Onboard Shower Ideas

[MagicBeans]

In order to keep myself from going into full blown landcruiser withdrawals, I'm contemplating making an on-board shower to install once I get the cruiser back. I've come up with two different designs and wanted to hear what other people think. The first design is to build either a cylinder or coil style heat exchanger that is plugged into the cooling system. This seems to work and I've read a lot about it online. The other idea, which seems like it would be more efficient and simpler to make, is to wrap a copper coil around the exhaust and pump water through it. My concern with this design though, is that it would get too hot, maybe even melt the copper or the solder at some point? Anybody done this already and have pictures? Ideas?

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

In order to keep myself from going into full blown landcruiser withdrawals, I'm contemplating making an on-board shower to install once I get the cruiser back. I've come up with two different designs and wanted to hear what other people think. The first design is to build either a cylinder or coil style heat exchanger that is plugged into the cooling system. This seems to work and I've read a lot about it online. The other idea, which seems like it would be more efficient and simpler to make, is to wrap a copper coil around the exhaust and pump water through it. My concern with this design though, is that it would get too hot, maybe even melt the copper or the solder at some point? Anybody done this already and have pictures? Ideas?

There are some good threads about this, and apparently very few designs that work. All are pretty elaborate. I am more the type for this:

 

[LSUfj]

I added a helton heat exchanger and an onboard 20gal water tank. It is elaborate and wasnt cheap, but it does work. Not sure if I would go this route again. I think the zodi systems that run on propane are nice and simple. I have never used one, but I they are probably a little cheaper than the route I went and you can take it anywhere you want.

 

[kennyfj40]

I went a slightly different route with my on board shower. I got a heat exchanger off of fle-bay for about 130.00 bucks. It was intended to be used to preheat oil for converted engines. Got a low flow high pressure shur-flo pump for about 60.00. Found a 7 gallon stainless steel water tank off of fle-bay for 45.00. I have used the shower several times to spray out mud clogged radiators, only used it as a shower about 2 times. It is nice to have onboard water with a way to spray it out. It heats the water up to very hot and is regulated with the heater control in the vehicle. It may not be worth the time and money to install one in your rig, but it has worked out well for me.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I got a Coleman portable hot water system for a few hundred bucks.
It packs away into a nice square shape and runs on either small canisters or gas bottles

Im not keen on anything plugged into my cooling system or choking up the engine bay

 

[alia176]

Your idea of exhaust heating up the water is a good one - just recirc the water into a container first and then shut the engine off. This way, no more scalding water and you can take your time with the shower. I don't think you'll melt the copper. Years ago I did this to heat the windshield washer fluid and the copper held up fine for years.

 

[NorCalBorn]

I got nothing as far as a LC, but in my case, after doing the swap from auto to 5 speed, I am looking at using the lower part of my factory radiator, a tank, pump, and temp control valve.

Basically a less part oriented way of doing Kenny's deal. My lower radiator (seperated from the coolant) becomes my exchanger, only issue is monitoring the inlet and outlet temps so I don't accidentally put in too cold a temperature and risk cracking the radiator or creating cold (dead) spots.

 

[Dave 2000]

The other idea, which seems like it would be more efficient and simpler to make, is to wrap a copper coil around the exhaust and pump water through it. My concern with this design though, is that it would get too hot, maybe even melt the copper or the solder at some point? Anybody done this already and have pictures? Ideas?

Many years ago TOTR Rovers used to have chambers cast into the exhaust manifolds which were then run into the car heater, the heaters in these cars worked within seconds of starting up so the idea is not new but is very sound. If you have a manual car you could use an automatic version of the engine radiator and plumb it in as an indirect coil to a resovoir somewhere. Years ago I used to run a mobile workshop and this had a similar idea run of the heater system however the capacity was not brilliant and took quite awhile to heat up but worked all the same.

just my tuppence worth

regards

Dave

 

[MagicBeans]

alia, Dave, would you need a reservoir after the water passes by the exhaust? I was thinking of something like a proportioning valve that would adjust the amount of water going directly to the exhaust and directly to the shower head. Or for simplicy, I could just play around with the number of times the copper was wrapped around the exhaust until I got the right temperature. Right? Thanks for all of your inputs!

 

[alia176]

alia, Dave, would you need a reservoir after the water passes by the exhaust? I was thinking of something like a proportioning valve that would adjust the amount of water going directly to the exhaust and directly to the shower head. Or for simplicy, I could just play around with the number of times the copper was wrapped around the exhaust until I got the right temperature. Right? Thanks for all of your inputs!

Well, I would wrap the copper pipe as many times as possible so that you get the fastest heat transfer. No sense wasting fuel any longer than necessary by idling the engine.

