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- #21
half k cruiser said:
Any recommendation on a nice one?
Thanks
Overheating mystery (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter stuntmanmusic
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Any recommendation on a nice one?
Thanks
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- #22
NLXTACY said:
Alright alright easy now.
This is all new to me.
Even using a forum is new to me. We all have to start somewhere.
Thanks for the advice!
All parts are new. No used parts.
Fan clutch is regular metal not blue, looks super hefty though.
Since I'm a newbie in mechanical I can only assume that my mechanic whom again, I now really wants to help, has installed nothing less than what he knows for sure will be what fixes the problem not worsens it.
Again thanks for the advice.
I can certainly understand how a pro can easily lose patience from a newbie post.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
No problem. Just realize that at the end of the day we are all trying to help not hurt.
Richard bought them new or you bought them new?
Look at the hub, the part that connects to the water pump. Its the closest to the block. Is it blue, black or silver (aluminum). If its aluminum then its most likely an aftermarket such as Hayden. This could be the start of the issues.
Richard, as much as I love him, will use what he is comfortable using and what is available. He does not automatically use OEM unless you, as the customer, says "I only want OEM Toyota parts please". Then he will do so. You want OEM, there is very little discussion to the contrary.
I'm definitely no pro. I'm an electronic lazy-boy quarterback, e-badass with more time to type a response to stupid forum then I do to do real work. But I am trying to help.
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- #24
NLXTACY said:
Awesome! Thanks man. Now we're in the same page and thanks for the insight in rich. Now what in the world do I do with all these parts that were installed if rich in fact did not use oem : (
That sucks.
I would first install an accurate temp gauge.
Second install an OEM thermostat AFTER testing it in the kitchen.
Third install a new OEM rad cap. (Aftermarket is usually the wrong pressure rating).
Perhaps change the belts for good measure and I'll doubt you'll have anymore issues.
Oh yeah, also make sure the splash pan is installed (it optimizes airflow and therefore cooling efficiency).
Good luck!
Second install an OEM thermostat AFTER testing it in the kitchen.
Third install a new OEM rad cap. (Aftermarket is usually the wrong pressure rating).
Perhaps change the belts for good measure and I'll doubt you'll have anymore issues.
Oh yeah, also make sure the splash pan is installed (it optimizes airflow and therefore cooling efficiency).
Good luck!
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- #26
rolliges said:
Thank you noted!
I read this about the splash pan in another thread, got one, and put it on (missing from the PO). I have not noticed a change in temps for either engine or intake via the scangauge, though I usually see engine temps 186-190F, maybe 193 uphill with the air on.
Maybe the pan does something, nice to cover the hoses/belts if nothing else, but I'd put that at the bottom of the list and get the real issue ironed out first, it will stay in the right temperature range without the pan.
KOSO makes an excellent digital gauge. I intalled one in my 94, there is a writeup here https://www.google.com/url?q=https:...ds-cse&usg=AFQjCNFlXqbOP2okzQOriM6Vk7dAV6O2cA
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- #29
half k cruiser said:
Very cool. What is the temp I should be looking for on my 94 80series once I install this temp gauge Your same rig!
OP - do you know for a fact that he pressure tested the cooling system? This involves putting an adapter on the radiator fill and pressurizing the system (engine off) and letting it sit for a period of time. Any leaking down indicates that there's a problem. My bet is that the HG is getting ready to fail. Under mild load the gasket holds but once the engine starts working, the gasket starts to leak and you get the resulting spike in coolant temp. Combustion gases are getting into the coolant and superheating it.
You can throw parts at it all day long, but nothing will overcome a bad head gasket.
Your '94 should run about 190f. On my '94, 195f is just a click under the half way mark on the stock gauge. 200 is right in the middle. I have a vortec motor that is OBD2 compliant so I get my numbers from a scan gauge that's hard mounted in the truck.
You can throw parts at it all day long, but nothing will overcome a bad head gasket.
Your '94 should run about 190f. On my '94, 195f is just a click under the half way mark on the stock gauge. 200 is right in the middle. I have a vortec motor that is OBD2 compliant so I get my numbers from a scan gauge that's hard mounted in the truck.
Wouldnt you need to have an OEM rad cap or one at the right pressure setting in order to start comparing normal temps?
Others far smarter than me have stated a normal temp RANGE from 190 or so up to around 205/210F!
And what? AC cuts out around 217F IIRC.
I agree that the leak down test is a good idea.
Others far smarter than me have stated a normal temp RANGE from 190 or so up to around 205/210F!
And what? AC cuts out around 217F IIRC.
I agree that the leak down test is a good idea.
First make sure that your cooling system is full.
As others have said, check to make sure your temps are accurate. You can get an infrared digital thermometer pretty cheap, or borrow someones and aim it at the coolant neck coming off the top of the head on the drivers side when it is hot (make sure you get the one with the laser sight). When the needle is creeping up, pull over, pop the hood, and immediately check the temp with the gun. Or install a new gauge. I used Glowshift and have been very happy.
Are you losing any coolant mysteriously? Is your overflow bottle overflowing when driving? Check out my problem I had here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/592234-coolant-temperature-very-hot-while-towing.html I was convinced it was not my head gasket, only to finally figure out that it was. Hope its not for your sake though.
As others have said, check to make sure your temps are accurate. You can get an infrared digital thermometer pretty cheap, or borrow someones and aim it at the coolant neck coming off the top of the head on the drivers side when it is hot (make sure you get the one with the laser sight). When the needle is creeping up, pull over, pop the hood, and immediately check the temp with the gun. Or install a new gauge. I used Glowshift and have been very happy.
Are you losing any coolant mysteriously? Is your overflow bottle overflowing when driving? Check out my problem I had here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/592234-coolant-temperature-very-hot-while-towing.html I was convinced it was not my head gasket, only to finally figure out that it was. Hope its not for your sake though.
A radiator cap is a radiator cap in my opinion as long as they are in proper working order. I have run OEM Toyota caps, and Stant caps, and have never seen a difference on either of my Toyota's. They both release at 13 psi. They both allow flow back into the radiator when cooling down. And they both seem to last the same length of time. Also the psi in the system is not always proportionate to the temperature. A bad head gasket could overpressurize the cooling system to the point that the cap could be releasing, and be doing it when the engine is cold. Or you could have a 225 temperature happening with no overpressurizing yet. Depends on what is wrong.
But you are right on the leakdown test being a good idea, or at the very least pressurize the cylinders lightly and turn the engine over slowly by hand to see if you get the dreaded sound of bubbling.
Mine runs consistantly at 185, on a very hot day it may get up to 190 sitting in traffic or a parking lot. I run a CSF radiator, 10k fan clutch fluid and prestone green coolant.
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- #35
Can one have the oem gauge and aftermarket gauge running at the same time?
Yes...I'm running an Autometer 2 5/8's gauge in a pod on the A pillar in my 94....
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- #38
calfj60 said:
Mind telling a newb how? Thanks!
Hi all,
I do not have time to read the whole discussion and I do not know if someone has already suggested to check out the rear suplementary heating system.
the duct easly gets fill of dirt, and cause overheating problems, so those traveling in the sandy desert areas , eliminate it entirely, bypassing the ducts.
hope this helps. cheers
I do not have time to read the whole discussion and I do not know if someone has already suggested to check out the rear suplementary heating system.
the duct easly gets fill of dirt, and cause overheating problems, so those traveling in the sandy desert areas , eliminate it entirely, bypassing the ducts.
hope this helps. cheers
"You can throw parts at it all day long, but nothing will overcome a bad head gasket."
x2. Ned
x2. Ned
