? on possible Utility trailer (1 Viewer)

[Mag1]

Hi all, new here, from Wisconsin. I have seen some unbelievable neat trailers built on here. Ok, maybe I don't get out much. my question is, can you make a utility trailer similar to many of the off road camping trailers that have been built? Basically, can you use the base of one of these types of trailers to end up with roughly a 4x6, and have an adjustable tongue length? I don't have much room for storage, but would like to keep it inside a garage, maybe pull the tongue, and either stand it up on end, or just have a smaller footprint to tuck it into a corner. it would be used for occasional use with stuff around the house, and to pull a jon boat to the hunting spot. nothing major off road, mainly highway use with some very mild offroad. I have the CAD skills to draw anything up, along with a MIG welder. just not sure about the time at this point. Kind of wanted to see if I could draw something up over this winter, and go from there.

Any input, and or suggestions on what to look for on this forum or others.
thanks in advance.

 

[scrapdaddy]

My 2 cents....You know what the needs for the family trip, etc. more than us, so just write down all the things it needs to carry/do and start drawing it up. When you start trying to make the trailer a multi function piece it gets compromised in all areas, but can be still be made for what you need it to do, just don't expect much.

Post up your drawings!

 

[ntsqd]

There's some do's and don'ts to trailer frame design that are frequently disregarded here (usually more a specific don't), so I would advise educating yourself first. The best book that I know of on the topic is out of print and expensive on amazon, but it is "Trailers: How to Design and Build" by M.M. Smith. If you find a good book please share it because nothing that I've looked at so far has dealt with the nuts and bolts of trailer frame design.

Some basics I think important:

1) The tongue should always go under the main box part of the frame, never off the front of it. This is for increased strength where it is needed the most.

2) If leaf springs do not use typical trailer leaf springs for something going off pavement. They're too short and too stiff. Accept that ride height is going to vary with the loading, or go linkage and air springs. If anything other than trailer springs are used it will require shocks. Do not lay these over more than 25° from vertical or they'll be basically useless.

3) Keep the tire size reasonable. I get wanting all the same size on the tow rig and the trailer. Large off-road tires on a trailer usually make it less stable at speed. I stop at 31-10.50's. I'll go taller if pushed, but I won't go wider.

4) Trailers do not articulate, they do not need nor can they use a long travel suspension. Any articulation needs are dealt with at the coupler. They do need a supple suspension to not foam the beer or break the eggs.

5) For a long time I was against the pintle and lunette. Then I realized that my experiences with them were noisy because of a mis-match of the lunette to the pintle. If the cross-section of the lunette's ring nearly fills the opening in the pintle they are not noisy.

 

[Mag1]

thanks for the input so far. Keep it coming.

 

[YMT]

I'm no expert, and like others have said, a good trailer building/design book is a great suggestion.

Some basics I've found to be useful:
-the axle is to be positioned 60%/40% of the cargo area (not including the tongue). 60% in front of the axle. I've seen many who cheat this for better departure angle while offroad. The weight transfer can affect it's towing characteristics.
- the longer the tongue, the better the trailer is to back, especially on a single axle.
- plan on your lights in your design. I prefer recessed lights since they're better protected.
- check your state's laws on homebuilt trailers. Some have size/weight restrictions that can affect the registration process.

If you're wanting something that you can easily store, a Harbor freight folding trailer (or similar) is hard to beat for convenience, but they aren't heavy duty.

 

[LC4LIFE]

5) For a long time I was against the pintle and lunette. Then I realized that my experiences with them were noisy because of a mis-match of the lunette to the pintle. If the cross-section of the lunette's ring nearly fills the opening in the pintle they are not noisy.

I am in that camp right now...against the pintle and lunette. I have a regular tongue and ball right now, but am considering going to a Lock-n-Roll or Max-Coupler. I like them, but the complexity is keeping me from pulling the trigger on either option. Do you have a good resource or pointers on getting the right sizes for the pintle/lunette combo that wont bang around all day long?

Thanks for the help.

 

[ntsqd]

I really don't. I've looked at the MIL-Spec for them and it's semi-clear what is expected, but not all mfg's make their parts to the spec. I've attached those specs.

I have looked at making my own version of a Max Coupler or an L-n-R and to do it in a way that the Engineer in me can accept is not easy or simple.
I've posted it before, but this is how I built a swivel lunette:

To give a sense of scale those are 7" long 9/16 G8 bolts. One of the 'washers' under the nut is a Belleville Washer which puts a spring pre-load on the flanged oilite-bronze bushing & thrust washer. It takes about 3' of leverage to rotate the lunette.