Outer tie rod end install question? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

shtbrwn86

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Threads
72
Messages
1,130
Location
Tacoma, WA
Just installed some new 555 tie rod ends from @cruiseroutfit and they don't look right to me? I haven't put the wheels on yet, just got them installed and torqued, but they look a bit off to me? Just hoping someone can look at these pictures to see if they look way messed up or normal.

1. The castle nut seems to go kind of low on the bolt. The hole for the cotter pin sits kind of high?
2. I couldn't find a torque spec, so I used the torque spec in the FSM (90 ft-lb).
3. Driver side seems to be much more "tilted" than the passenger side. Did I not get it lined up straight?

Also, when I installed them, I measured a ton of times to get the length from the center of the bolt to a fixed part on the inner rod (didn't count turns) and when I got them installed prior to torquing they were very visibly turned to the left... I guess it actually might have been my steering wheel? Anyways, my dumbass abandoned my measurements (didn't right them down) and corrected them to straight. Bottom line, I have no idea how off they are. Can an alignment shop fix this?
 
Last edited:
Driver side...

IMG_1648.jpg


IMG_1649.jpg


IMG_1650.jpg
 
Last edited:
Passenger side...

IMG_1651.jpg


IMG_1652.jpg


IMG_1653.jpg
 
Last edited:
The alignment shop will fix it, but if it is too far off they may charge you more, as they will need to spend extra time getting it close before the equipment will register.

I had the same castle but issue with Proforge TREs. I added a flat washer to bring it up to engage the cotter pin more.

As far as the tilt, I don’t think it matters, but if your OCD, you can take it off, straighten the shaft, and put it back. You also may be able to rotate it straight with a hammer.
 
Should be a quick/easy fix for the alignment guys. I’m not following the tilt you’re referring to?
 
Should be a quick/easy fix for the alignment guys. I’m not following the tilt you’re referring to?
The more I think about it I guess it’s probably not tilted? I don’t know. I’ll know more when I get lowered back down and start turning the wheels and take it in.

thanks for the input.
 
Looks normal, especially with wheels still off the ground. I take it there wasn't any problem at the shop?
 
Ugh in
Looks normal, especially with wheels still off the ground. I take it there wasn't any problem at the shop?
Ugh. Still haven’t taken it in yet. Tightening up the control arm bolts now and have an appointment on Tuesday
 
LOL. How far do you have to travel? It's not good that you didn't count the turns, perhaps try and do a manual wheel alignment (check youtube), will get you to the shop without it handling super super badly. Even if you do your own alignment it must still be taken to the shop for a proper alignment.
 
LOL. How far do you have to travel? It's not good that you didn't count the turns, perhaps try and do a manual wheel alignment (check youtube), will get you to the shop without it handling super super badly. Even if you do your own alignment it must still be taken to the shop for a proper alignment.

I thought that if you were using aftermarket parts then you should take a measurement because the physical housings are different from OEM.

I have about a 3-4 miles drive on county roads so no freeway. When I get it all tightened up then I’m going to drive it around the block and see how bad it is. The alignment is Tuesday so if it’s undriveable then I’ll attempt a diy alignment to get it to the shop
 
If they’re different design, yes. The distance or overall length is the main thing. The turns will feel a little strange but take it easy and you should be fine, that’s not too far a drive.
 
I thought that if you were using aftermarket parts then you should take a measurement because the physical housings are different from OEM.

you should do that anyways even of the parts are oem. while it may not put everything in spec itll gat it really close to how it was before
 
Don't forget to add some grease into those tie rod arm boots if you haven't already done so.
Add grease into the boots?? They don’t come pre greased? I put some on the top of the boot where it meets the metal but I didn’t add additional grease?
 
you should do that anyways even of the parts are oem. while it may not put everything in spec itll gat it really close to how it was before
If I had to do it again I’d just get oem. The 555 seems fine but the oem ones aren’t that much more and last longer.
 
Add grease into the boots?? They don’t come pre greased? I put some on the top of the boot where it meets the metal but I didn’t add additional grease?

if there is a grease fitting installed then grease the joint, add a few pumps untill you can start to see the boot expand a little bit. if there ist a grease fitting than just leave it as it comes pregreased from the factory. some people will add grease by poking a small hole in the boot but i dont recommend that as your putting a hole in something that should have a hole in it.
 
if there is a grease fitting installed then grease the joint, add a few pumps untill you can start to see the boot expand a little bit. if there ist a grease fitting than just leave it as it comes pregreased from the factory. some people will add grease by poking a small hole in the boot but i dont recommend that as your putting a hole in something that should have a hole in it.
Oh yeah gotcha. These don’t have a grease fitting. I can’t imagine poking a hole in these!
 
For anyone who is interested, I finally got everything buttoned up and sent in for an alignment and they said they had no trouble with it. The toe was off pretty bad on one of the wheels but they were able to correct it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom