Overlooked interior power source in LX? (6 Viewers)

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tbisaacs

It's basically a Land Cruiser
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Like most of you I have ditched the third row in my LX. It occurred to me that because my seats can be operated with the truck off, those suckers gotta hot all the time. Yep!

777AE8DD-5A8F-4DFE-99C3-C3B7607EE92C.jpeg


(Mind the mud)

My truck is a non-premium package so I only have semi-powered functionality:

A283D633-C29F-49E3-942D-A5EA7EA4E2F4.jpeg


And according to my owners manual they are fused at 5A:

979BBBE7-F203-4CC5-A114-C4E77C60FE27.jpeg


It seems like these could be used for interior lights, phone chargers etc in the back.

What would you use them for?
 
I wondered about this...while a was tucking them away under the carpet. :) Good to know.
 
Like most of you I have ditched the third row in my LX. It occurred to me that because my seats can be operated with the truck off, those suckers gotta hot all the time. Yep!

View attachment 2377072

(Mind the mud)

My truck is a non-premium package so I only have semi-powered functionality:

View attachment 2377062

And according to my owners manual they are fused at 5A:

View attachment 2377075

It seems like these could be used for interior lights, phone chargers etc in the back.

What would you use them for?
Great find @tbisaacs !

While I don’t have a LX, I love hearing when someone has that “wait a minute, just maybe this could work” moment, and then it does.

Im sure this will help crest a whole realm of possibilities for the at least the LX guys, maybe even the LC guys if the wire harnesses are the same.
 
Great for always ON USB source but 5 AMPs (60 Watts) would be bit low for ARB fridge which pulls around 7 Amps with compressor running. I believe that is the main purpose many like to have DC socket in the back.

Just an idea - on the opposite side (like in my US LX) you may find 100W AC plug from the inverter. If that is the case, Inverter is behind that panel and just wonder if DC wire to the inverter is thicker and circuit could be rated higher, like at 10 AMps fuse. Not sure as my manual is in the car.
I was wondering because non - US versions have 12V DC socket in the same location. Same wiring harness is likely being used for all versions and I would imagine DC socket rating on the non-US models to be 10 AMP minimum. In such case tapping into DC wire going to the inverter maybe a better option.

Some are successful running ARB fridge over AC plug but at 100W AC rating that is also on the low side for the fridge. Unlikely that circuit is Always ON but running fridge with engine off may not be a very good idea unless you could throw 100W solar panel on the roof and sun is shining. You would likely need second battery to have enough reserve to run your fridge overnight.
 
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I think you might be able to swap OEM parts (inverter & 12 v plug)...no promises, because I haven't tried it:

8553560110 - 12v accessory power outlet cover
8553060390 - 12v accessory power outlet

As for the wiring...well, I haven't got in there, but I'd bet there's a pretty simple way to wire it up with a multimeter and a few minutes. Not sure on the wiring gauge, but I assume (hope) it's not a show stopper...The inverter must pull more amperage than 10A. I think it's 15A.
 
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I’d love to figure out how to make that inverter power source to just be controlled by the dash switch and not ignition. For example have it switched on when truck was off.
 
For some reason I thought I saw that the third row were fused on both sides at 30A each, while the inverter was at 15A. I'll need to see if I can find the resource online where I read it.
 
I’d love to figure out how to make that inverter power source to just be controlled by the dash switch and not ignition. For example have it switched on when truck was off.

If you're ever in the market for a switch controller...

I use my SwitchPros in just that way manage power to charge various accessories and Weboost cellular booster. Could likely tap in to manage the inverter too. I have my rear power setup to come on with ignition. Yet it's easy to override and turn on independent of ignition. Best thing is that I can manage it remotely via BT in my cell phone which shows battery voltage and ability to turn on/off. Great when I'm in my camper or tent.
 
For some reason I thought I saw that the third row were fused on both sides at 30A each, while the inverter was at 15A. I'll need to see if I can find the resource online where I read it.
Very likely it is a momentary signal (soft) switch, possibly at 3.3 or 5v.
Would not be shocked if it is digital on newer models - like a CAN command. So you would need some compatible digital switching hardware to override when ignition is not ON.
 
Great for always ON USB source but 5 AMPs (60 Watts) would be bit low for ARB fridge which pulls around 7 Amps with compressor running. I believe that is the main purpose many like to have DC socket in the back.

Just an idea - on the opposite side (like in my US LX) you may find 100W AC plug from the inverter. If that is the case, Inverter is behind that panel and just wonder if DC wire to the inverter is thicker and circuit could be rated higher, like at 10 AMps fuse. Not sure as my manual is in the car.
I was wondering because non - US versions have 12V DC socket in the same location. Same wiring harness is likely being used for all versions and I would imagine DC socket rating on the non-US models to be 10 AMP minimum. In such case tapping into DC wire going to the inverter maybe a better option.

Some are successful running ARB fridge over AC plug but at 100W AC rating that is also on the low side for the fridge. Unlikely that circuit is Always ON but running fridge with engine off may not be a very good idea unless you could throw 100W solar panel on the roof and sun is shining. You would likely need second battery to have enough reserve to run your fridge overnight.
Shouldn’t there be 5 amps to both plugs? Parallel both plugs and wouldn’t you have 10 amps? I’m not sure how the wiring is run, two independent feeds or one with a “y” at a junction?
 
The following webpage tells me 30A for each 3rd Seat on the 2008-2015 LX570, on "Passenger Compartment Fuse Box #2":


I think it's fair to assume this is correct, since the internet never lies. Fuses #1 and #4 on said panel.
 
The following webpage tells me 30A for each 3rd Seat on the 2008-2015 LX570, on "Passenger Compartment Fuse Box #2":


I think it's fair to assume this is correct, since the internet never lies. Fuses #1 and #4 on said panel.
That appears to be correct as seats are likely motor driven and 5AMP would not be enough to run a motor under load. 30 AMP would require 10AWG wire so that circuit should be fairly easy to identify,
 

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