Assuming you have a way to pump water out of a container and a shower head, here's what I'd do:

- pump water out of the container, go through the copper tubing
- stick the shower head back into the container so that the water recircs.
- once the water is up to shower temp, turn off the engine and continue recircing.
- follow the KISS principle.

I'd not shower with the water directly coming out of the copper tubing (single pass) as the water temp can be hard to control and there is a strong possibility of scalding once you stop and then start up the water pump. If the water flow was stopped long enough, there could possibly be steam in the copper pipe.

I have the Helton shower head/cig lighter/pump system and very pleased with it. You may want to start with this kit and then figure out what works best for you. The pump in this kit is by no means a RV 2.8gpm pump but it's good for water conservation.

Just my .02 cents. If you want more info, ping me off line.

Cheers.

 

[NorCalBorn]

...took quite awhile to heat up but worked all the same.

Similar instance with me, we had a service truck for a ski resort that we used an auto radiator to prime the defrosting tanks for the walkways when the ice got too thick. Had a neat regulator setup and adjustable pressure along with a high hp pump for a sprayer attachment.

I was going off the idea you'd want to shower just after a day's travels/work/w-e. The block and radiator would already be up to temp as would the circulated reserve. That way you can go to bed clean, get up, get dressed, and attack your new day.

Tent nookie notwithstanding.

 

[Bogo]

My personal favorite is a tank which has a coil of tubing that engine coolant is run through when the engine is running. It heats the water in the tank. You can heat the water up to 160F or higher. When you use it, you mix it with cool water and it goes much further. A 5 gallon tank could easily provide 7 to 10 gallons shower water depending on the initial temps of the hot and cool water. The disadvantage is pressurized water is needed. I also figure a cold water tank 2X or larger than the hot water tank is needed.

IsoTherm is one brand that is considered very good.

Another thing you could do is just draw off some from the tank into a shower bag and mix with cool water to desired temp. The IsoTherm units would have to be modified to do this as they have their hot water outlet pipe routed right to the top of the tank.

I've thought of making my own tank with a coolant heating coil at the bottom. I'd have a spigot at the bottom, and a filler opening at the top. May also make it so I can pressurize the tank with compressed air. Then I could run a line up into the back for easy hot water dispensing there. This would give me another excuse to have on board air...

 

[Aussie cruiser]

Can't beat the Coleman that Rosco mentioned. I bought one for the last beach trip. Got sick of waiting for the engine to warm up to use the Glind.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I've thought of making my own tank with a coolant heating coil at the bottom. I'd have a spigot at the bottom, and a filler opening at the top. May also make it so I can pressurize the tank with compressed air. Then I could run a line up into the back for easy hot water dispensing there. This would give me another excuse to have on board air...

I had the same vision though any coolant leaks in the hot water reservoir would be trouble. Daily shower and sink usage at the end of the trail is the plan. With an in-cab switch and temp gauge one could regulate the circulation and just how hot the water gets. I would rather run a tube through the rad and use an RV pump to circulate and pressurize the water for usage. Drinking and cooking water would be separate so for most any other use warm water is preferable, yes-no? Therefore one only needs to carry a large warm water tank and enough potable water for the trip. Your warm water tank could then be re-filled from any freshwater source along the way (filtering as needed). The RV pump needs to handle fairly hot water.

Just thinking out loud

 

[Bogo]

I had the same vision though any coolant leaks in the hot water reservoir would be trouble. Daily shower and sink usage at the end of the trail is the plan. With an in-cab switch and temp gauge one could regulate the circulation and just how hot the water gets. I would rather run a tube through the rad and use an RV pump to circulate and pressurize the water for usage. Drinking and cooking water would be separate so for most any other use warm water is preferable, yes-no? Therefore one only needs to carry a large warm water tank and enough potable water for the trip. Your warm water tank could then be re-filled from any freshwater source along the way (filtering as needed). The RV pump needs to handle fairly hot water.

Just thinking out loud

You can get double walled heat exchanger pipes. Many municipalities require them in boilers in houses for the reason of leaks. I've noticed that none of the RV or boat water heaters have the double walled heat exchangers.

There could also be a temperature control switch in my style tank that is setup to open and close a heater core valve in line with the engine coolant line. The switch could be a simple bi-metalic switch glued to the side of the tank. I was just figuring on making it heat to the maximum possible to provide as much hot waster as possible.

Good luck finding a RV pump that will work. Most have plastic heads and state something like 130F as max temp. I wouldn't use that low of temperature rating for water heated by engine coolant.

