This may be a walk in the park for most on here but I'm unsure about how to approach this. I have one 82 60 with a bent front axle and 81 60 with a perfect axle. I need to switch them. Is this a easy deal or something I should leave to the pros? Is there a how to on this. Whats involved...what will I need etc?
One 60 with bent axle
- Thread starter gnomesliv
- Start date
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If you have tools you can do it
4 ubolts
4 driveshaft bolts
1 brakeline
2 shocks
2 swaybar link ends
1steering damper bolt if you have one.
should be as simple as that.
I would get 4 new ubolts and depending on how rusty the trucks are the sway bar link ends might break.
spray PB blaster on everything the day or two before you work on them and then go for it.
Cam
4 ubolts
4 driveshaft bolts
1 brakeline
2 shocks
2 swaybar link ends
1steering damper bolt if you have one.
should be as simple as that.
I would get 4 new ubolts and depending on how rusty the trucks are the sway bar link ends might break.
spray PB blaster on everything the day or two before you work on them and then go for it.
Cam
- Thread starter
- #3
Hey thanks for that...I've got plenty of tools..just not a lot of experience with the 60 yet. So, the springs in the front don't have to come off... And is this something I could pull of in a day? Will I need to bleed the breaks after this is done? Sorry for the questions but this is a first for me.
yes you will have to bleed the brakes and if you have some help you dont have to take the spings off teh frame but it takes to people to slide the axle out.
if you dont have help just drop the shackles and rotate the springs down, leave the tires on and role it out, and role it under the ather truck.
if you dont have help just drop the shackles and rotate the springs down, leave the tires on and role it out, and role it under the ather truck.
- Thread starter
- #5
sounds easy enough. is there a difference btw switching the axle housing and the axle or are these one in the same? I was told the axle housing (to be exact) is bent and needs to be switched. Again, thanks for the quick response... I have no FSM and don't have a clue how things connect behind the wheel.
The procedure given above is for swapping the axle housing with the axles inside. If you need to rebuild your axles (meaning replacing wheel bearings, steering knuckle bearings, axle seals) that is a different procedure, but it's not necessarily needed in your case. If you know the bearings are OK and there are not any major leaks in the spare housing, then you don't have to rebuild the axles, just swap them.
REKCUT
SILVER Star
your going to have to get a puller for the tie rod end on the pitman arm, the arm that comes off the steering box and connects to the tie rods that allow you to steer the truck. you just need to seperate that end on both axles, can be a PITA. if the axle housing is bent save the inside parts for spares, gears, birf's, calipers, rotors, etc..
- Thread starter
- #9
I swear this site and the good people on it has saved me so much money...... I appreciate all the help! So I will have to buy a puller for the tie rod? What kind of puller?
No..I don't need to rebuild axles. They are both fine..it's just the long side (i beleive) is bent and as a result the wheel and tire are an extreme toe out...if this makes sense.
No..I don't need to rebuild axles. They are both fine..it's just the long side (i beleive) is bent and as a result the wheel and tire are an extreme toe out...if this makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #10
On the donor truck the axles and everything else associated is in good condition. So is there anything I need to know when taking down the leaf springs?
REKCUT
SILVER Star
When taking off springs Heat is your friend. The rubber bushing are impossible to beat out. Heat them with a torch and they will pop out. Needless to say you will need new ones.
any auto parts stores sells them, or you can use a pickel fork here are a few pics of things you can use. orientation is always an issue at times though
this is what i use it is $45 but worth itgood luck
x2 on the puller recommendation. The last one pictured above seemed to work the best for me. Of course in the first picture, it's best to at least have the nut backed off. These things can pop off with quite some force, so loosen the nut, but leave it on so the parts don't go flying around. You'll need to use some penetrating oil and perhaps some heat and most likely a big hammer. Some say to hit the steering arm on the side to take the hole slightly out-of-round to break the tie rod free. The instructions that came with my puller said to hit the end of the nut on the puller (striking the hammer along the axis of the puller).
Or use furniture dollies.
- Thread starter
- #16
This is a gold mine right here. But, I didn't see any manual detailing the steering and suspension component setup for the 60. I'll keep searching tho.
- Thread starter
- #17
any auto parts stores sells them, or you can use a pickel fork here are a few pics of things you can use. orientation is always an issue at times though
i have used this type before $20 before but the cheap ones somes times spread and the feet break
good luck
I'm assuming the long angled bar attached to what looks like the axle?? is the pitman arm?
no that picture is just an example of the use of a puller on a tie rod end.
If you open the hood, stand facing the motor, look down and to the right your steering box is sitting on the frame, now get on the ground and look up from the drivers side front tire you will see an arm coming off that steering box. that is your pitman arm, at the end is the tie rod end you need to remove. ill take a picture of mine tonight if someone else hasnt posted one yet.
If you open the hood, stand facing the motor, look down and to the right your steering box is sitting on the frame, now get on the ground and look up from the drivers side front tire you will see an arm coming off that steering box. that is your pitman arm, at the end is the tie rod end you need to remove. ill take a picture of mine tonight if someone else hasnt posted one yet.
For the Tie-Rods get this one, as shown above.
LINK
ANOTHER LINK
Just did my TRE's with that tool and it made it amazingly easy.
It's called an OTC 7135A -- there's also a generic one, on ebay, for 20 bux, called a universal tie rod end puller (search) and it should work just fine, too, if you want to save the $15 -- Usually OTC tools are USA made, but this turned out to be PROC! So the generic one is prolly the same tool.
Good luck.
LINK
ANOTHER LINK
Just did my TRE's with that tool and it made it amazingly easy.
It's called an OTC 7135A -- there's also a generic one, on ebay, for 20 bux, called a universal tie rod end puller (search) and it should work just fine, too, if you want to save the $15 -- Usually OTC tools are USA made, but this turned out to be PROC! So the generic one is prolly the same tool.
Good luck.
