P0420 Code Solved, insights gained (4 Viewers)

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Posting this in case it helps somebody else down the line. I've been chasing down an intermittent P0420 code since I purchased my 05 a couple months ago. Thinking maybe this was the last straw that caused the PO to trade it in which is fine by me.

There are a whole bunch of threads on this code but it can be caused by so many different things that I figured I'd let you know how I approached it, using Techstream and some common sense. Techstream is pretty crucial for troubleshooting on this issue, otherwise you'll be flying blind.

This code basically says that the Bank 1 (driver's side) Catalytic Converter is operating below the pre-established efficiency threshold. As I understand it that can mean 3 things: 1)Cat is actually bad, huge expense 2)Post-Cat 02 sensor wonky 3)Something upstream is out of whack and giving the cat a situation that it can't deal with (running excessively rich, etc.)

Using Techstream's live engine data feed I was able to determine a couple things, and luckily I only had the Bank 1 code so I had Bank 2 as a "control" to compare against (this is key).

1. Fuel trims were consistent between banks and seemed normal
2. Pre-cat 02 sensor voltages were pretty consistent between banks
3. Bank 2 post-cat sensor was dead steady but the Bank 1 post-cat sensor was all over the place

Then, the visual inspection of the post-cat B1 sensor and replacement. I had a feeling it might be a brutal process due to rust-belt corrosion but it wasn't that bad. Both nuts that secure the sensor flange to the bung on the pipe were completely dissolved, just dust. All that remained on the studs was some remnant threading which I cleaned off using a M8x1.25 die. The sensor was actually loose in the housing and what was the old gasket for it was basically dissolved. Clearly the sensor was, itself, an air leak and my guess is that threw off the readings. I picked up the Denso sensor at Napa, it was in stock for $89 and included the gasket. With no rust, replacing the sensor would have taken 10 mins. It took me an hour to clean off the flange mating surface, upside down under the car using a mirror to check progress since the bung is at the 12:00 position on the pipe. Rust raining down onto my eyes, all that good stuff.

After replacement Techstream reported the post-cat B1 sensor voltage as dead steady and consistent with the B2 side. Pretty sure I solved the problem, but time will tell. My guess is that based on how my old sensor was so rusty that it was its own air leak, I'm not the only one who will come across this at some point.
 
Great troubleshooting and write up! Storing this for future use.
 
Yes you have probably fixed this, as the O2 sensor reads oxygen so the air leak was probably the cause. If the post sensor readings fluctuate like the pre cat sensor then either the cat has disintegrated or its drawing a oxygen reading from elsewhere. An oscilloscope would give you a more accurate reading but as I remember the diagnostics machine would give a flat reading of about 0.7v to 0.8 for a good sensor
 
I had a similar issue - the nuts completely rusted off and the sensor was hanging by friction, the gasket was gone. A o2 sensor gasket for $6 from the local foreign car parts place and a couple of nuts I had in the garage and it has been fine for a year.

On a related topic, I'm always amazed by how many people post on the internet looking for help without doing a visual inspection and proper troubleshooting. It's nice to see you did it the good old fashioned way (and took the time to post the fix to help others in the future).
 
Speaking of nuts- I used regular nuts because that's what I had. Do you think I need lock nuts in this application?
 
I wouldn't worry about it...

Or maybe it would be better to say that I didn't use locking nuts, and I'm not worrying about it. It'll be pretty easy to swap some in later if these fail, and I didn't have any handy.
 
Stainless steel nuts would help for the next time. Locking nuts with a nylon insert would not work. It's too hot there.
 
I would keep the old sensor as a spare, as it was probably working as it should, it was just reading the ambient air from being loose, they always come in handy to aid diagnosing in the future. It's probably the same as the pre cat sensor with maybe a different length lead so its a great addition to the toolbox.
 
Sounds like a few of you have some rust issues while this issue code was present...