One of my main goals has been to keep it as simple as possible. Hence my use of the engine's own water pump for circulating the coolant to the hot water tank. Also lack of valves other than a pair to shut off and isolate that loop.

As for pressurizing the tank. That came because I realized going with ARB lockers and an on board air tank I had the pressurized air source. At that point an air line with a regulator is all that is needed for pressurizing the tank. A side effect of pressurizing to 30PSI plus is any leak in the heat exchanger line will push fresh water into the coolant system.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Your argument makes a lot of sense. I like the onboard air/ pressurized tank idea. Would you use a pressure vessel or self designed custom tank? Aluminum, steel or stainless (I can make all three). Stainless would be best to avoid corrosion issues inside the tank. It would be low pressure but even 10 psi is a lot over an area of any size so there would be a few internal bulkheads etc. So a fill/ outlet port, drain, two couplers for the coil, a hole for a valve stem and a fitting for a pressure gauge. Would you insulate the tank? Or the lines if the tank was say... in the bed of a 45? I suppose it would depend on performance of the coil, you've got all day to heat the water.

Rambling again I am

 

[roscoFJ73]

Can't beat the Coleman that Rosco mentioned. I bought one for the last beach trip. Got sick of waiting for the engine to warm up to use the Glind.

Dont have to shower right next to the vehicle either,take it where you want.
And when the power goes off at home,guess who still has hot showers

 

[Bogo]

Your argument makes a lot of sense. I like the onboard air/ pressurized tank idea. Would you use a pressure vessel or self designed custom tank? Aluminum, steel or stainless (I can make all three). Stainless would be best to avoid corrosion issues inside the tank. It would be low pressure but even 10 psi is a lot over an area of any size so there would be a few internal bulkheads etc. So a fill/ outlet port, drain, two couplers for the coil, a hole for a valve stem and a fitting for a pressure gauge. Would you insulate the tank? Or the lines if the tank was say... in the bed of a 45? I suppose it would depend on performance of the coil, you've got all day to heat the water.

Rambling again I am

All questions I asked myself...

Stainless steel, and rated for the pressure. 4 to 6 gallon. The company I'd have make it is here in IA and they do stainless welding all the time. I'd have a port plus plate at each end. Into the plates I'd have the fittings mounted. That way if I want to change things I can just modify the plates. It also allows for cleaning out. Full insulation of at least 1", more where I can fit it. No plans for baffles as the tank will be round and mounted vertically.

Air pressurization will be done with a regulator and hose plumed into a port on the top plate of the tank. I'll need a check valve, tee, 2 ball valves, filter and regulator in that line. Order in the line from compressor tank to water tank: ball valve, regulator, filter, check valve, tee, tank, with the other leg of the tee having the other ball valve on it for venting pressure. The check valve is to prevent back flow when the compressor's tank is drawn down heavily by something else. An overpressure valve will be in the top plate of the tank. I'll run a hose from it down and out of the truck. I may also put the pressure venting valve in the top of the tank. The tank fill will be via garden hose connector with a ball valve.

Yes tank pressure will be relatively constant with this setup and will need to be released for filling.

Engine coolant lines to and from the tank would be insulated as best possible.

I just realized as I was writing this up it should be possible to use a 3 or 5 gallon premix cannisters like used on the soda machines. Many brewing places handle them. The outlet has a 1/4" pipe to the bottom of the cannister. Into the fill clean out port you could plumb the heat exchanger. The inlet could have the pressurizing lines hooked to it.

5 Gallon new $118, Used $38

Likely you could get a SS welder to weld additional ports onto the top of it if you wanted.

I'm not set on doing a tank myself as Isotherm's are within reason price wise. I've just explored it as a possibility.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I work at a specialty welding shop that does a lot of stainless and aluminum welding so I am going to (eventually) steal some of your ideas and make my own tank. My build is a '78 45 for North American expedition and I don't mind a complicated build as long as I do it myself. I am going to find a volume of space somewhere in the build and make a custom tank with all the features you describe and any others I can think of.

A thought I had was that if I want to mix cold and hot using a faucet of some kind they will have to be at the same pressure. Possibly even connected with an airline. My preference is a fully functioning shower spigot and kitchen sink, not a bucket.

Kevin

 

[Bogo]

For mixed water they do need to be at the same pressure. If you don't mind dedicating the space, a 5 gallon Isotherm heater supplied with pressure and cool water by a pump with accumulator. The source cool water tank should be 15 plus gallons, but could be unpressurized.

This PDF has a bunch of boat water heaters opened up including the Isotherm unit. I managed to get some inspiration from it.
http://www.indelmarineusa.com/pdf/Depliant_GB.pdf