Orion HD Rear Driveshaft

[Sputnik40]

Ok - Here's the deal, I'm near deaf and really hate dealing with the phone (no sob story, I'm one of those stupid happy kinda people); so anyways, most the vendors I deal with are old skool and don't use the phone - and my current conundrum is putting together the right specs on my rear driveline so I can get my last order correct!

Going to be installing an Orion HD into my 40, running a stock 40 rear axle/diff. I ordered the disc brake parking kit from Jessie, along with his patented 32 spline drive flange (male indexing). For various reasons - he's suggesting I dump my cheapo mini-truck double cardens (requires a female indexed flange) and step up to the 1350 CV shaft.

I like my mini double cardens (I now how two spares), but am willing to bite the bullet if it's the easiest route.

Now - here's the question. I'm not ready to upgrade the rear axle, I've grenaded 4 diffs in the past 4 years, but mostly due to driving style and on one occasion an incomplete SOA. That being said - what terminology do I need to use when talking about having the rear half of my Toyota driveshaft mated to a 1350 CV - yes I know the u-joint will be a weak link (I want that weak link there, not in the diff or axles (Poly by the way)). So again - how do I get thru this so that I can carry spare lower Toyota halves...as I'm certain the 1350 will be around for eternity.

Thanks for listening - let me know what I need to clarify?

 

[Sputnik40]

Here's the thread where I got the flange ideas from - since I had both my shafts fabbed up by Jessie in years past, I thought it'd be a no brainer. However, apparently the problem is running the flange combined with the disc brake kit (as he has to use his standard 32 spline flange milled down so as to work with the disc ID.

What am I missing here?

 

[Poser]

Going to be installing an Orion HD into my 40, running a stock 40 rear axle/diff. I ordered the disc brake parking kit from Jessie, along with his patented 32 spline drive flange (male indexing). For various reasons - he's suggesting I dump my cheapo mini-truck double cardens (requires a female indexed flange) and step up to the 1350 CV shaft.

I like my mini double cardens (I now how two spares), but am willing to bite the bullet if it's the easiest route.

Now - here's the question. I'm not ready to upgrade the rear axle, I've grenaded 4 diffs in the past 4 years, but mostly due to driving style and on one occasion an incomplete SOA. That being said - what terminology do I need to use when talking about having the rear half of my Toyota driveshaft mated to a 1350 CV - yes I know the u-joint will be a weak link (I want that weak link there, not in the diff or axles (Poly by the way)). So again - how do I get thru this so that I can carry spare lower Toyota halves...as I'm certain the 1350 will be around for eternity.

Thanks for listening - let me know what I need to clarify?

Well, a 1350 joint is not going to be a ‘weak link’.....


The only weak side it has, or drawback/downside, would be the fact that it binds at less of an angle, compared to many other joints. The operating angle is not as great. I have read somewhere that someone was making new yokes that would permit it to operate at angles greater than 22 degrees…..but since you are going to be running this on the rear axle, spring over, then this will be a non-factor because you have rotated your pinion up to point at the output of the transfer case(or it should be)



You will need to get a round flat flange for the Land Cruiser diff and get the bolt pattern/s off of it and see if Jess can find you a 1350 flange yoke end that will bolt to it, or modify the Land Cruiser diff flange to fit the 1350 flange yoke pattern. I am not aware of one that bolts right up to a Land Cruiser differential companion flange.

Here's the thread where I got the flange ideas from - What am I missing here?

The link to the thread?



Was it this thread?

since I had both my shafts fabbed up by Jessie in years past, I thought it'd be a no brainer. However, apparently the problem is running the flange combined with the disc brake kit (as he has to use his standard 32 spline flange milled down so as to work with the disc ID.

I believe that the issue lies in the non-compatibility of the bolt patterns between the mini-truck CV’s, the 1350 CV’s, and the 32 spline output flange and parking brake disc. I do not think that you are going to be able to bolt your mini-truck CV’s to the High Angle output flange on the transfer case. It is also my understanding that the same bolts that retain the drive shaft to the output flange retain the parking brake disc to the flange.




When I first installed Dana 60’s front and rear in my Land Cruiser back in 1999, I was still using the Land Cruiser one-piece transfer case, and had to modify the parking brake drum by pressing the old studs out and marking the 1350 flange yoke pattern on it and then drilling the drum out and pressing the studs back in.



That worked fine, until I decided to install the Atlas.

 

[Sputnik40]

See ideas in red below? Will this work?

The link to the thread?

Was it this thread?

YES! I forgot to paste the link.

I believe that the issue lies in the non-compatibility of the bolt patterns between the mini-truck CV’s, the 1350 CV’s, and the 32 spline output flange and parking brake disc. I do not think that you are going to be able to bolt your mini-truck CV’s to the High Angle output flange on the transfer case. It is also my understanding that the same bolts that retain the drive shaft to the output flange retain the parking brake disc to the flange.

After posting this last night and while running errands figured - the 32 spline flange that Jess sent (has the OD for the disc parking rotor, but he milled it down from there forward to match the Orion rear seal). Yes - the bolt pattern is far broader, but the solution just seems to simple to me?

1) Grind off the male indexing ring off the back of the flange.
2) Have a local machine shop open up the female indexing a hair (where the flange nut goes for the output shaft), and only about 1/8" deep to accept the Toyota drivshaft male indexing).
3) Drill in the mini-truck double carden pattern (I actually think my current shaft has a 76 flange mated to the mini-carden by Jessie - or he redid my drum similar to what you describe - I forget - need to look).
* The disc goes on the t-case side of the flange (e.g. indexed on OD), and there is plenty of space for the Toyota shaft to clocked to clear the 4 disc bolts.

The question is - since the High Angle flange is so thick - do I countersink the back side of the flange to allow me to press in some studs and then have the disk clear that, or do I just simply drill both the flange and the disk and use longer bolts - thick Jess said something about shoulder of bolt and strength?

I like my ideas above as I want to keep the Toyota driveshafts as a fusible link - I have spares, they're cheap, and it's easier to fix that a busted rear end.

Other than that - I'm back to square one building up a better rear axle and just committing to the 1350 CV (Jess sells the ones that go past 22 degrees.

Yes - my SOA is clocked up.

When I first installed Dana 60’s front and rear in my Land Cruiser back in 1999, I was still using the Land Cruiser one-piece transfer case, and had to modify the parking brake drum by pressing the old studs out and marking the 1350 flange yoke pattern on it and then drilling the drum out and pressing the studs back in.

This is similar to what I was thinking above.

That worked fine, until I decided to install the Atlas.

I struggled between the Atlas, Stak and Orion - and decided on the Orion due to not having to go centered. Really comes down to fact I don't have the money to do both - nor the time this year to do it right. Orion was a bolt in....

 

[Poser]

It sounds to me that you can have the flange modified and that it should work for you that way. I would use bolts with locking nuts and or locktite.

Check them often after you get this together.