I, too, had this code thrown intermittently. However, two mechanics later (one indie and one Lexus Service) the issue was determined to be a cat that was burnt completely through. Bank 1 as well. Indie mech estimated a $4k repair bill (!!!), inclusive of both cats and 4 O2 sensors. Why he went overkill on this recommendation is beyond me, but I feel he saw the California plates and a Lexus badge and saw $$$. This prompted me to get the second opinion from genuine Lexus Service. There the issue was determined to be just the one burnt cat on Bank 1, estimate for repair at just under $1,500 inclusive of labor AND parts. Needless to say, chose Lexus Service to administer the issue as well as baseline the rig (timing belt, water pump, fluids all around) as I had just bought it 2 months prior in SoCal from a PO with spotty records and mileage is nearly at 200k. Haven't driven it all too much since having the cat replaced, but it's not thrown the dash lights/code since.

I now have a genuine Mongoose Pro 2 MFC (green cable) from DrewTech and a Techstream sub with latest software version, so if this pops up again, I'll be sure to follow up. Glad your issue was resolved easily with less expense, but for some (like me), it may legitimately be a failed cat.
 
I had the nuts rust off mine. Hauling my boat one day and it shot the oxygen sensor right out of the exhaust. Suddenly got real loud and saw the sensor hanging when I got out to inspect.
My CEL had come on earlier in the trip.

John
 
Same issue, same fix. Old gasket came off relatively cleanly, 2" lift helped with access. Thanks for posting @m3fan!
 
2004 100. P0430 Bank 2 Cat efficiency code. Threw code 2 weeks ago on long hiway trip. VSS, VCC and Check Engine lights all on. Cleared code with OBDII bluetooth tool using Torque Pro. Threw same code again last night after 5 hrs. drive from Tahoe. Really bummed as I replaced both upstream sensors with Denso OEM replacement O2 sensors before the trip, based on what I could glean from several threads on Mud. Did a little more careful monitoring on the way home last night while the wife drove and observed that Bank 2 downstream sensor was a bit more jumpy than Bank 1 downstream sensor. Removed downstream Bank 2 sensor today, minimal rust (12MM box wrench and needle nose pliers for plug). Tested at 13ohms from pin 1 to pin 2 and nada on any of the other pins. I went back to then test the upstream sensors and got the same result. I'm following the FSM test procedure for O2 sensors so thought I should get 10K ohms or higher between pins 1 and 4 but same result as downstream. I realize the downstream is not heated (I think?) but expected the upstreams to show ohms between pins 1 and 4. This may be my lack of understanding of the Volt meter.

Oh, well,I bit the bullet today and bought Denso downstream sensor and replaced (thought about swapping but just turned 200K this past weekend). Conducted a hard drive with hills - no codes. Fingers are crossed. Will replace Bank 1 downstream sensor tomorrow. Will report back after another trip to Tahoe this weekend if problem is fixed (or not). Really hoping to not have to buy new cats.
 
Hey, just wanted to chime in. I have an 05 LX and lately the check engine light came on but it would go away and then come back so I did some research and it pointed to the gas cap. Kind of made sense so I got a new gas cap and the damn check engine light came back so I bought a code reader and it came back with P0420. I did more research and everyone pointed towards a bad cat or 02 sensor. Seeing how an 02 sensor is about $55 it made perfect sense to try that first. I replaced the downstream 02 sensor and have so far driver about 200 miles and all is good. Interesting part is that my original o2 sensor did not have any nuts on it, not sure how it stayed on all this time. At least it was easy to get it off, one hammer hit. Also, the part number on the c0 sensor I could not find but I went with Denso 234-4154 which was referenced a lot on ih8mud. Anyway, just wanted to let you guys know that changing the downstream 02 sensor fixed my p0420 issue

PXL_20210220_170158956.jpg
 
Followed this thread and ended up replacing the down stream O2 sensors. Fix worked for about 500 miles and then the P0420 code resurfaced. Going to recheck fuel trims today and see but at this point I'm thinking at 276k miles that the cats are probably actually bad. Anyone have this code resurface and determine the cats were just actually shot?
 
Followed this thread and ended up replacing the down stream O2 sensors. Fix worked for about 500 miles and then the P0420 code resurfaced. Going to recheck fuel trims today and see but at this point I'm thinking at 276k miles that the cats are probably actually bad. Anyone have this code resurface and determine the cats were just actually shot?
I ran P0420/P0430 codes for 5 years/50miles.

Decided to clean my cats this year in the oxalic/citric acid bath method. Replaced 4x o2 sensors and all gaskets. No more codes, techstream values show healthy (ish) cats. $200 for the clean instead of $2k plus for cats.
 

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