P0353 - Ignotion coil C (1 Viewer)

[klimraamkosie]

Had stuttering/rough idle, only code was this one but it said "historical". As a newbie on the GX I thought it wasn't the issue and it didn't show anything else.

Cleared codes and the issue went away (but the historical code remained). Checked techstream, was expecting more codes, nothing.

Issue came back (stutter/rough idle) and it's sticking. Wiggled coil pack wires and push in, issue is gone. But I'm assuming it'll came back soon.

So, which is coil C?

 

[klimraamkosie]

Also, should I get OEM or can I pick one up locally.

Should I replace the spark plug at the same time? (I just had them all done a few months ago.)

 

[Rednexus]

See below:

Code P0353 (Definition, Causes, Fixes)

Find out what the P0353 code means, what triggers it, how it’s fixed, and the answers to some related FAQs.

www.repairsmith.com

Being that you recently had the plugs done and the code went away after wiggling the connector, I'm betting the connector wasn't seated exactly right. You could unhook the connector and add some dielectric grease to it to improve the connecting a bit.

If it happens again I'd swap the No. 3 coil for a different cylinder (say No. 5), and see if you get the same trouble code for the new cylinder. If it does move to the new cylinder, get a new OEM Toyota coil. If it stays at No. 3, it's probably something in the physical connector/wiring causing the issue (I would splice in a new connector at that point).

 

[r2m]

Regarding purchasing OEM over aftermarket, my general rule of thumb is if the aftermarket is about 50% less $$ than OEM, I'll probably go with the aftermarket.
If it's much closer to OEM price, then I'd just assume spend the little extra and get a Lexus part.

 

[klimraamkosie]

Regarding purchasing OEM over aftermarket, my general rule of thumb is if the aftermarket is about 50% less $$ than OEM, I'll probably go with the aftermarket.
If it's much closer to OEM price, then I'd just assume spend the little extra and get a Lexus part.

Yeah it's not even close to 50%...

 

[klimraamkosie]

See below:

Code P0353 (Definition, Causes, Fixes)

Find out what the P0353 code means, what triggers it, how it’s fixed, and the answers to some related FAQs.

www.repairsmith.com

Being that you recently had the plugs done and the code went away after wiggling the connector, I'm betting the connector wasn't seated exactly right. You could unhook the connector and add some dielectric grease to it to improve the connecting a bit.

If it happens again I'd swap the No. 3 coil for a different cylinder (say No. 5), and see if you get the same trouble code for the new cylinder. If it does move to the new cylinder, get a new OEM Toyota coil. If it stays at No. 3, it's probably something in the physical connector/wiring causing the issue (I would splice in a new connector at that point).

You know, I ordered one the same day I made this post and simply touched all of the packs and they're all still fine.

I figured C = 3. But I still don't know which it is. Is there a diagram or some industry standard rule of thumb I'm not aware of? (And I really tried looking).

 

[Rednexus]

You know, I ordered one the same day I made this post and simply touched all of the packs and they're all still fine.

I figured C = 3. But I still don't know which it is. Is there a diagram or some industry standard rule of thumb I'm not aware of? (And I really tried looking).

Should be in the FSM. There might be an industry standard for numbering cylinders, but I'm not sure. Looks like this will work for a 1UR:

Toyota Workshop Manuals > Tundra 4WD V8-4.6L (1UR-FE) (2010) > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component Information > Specifications

Tundra 4WD V8-4.6L (1UR-FE) (2010) > Toyota Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component Information > Specifications

workshop-manuals.com