Orion HD #3...Paging Peescoffee

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#15 :flipoff2: !

neil , let me know on the wiring for the vss. thanks in advance! :beer:
ultimate60transtcase.webp
 
It looks from that pic as if it would only clear if you have a doubler, an old school A/A adapter, or maybe some serious grinding on the 420 case, anyone ever tried to shave the 420 case ala a rear diff ?
 
#15 :flipoff2: !

neil , let me know on the wiring for the vss. thanks in advance! :beer:

Hey G,

You'll need Mopar art Number 5014007-AA.

Advanced Adapters uses A Speed Sensor from Jeep TJ Rubicons'
Let me know if you need the wiring Diagram
Neil
 
It looks from that pic as if it would only clear if you have a doubler, an old school A/A adapter, or maybe some serious grinding on the 420 case, anyone ever tried to shave the 420 case ala a rear diff ?

I think it depends on what adapter you are using. It should clear just fine with an AA adapter but you may have issues using one of the widely used plate adapters
N.

Sorry it takes a while to repond to questions, I don't live on the computor.


Update ...After finishing the guages the last step was Ebrake. Since he had just picked up an new(to him) FJ60 full float we converted it to Eldorado calipers. All new bearings and seals off he goes...3" wider
 
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A couple more of the axle...And by the way. If anyone is looking Dave might have a rear axle,w/ disc brakes and Poly perfrormance chromoly axles collecting dust soon
 
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righton neil!

what did you use for the e-brake handle setup inside the rig? is it working well?!
 
righton neil!

what did you use for the e-brake handle setup inside the rig? is it working well?!

Hi Georg-
Congrats on the up coming father hood.

Neil tied it into the stock e brake handle and cable. I'll let Neil describe the parts he used and the bracket he fabbed but it looks as if it came from the factory this way.

Will be picking up the rig on Tuesday and should have it wheeling by Friday to go start the break in on the reansfercase. Can't wait, wider and slower.....In a cruiser that is a good thing.

The gauge cluster came out great. It is the BTB panel with Autometer guages. Painted the panel with a spray can of paint mixed up at the auto body supply. Tried to keep a little of the stock appearence.


Dave
 
righton neil!

what did you use for the e-brake handle setup inside the rig? is it working well?!

ditto .. I have also ElDo calipers with e-brake in Tencha .. and no matter what I do, the e-brake can not ! handle the Tencha weight in a little hill ..
 
Right now the ebrake is about as good as most people say it is..that is it sucks. I spoke with s buddy at TJM and have a few ideas to remedy this and will post up what i come up with.

Anyway how about a couple more pics to tease Dave...
 
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Right now the ebrake is about as good as most people say it is..that is it sucks. I spoke with s buddy at TJM and have a few ideas to remedy this and will post up what i come up with..

great .. please let me ( us ) know if you have some info in this issue ..
 
Well i think i might have the Ebrake figured out. I fabbed up a quick cantilever to increase the leverage at the actuator(the pull under the dash). I seemed to getting plenty of travel out of the cable but just not enough power under the dash. This seems to have remedied the power issue and i'll test it out next week but for now these pics may explain it better.
Please let me know what you think
N
 
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from what i've seen/heard, it's not an issue of having enough leverage on the brake handle ( although for obvious reasons you do have to have enough to apply enough pressure). the biggest problem is that the caddy calipers require a fairly hefty return spring to reset them once they're dis-engaged. that's why the stock ebrake pedals have an evil return spring. not sure that a hand actuated lever will allow for enough "return-force" to let the caliper reset.

hope that makes sense.......
 
It's not the return spring as the spring on the calipers are heavy enough to take care of that. They return fine. But before i put in the cantilever the handle a under the dash would only come out about a quarter to third of the way and was instantly tight yet it would not hold the truck back.
I don't know if this fixed it yet as i have no place to test it on hill but it seems pretty good in the shop.
The first pic is the caliper w/spring and the second is the cables before the cantilever
 
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Well...
With some final adjusting and plenty of experimenting the brakes are good to go. The Ebrake will kill the truck in first gear which is better than my cruiser with the stock ebrake. It will kill it in second but not first. We'll see how it works long term as it self adjust's with usage but for now it holds the truck backy even with all the wieght Dave has in it. If my 40 is like a Sherman Tank Dave's is like the USS Missouri.(Thats a Battleship for you land lovers)
 
Well...


With some final adjusting and plenty of experimenting the brakes are good to go. The Ebrake will kill the truck in first gear which is better than my cruiser with the stock ebrake. It will kill it in second but not first. We'll see how it works long term as it self adjust's with usage but for now it holds the truck backy even with all the wieght Dave has in it. If my 40 is like a Sherman Tank Dave's is like the USS Missouri.(Thats a Battleship for you land lovers)




Huh? :confused:
 
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Look good. Thank you for posting this.

:beer:
 

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