Over heating problems cruiser 79 4.2 D

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Joined
Dec 30, 2010
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1
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Location
Kimberley South Africa
Hi there guys I hope there is some one that could help me with my cruiser. It is a 2003 model 4.2 D with a turbo fitted with air cooler. It also got a AC , I ve got a problem firtsly the bakkie is heavy on the juice ( between 4 and 5 ) and in summer our temp gets fearly hot ( 35 - 40) when I drive for long distances at speed 130 km with the AC on the temp gage rises not in the red but not where it suppose to be . Then al I do is decreace my speed and the gadge returns to its normal position. My friend got the same cruiser same year but with out the turbo he gets 8 with his cruiser and he drives at speeds of 140 km/h and the heat gadge stays in normal position . If replced the following to solve the problem ,tested the head , replaced head gasket , replaced injectors replaced water cooler with air cooler on turbo and serfaced the diesel pump. I am realy struggeling and there seems to be know one that could help me.:mad:
 
Mate try the basics first,

New air filter and flush the radiator and the WHOLE cooling system, and replace the thermostat. Check your belts are right too. That should help with the heat, although mine does the same at times, but not too often, I have the same heat, just with more humidity

I have a 2001 troopie with the same motor and an aftermarket turbo (Safari on mine) It gets good Kms at that type of speed about 7l per 100kms better if I slow down I think it is the speed that kills your economy, a troopy is about as aerodynamic as two bricks glued together, so speed and economy are not two words for the one sentence,

Chris
 
Thank you Chris . I did flush the radiar about a month ago and replaced the thermostat I can replace the belts . What kind of inter cooler have you got on your turbo water cooler or air cooler I think the water cooler is a better option I m gone put back my water cooler and gone place the radiator of the water cooler in my bumper to reduce exess heat to my engin. But what to do with the fuel economy . When I drive at speed of 100 to 110 Km /p /h I get 6 l per 100 km . But int the turbo suppose to make the bakkie a bit lighter on the juice.
 
Translation:

Bakkie (South Africa) = Pickup (US) = Ute (Australia)

I had to look it up.


When I drive at speed of 100 to 110 Km /p /h I get 6 l per 100 km.
Do you mean 6l extra over non-turbo per 100km?

If it was only using 6l per 100km in total, then that would be very low (very good fuel economy).
 
Overheating

I had a heating problem with a hzj75. Next time it gets hot pop the bonnet and put your thong against the back of the fan and sree if it stops. Two fixes new viscos hub or go to toyota and get two tuber of silcone and pull it apart and put them in. You have replaced your thermosat. The problem i had when you drove it for 20 minites over a 100 or pulling a trailor the temp gauge rose. I found the collent in the radaitor had cristlied and 30% blocked the radaitor. I had a tank removed and roded the core. $ 130 later and i can flog it all day and the gauge doesnt move. Flushing wont clean it out. It 12 months to find the problem.
 
Translation:

Bakkie (South Africa) = Pickup (US) = Ute (Australia)

I had to look it up.



Do you mean 6l extra over non-turbo per 100km?

If it was only using 6l per 100km in total, then that would be very low (very good fuel economy).


I was wondering what a bakkie was
 
Most of the people are facing the same problem with NA engine fitted turbocharger. If you would to ask the specialist, they highly recommend you not to install a turbo to a NA engine. Why not bolt a factory turbo engine 1HD to your Bakkie? This will definitely solve the overheating problem.
Unless your engine is a direct injected type, like the one 15B.. This engine is designed for 2 purposes, for NA and turbo engine. No problem will occur when installing turbo to a 15B NA engine.
 
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My turbo is only cooled by the engine oil and the rediator coolant,. Mine really only heats up towing a large boat on a hot road at full speed now that I have cleaned things up in the radiator and thermo departments

Chris
 
To CLINT 79 You got me now confused I drove 360 km and it took about 70 l of diesel to fil up . 360/70=
5.1 km/l Is my calcultations correct.
 
If it is not a good I dee to fit a turbo to a NA engin why do thye do it . Here in South Africa I think all the engine's are of the NA tipe and it has got turbo's fitted to it with great seccess. I do not think I can get a 1 HD enjin here. My enjin is a 1 HZ
 
To CLINT 79 You got me now confused I drove 360 km and it took about 70 l of diesel to fil up . 360/70=
5.1 km/l Is my calcultations correct.


That's not very good that's worse than my petrol 79 series

there is nothing wrong with putting a turbo on a 1hz plenty of people I know have done / do this mod to there 1hz powered landcruisers with no dramas
 
To CLINT 79 You got me now confused I drove 360 km and it took about 70 l of diesel to fil up . 360/70=
5.1 km/l Is my calcultations correct.
Edit:

Yes, also is 70l/3.6 = 19.4l per 100km
 
If it is not a good I dee to fit a turbo to a NA engin why do thye do it . Here in South Africa I think all the engine's are of the NA tipe and it has got turbo's fitted to it with great seccess. I do not think I can get a 1 HD enjin here. My enjin is a 1 HZ
Lots of people do it, and lots of people say it will destroy the engine quickly.

Seems to be recommended to buy an EGT/pyrometer gauge, and ensure that you keep the exhaust temps below a maximum 550 degrees (post-turbo, higher pre-turbo) at all times, to prolong engine life.

I also run a turbo timer, to let the engine and turbo cool down a little more slowly after use, to again hopefully extend engine life with the turbo on my 1HZ.

Plenty of companies make and sell turbo kits for the 1HZ in Australia.
 
Thanks Simon one question where do I install the EGT.

The EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) gauge, also called a pyrometer, goes in the cabin, like any other aftermarket gauge. It connects to a temperature probe on the engine, which you install into the exhaust pipe next to the turbo.

You have the option of installing it pre-turbo or post-turbo.

Post-turbo is usually easiest, as on a lot of turbo dump pipes there is a fitting already in place to connect it to.

Pre-turbo is usually harder, because you often have to drill into the pipe before the turbo to mount it, and that is normally recommended to be done after removing the pipe, or at least the turbo, from the engine. That way you don't risk any metal shavings/bits from the drilling process falling into the turbo and damaging it.

Pre-turbo is a lot more accurate, as it gives you the temperature of the exhaust immediately as it is exiting the engine. Although you have to decide which cylinder to put it next to for best/average readings.

Post-turbo is not as accurate, and slower to react, as the turbo soaks up some of the heat, and the heat takes a little while to go through the turbo to the probe.

Some people think that fitting it pre-turbo also risks the probe breaking up in use, then falling into the turbo and damaging it, but others think this isn't really an issue.

Post-turbo temps are recommended to be kept below 550 C maximum, pre-turbo temps are higher, not really sure and someone else can confirm, maybe 200 C higher giving a maximum of 750 C pre-turbo.
 
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Madman seem to make a good multi-purpose digital gauge, that can monitor many other levels besides EGT, and can have preset alarms when certain levels are reached.

They sell kits including the gauge and probes/sensors for various engines.

And they are a South African company...
Madman Home Page https://www.madman.co.za/
 

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