most don’t have any Bluetooth monitoring requiring you to access the unit display to see status
Large unit for it’s relative watt hours
Needs to be secured in the vehicle and takes up cargo space


2. Build or have someone install a system mounted in the vehicle. Your classic “dual battery setup”

PROS
Custom to what you want
Fully able to trouble shoot any problem
Highest output and performance possible with proper components (amps, charging, output, max and minimum temps)
Expandable and Futureproof
Most have or can add Bluetooth monitoring so easy to see battery status

CONS
The most expensive option
Labor intensive installation typically throughout the vehicle
A semi permanent install, so not mobile or portable in any way
If done correctly, can take up minimal space in the vehicle
Certain setups can allow you to self jump your vehicle when your start battery dies or fails
Certain setups can double your capacity for winching and other very high amp needs

3. Build your own Portable Power Station

PROS
Cheaper than a built in system
Portable
Can be built to have the same high output and performance of a built in system
Able to troubleshoot in the field
Minimal wiring running through the vehicle
Allows for high amp DC vs a PPS
Most have a Bluetooth option for easy monitoring

CONS
Takes up cargo space more than a built in system
Most difficult option if you want inverter power
thanks man. a couple things i am still trying to sort out.
does the package unit in 1 imply - well does it imply there is either a "DC to DC generator in the unit to get the solar cells to charge the package unit (which i guess i call a "portable solar generator"?
where or when is an inverter in 1, 2 or 3? only when you have a female AC outlet for appliances that use a make AC plug? i don't get this.
also - well could i mount a battery in the engine bay - well i guess the problem with trying to get solar charged battery on the engine bay is you ideally want a deep cell or whatever LiFePo battery for an appliance battery? or for a battery that will be charged by solar?
and does this conflict with the fact that my starter battery is AGM lead acid? like you normally want a second engine bay battery that is also charged by the alternator and also able to jump the truck - well you want it or need it to be the same kind as the starter battery? or is that not the case?
-
> i mean it would be kind of nice to mount a battery in the engine bay, have it charged up with the alternator, run minimal wiring to outlets in the back, and just open the hood and plug in a solar fir when you park and are not charging it with the alternator? or is that scenario a no go?
 
My set up for what I need is simple. My average outing is 3 days and the longest was 8 days. I have a 100w hard panel controlled by the mppt that plugs to the aux 100ah lithium battery, that charges my fridge and my accessory lights, gmrs, fan, electric blanket....ect. The aux battery is stored inside my 80 and I also bring my Wagan tech power station for my air fryer and as a charging station. I can plug the solar/mppt either to my aux battery or my power station while driving or when parked. My fridge is plugged into the cigarette port when driving to our destination and plugs into my aux battery when stationary. I also pack my fold-able 100w panel as a back up.
My main battery is only to start my rig and for my winch. No lights or charger of any sort is connected to it.

@Shoredreamer has a killer set up that he uses for his microwave, toaster, coffee maker for days...

It all depends on your intent

View attachment 3991281
so correct me if i am missing anything - you have a lipo battery somewhere in the back of your truck hard wired to various female outlets? it's also wired to an MPPT? what does an MPPT do anyway?

do you have a DC to DC generator somewhere? this item confuses me because i don't know what it does or where it goes...

and when you want to charge the battery you turn the MPPT switch to charge?

and you also have a - well a proprietary solar generator that you plug things into as well and which is charged via the fixed solar panel independent of the lipo battery?
 
I built a sleeping platform and placed the Aux battery there. The mppt harvest the sun power from the panel into useable current. The output of the mppt plugs into my Aux battery and Aux output to my 1000w inverter. When my aux battery is 100% charged I then unplug it from my aux battery and into my power station.

Screenshot_20250913-215711(1).webp
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20250913_220206.webp
 
Im about to install a secondary battery so I did some research and I think I can help.

First of all you need to decided if you want to run a second battery (also called a house battery), or if you just want a way to charge your main battery (starter battery) with a solar panel.
If you have the budget and space, I would go with the first choice and get a secondary battery.

You need now to decide if you want to mount the battery in the engine bay or somewhere inside the truck (most likely the trunk in that case). If you decide you wan the battery inside the car, I would 100% go with a LiFeP4 battery, as they are much lighter, getting pretty cheap and you can get full capacity out of it. Otherwise, if it is going in the engine bay, you need another type of battery as LiFePo4 are not recommended for under the hood installation.

Now, how to charge that secondary battery?
In my case, and most ppl’s case, you want a way to charge it from your alternator, and here is where your DC to DC charger shows up, it takes power from your alternator (via the starter battery) to charge your house battery. The beauty of the DC to DC charger is that it can charge different types of batteries, meaning you can have different chemistries between your starter battery and house battery. Most (to my knowledge) DC to DV chargers also act as a battery isolator, making sure your house battery only gets power from your starter battery when the vehicle is running, that way you dont end up with a dead starter battery.

Now, to get power from the sun. You want solar panels to capture the energy and some device to make that into usable energy for your battery. There is where the MPPT comes in, it is the middle man between the solar panels and your battery.
Some DC to DC chargers are combined with a MPPT Redarc BCDC charger comes to mind.

You have a means to store energy (batteries) and you have a mean to charge it (DC to DC chargers and/or solar). Now how to use that power. And that is up to you. Install any kind of DC outlets you need. Cigarettes lighter style, USB style, Anderson Powerpole style, SAE style, you get the idea.

And an extra add on, if you need AC power (110v like your house outlets) you also need to install a inverter (changes DC power into AC)

That is the basics of it, and Im by no means an expert on electricity. So if anyone smarter than me (no hard to find those) slop any bad info I gave please chime in!
 
I built a sleeping platform and placed the Aux battery there. The mppt harvest the sun power from the panel into useable current. The output of the mppt plugs into my Aux battery and Aux output to my 1000w inverter. When my aux battery is 100% charged I then unplug it from my aux battery and into my power station.

View attachment 3991290View attachment 3991291View attachment 3991292View attachment 3991298
thanks man. so it's fixed 100 Watt roof mounted solar panels - Renogy Wanderer (MPPT) - 100 Amp Hour LiPo Battery - 1000W Inverter (some brand and specs) - and you have some fixed mounted female Aux outlets somewhere?

then you also have a packaged Wagan solar generator (which must have a built in MPPT and Inverter?) and you have backup foldable solar panels?

so you charge the LiPo battery before you leave home and you plug the fridge into the cigarette outlet (starter battery and alternator)? then when you get where you are going you plug it into the LiPo. does that sound right?

any pics of the battery or inverter or mounted plugs (if any)? or i guess i could build my own box?
 

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