Over pressurizing coolant system

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I had to replace my head gasket twice for two main reasons...

First, make absolutely sure that the cylinder head and block are clean and free of any remaining materials. I had to take a 3M abrasive pad to get the remaining materials off the surfaces. I used brake clean to clean the entire surface. Get the entire surface area to shine with bare metal.

Second, using a good torque wrench, torque the bolts down in steps, using the pattern provided in the FSM. I stepped at 30ftlbs, 50ftlbs, 65ftlbs, 75ftlbs, 85ftlbs, and lastly 96ftlbs.

While I had the head off, get it checked for flatness, and I would also have the head surfaced by the stone ground method, not the cut method. Before you have your friend start it again, make sure that, if turbocharged, your friend has the boost set to an absolute minimum.
 
I once had a customer come into the shop with her nissan 280zx complaining of loosing water. I removed the radiator cap started the engine and the water shooted out of the neck like it was old faithfull. Shop up 3-4 feet into the air. I said WOW thats a seriosly blown head gasket ;)
 
jake2far said:
One final question, it's stated he replaced his engine with a "new engine" do you mean a new engine, a used engine, a rebuilt engine?
If it is a used engine what was its condition? Does it have a overheating problem unrelated to the first engine like a cracked head?

Jim
Click to expand...


The engine was ordered from SOR and i believe its used but has a 6k warranty. When its back together we will chech for bubbles like stated earlier for compression gasses.
 
amaurer said:
My 3B did the same thing once after I did a poor job replacing the head gasket. Does the engine ever overheat? I kinda doubt a radiator blockage severe enough to overflow the overflow wouldn't alo raise engine temps overall.

Solution for me was to redo the HG job, replacing the cheap ass aftermarket HG with a beautiful new OEM multilayer steel HG. Also had the head milled and cleaned the block perfectly. No more bubbles.
Click to expand...



Where is the GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD (NOT AVAILABLE)
Replaced by: 11115-58110 ..

I haven't found a place where you can purchase, a beautiful new OEM multilayer steel HG, I would need a few.

TIA

VT

 
.......................................
Fixed
 
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Hey guy you wanna bet that the head gasket that was bolted on did not have holes for all the water jackets, sounds crazy i know but the next time you look at a head gasket you will see(in my experience anyway) that alot of jackets are not allowed for and need to be cut out.
Im only new to LCs but fords have been doing this for ever so just a thought...
 
oilpond said:
Hey guy you wanna bet that the head gasket that was bolted on did not have holes for all the water jackets, sounds crazy i know but the next time you look at a head gasket you will see(in my experience anyway) that alot of jackets are not allowed for and need to be cut out.
Im only new to LCs but fords have been doing this for ever so just a thought...
Click to expand...

Maybe. But maybe not. The 3B head, like many others, has "phantom" water passages that don't match up with anything on the block. Some HGs have holes for these passages, some dont. But there is no need to cut them if they're not there - the "passage" is just a machining/casting feature.
 
But the last gent with loose Pre-cups , had an aftermarket gasket.. I'm wondering if the gasket compressed and has caused this 3B dropping problem that could be self-inflected.


VT
 
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UPDATE:

Still no luck with the Engine(s) they both behave exactly the same when swapped out to the letter. They both have little air bubbles in the filler tube of the radiator and when reving up to speed the overfill tube dumps fluid to the resiviour. He stated it started off slowly only once in a while then started to slowly get worse and worse. Eventually spewing radiator fluid after only a few minutes on the road. Both engines have the same problem, even the once from Spector Offroad did this from the get go. Right out of the crate the engine did this, thats why I was thinking it was in the cooling system. Taking your guys advice on keeping it simpe. Two same ingines with the same problem.


The guy had no luck and had to leave his HJ45 behind and head on down to South America. It has two "H" engines and a ton of repair parts. It had a complete rebuild of the entire frame (galvanized) and body, absolutly no rust on the thing. I am actually picking it up from the guy he left it parked with for a great price. So now its my problem engine. Any ideas would be great. Im located in Alaska so if there are any "H" engine people that have any ideas I am all ears.

Robert
 
This is not looking like an engine problem, it is most likely a cooling system problem.

Replace the radiator, hoses, cap, and fan clutch. "Flushing" a rad that is plugged rarely yields a good result - I have seen this time and time again. Deposits that are bonded to the internal passages of the rad simply do not come out unless you rod the rad out, at which point you might as well replace the old radiator with a quality core or complete unit.

A radiator is much cheaper to do than multiple engines, multiple head gaskets etc.

-----

A note about a much earlier post: Roodogs engine parts are mostly sourced from Engines Australia.

~Johh
 
Still no evidence to suggest that both engines have a good head gasket or crack free heads. Pick one, have it checked for cracks and flatness. Then do a good head gasket replacement. Be retentive on cleanliness and use a good torquewrench on new head studs. Only then can you rule out the long block as the cause of the problems.
 
The head gaskets were redone by a shop with no luck, that included testing and milling the head itself to match the block. still the same problem arrose. The guy I got these engines from then bought one from Spector offroad (which has a 6k warranty) and the exact same problem too the "T" showed up. bubbles in the filler neck and eventually once up to temp in spills out. He replaced like i mentioned earlier the hoses, thermostat, headgaskets twice, radiator cap and even a new engine. The head was tested with a dye and all attemps resulted in the issue still coming up. Thats why I began to think i might be the radiator slowing down the flow and boiling off at the filler neck. Am I crazy? I actually aquired the rig and will start a new Thread on this rig once i get some pictures. Its a 1978 HJ45 Pick up.
 
Wow... Lots of guessing work doen on these engines. Did you ever do the combustion gas test on the fluid? Seems like a $5 test instead of a prcey head job.

I think someone before said it best. Do the testing before you do the fixing... then plan accordingly. If both engines are doing it, then look elsewhere to TEST first...

I have combustion gasses in my rad so i am doing a complete rebuild. for the peice of mind, it is worth it. Since the head gasket probably went due to an overheat, I am replacing the rad when the new engine goes in and adding an intercooler. I also am replacing most of the coolant system to be sure. While expensive, the $2500 for the rebuild is worth it...

Do it right, once.
 
Any ideas on a combustion gas tester....cheap
 
Alaskan_IB said:
Any ideas on a combustion gas tester....cheap
Click to expand...

Google this

UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Detector
http://www.google.com/products/cata...ult&ct=result&resnum=3&sqi=2&ved=0CCEQ8wIwAg#


Also known as: UV 560000, UV560000, UVU560000, UVW-560000; 560000Combustion Leak Tester. Features and Benefits:Dual chamber unit eliminates false positives and provides for a high accuracy test. One universal test fluid for both gas and diesel 16 ounce test fluid good for 16 applications. Foam lined storage case to protect the tester (glass)

They can be found for under $48.00.

Jim
 
That is exactly what I need to test out the filler tube, I will get back to you guys when i get a chance to test it out and tell you weather or not its exhaust gasses.

Robert
 
I am having the same issues with my 1979 HJ45 B motor. Vehicle does fine at idle but when it is on the road and accelerated the reserve will fill up and spill out until eventually spilling 1/2 or more of the coolant. Does anyone have a link for a god head gasket and any suggestions, did you resolve the issue? Thanks.
 
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