On Board Independent 12v AC System? (3 Viewers)

[joxeale]

Has anyone mounted something like these on an 80? Been seriously considering getting the kit but i'm curious if someone already did it to check out the mounting spots of everything. I have no spare tire under the rig so likely that would be the spot but that's also where i'll be putting a water tank so lets see how this goes. I have a 280ah battery ready to go that should power this with no issues for a good while. Thoughts?

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[Dindu Nuffin]

Hey, ex-80 now current Sequoia owner here. I saw this on the side and figured I'd chime in. I seriously considered somehow adapting a rear AC system into my 80 and this is by far the best option I've seen for that. I'm trying to remember the room in the 80 engine bay, but I did have a York on mine and am sure that a second AC compressor or additional alternator would go in its place. I forget who makes it, but there is (or was) a kit to mount a 150A Sequoia alternator in place of the stock 80A alternator. The spare tire area is where I'd mount the condenser as well. Re: water tanks... there's a lot of space left under the truck depending on how much you need. Off the top of my head, I think about baffled saddle tanks between the frame and pinch welds that are protected by skids or sliders, or even double as sliders. If you split your water supply into multiple tanks, you have a lot of options.

Not that an electric AC compressor is bad, but I see it as a significant waste of available energy when you think about the engine needing to turn an alternator that produces AC current, the loss in converting it to DC current, the loss in that going into a battery, and then the loss in the motor spinning the compressor when the engine can just turn the compressor directly. That's all moot if you want AC with the engine off, though.

BTW- rear AC is exquisite. Between that and UV rejecting tint, it's an icebox in there even on 100 degree days.

 

[Fj80oregon]

What’s wrong with your current AC mine blows so cold I have to turn it down. Good tint goes a long ways also.

 

[joxeale]

What’s wrong with your current AC mine blows so cold I have to turn it down. Good tint goes a long ways also.

Like I stated in the title, I want an independent running AC unit. I sleep in the back. I can fire this up if hot outside, the compressor/fan is not belt driven, just needs power. I'm thinking about attaching the console to the ceiling and let it blow cold air down. Should be a nice setup

 

[mmajsw]

While it looks like a good idea, my concern is how many amps will be needed to power the unit? It says up to 1.94kw cooling which will mean a serious amp draw.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Like I stated in the title, I want an independent running AC unit. I sleep in the back. I can fire this up if hot outside, the compressor/fan is not belt driven, just needs power. I'm thinking about attaching the console to the ceiling and let it blow cold air down. Should be a nice setup

I see. Let us know how it works if you go this route.

 

[CruiserDave]

EcoFlow WAVE 2 Portable Air Conditioner with Heater

*For optimal use, a compatible battery may be required and should be purchased separately. WAVE 2 • 5-minute warmth in any compact space. • Fastest Cooling and Heating • Installation-free! Fits Anywhere • 8 Long Hours of Comfort (With Add-on Battery) • 44dB: Perfect For Quiet Sleep • Using R290...

us.ecoflow.com

Why not one of these ecoflow wave units? Can cool and heat and it's portable. Not sure of the cost of the one you've shown so maybe a moot point.

 

[joxeale]

EcoFlow WAVE 2 Portable Air Conditioner with Heater

*For optimal use, a compatible battery may be required and should be purchased separately. WAVE 2 • 5-minute warmth in any compact space. • Fastest Cooling and Heating • Installation-free! Fits Anywhere • 8 Long Hours of Comfort (With Add-on Battery) • 44dB: Perfect For Quiet Sleep • Using R290...

us.ecoflow.com

Why not one of these ecoflow wave units? Can cool and heat and it's portable. Not sure of the cost of the one you've shown so maybe a moot point.

It sounds like a good option but they're bulky, expensive, take a lot of space, have big ducts and not to mention they're only 2800btus. These setups claim to be 11000 btus (likely they're exaggerating the number *china* but if its HALF of that, its still amazing) and once everything is installed and dialed, there's nothing to setup/breakdown.

 

[joxeale]

Hey, ex-80 now current Sequoia owner here. I saw this on the side and figured I'd chime in. I seriously considered somehow adapting a rear AC system into my 80 and this is by far the best option I've seen for that. I'm trying to remember the room in the 80 engine bay, but I did have a York on mine and am sure that a second AC compressor or additional alternator would go in its place. I forget who makes it, but there is (or was) a kit to mount a 150A Sequoia alternator in place of the stock 80A alternator. The spare tire area is where I'd mount the condenser as well. Re: water tanks... there's a lot of space left under the truck depending on how much you need. Off the top of my head, I think about baffled saddle tanks between the frame and pinch welds that are protected by skids or sliders, or even double as sliders. If you split your water supply into multiple tanks, you have a lot of options.

Not that an electric AC compressor is bad, but I see it as a significant waste of available energy when you think about the engine needing to turn an alternator that produces AC current, the loss in converting it to DC current, the loss in that going into a battery, and then the loss in the motor spinning the compressor when the engine can just turn the compressor directly. That's all moot if you want AC with the engine off, though.

BTW- rear AC is exquisite. Between that and UV rejecting tint, it's an icebox in there even on 100 degree days.

I appreciate the reply. I think I should clarify a little of what i'm running. I'm proud of my setup, I have 280ah battery cells in the back that can charge using a 100w solar panel (I know, very small), from the alternator when engine is running (I have a 40a dc to dc charger/ 150a upgraded alternator on the 80) and also a 110v to 12v charger that goes up to 45a. I think if it does provide more than 5k BTUs, at 500w (I may be wrong but it should pull a little over 40ah) I should be able to run it a good amount of time, make the cab super cold and turn it off and on as needed.

There's a bunch of options for that kind of setup on ebay too, that can pull less but some of them are not very clear as far as specs. I'm still evaluating all of this of course, doing the math to see if I have the space for all the crap and the power to move it for a decent amount of time.

 

[hatzlibutzli]

To get the physics right: 1960W @12 V = 164 A draw (not calculating the losses in maybe to tiny cables) ... thats in the region of a DC winch ... if you let it run for one hour your 280Ah battery has only 116 Ah left (if its LiFePo, where you can use all of it, when its lead, then you should switch off and reload) ... your 100WP solar panel provides in theory a maximum current of 8,3 A, which means a 5% runtime increase in full sun (you need 20+ solar panels to get it running permanently!) When your car is running, you can prolong the running time by almost 25%.

Think it over again!

Regards from the bavarian alps ... Simon

 

[joxeale]

To get the physics right: 1960W @12 V = 164 A draw (not calculating the losses in maybe to tiny cables) ... thats in the region of a DC winch ... if you let it run for one hour your 280Ah battery has only 116 Ah left (if its LiFePo, where you can use all of it, when its lead, then you should switch off and reload) ... your 100WP solar panel provides in theory a maximum current of 8,3 A, which means a 5% runtime increase in full sun (you need 20+ solar panels to get it running permanently!) When your car is running, you can prolong the running time by almost 25%.

Think it over again!

Regards from the bavarian alps ... Simon

Where did you get 1960w from? It says it is RATED for 792W so how would it go up that high? 790w is still high, however, that should be it working on full blast, all night/day, which is not a reality. I could even add a thermostat switch that could kill it once a certain temperature is achieved. My batteries are LifePo and could easily add a portable extra 280ah if needed.

Also, it says it cools up to 2000w which I think its around 6000BTU, it should have the cab ice cold in less than an hour, maybe half, easily.

 

[jonheld]

Where did you get 1960w from?

He was looking at the compressor specification. Personally, that's what I would have used as well for load calculations.

 

[joxeale]

He was looking at the compressor specification. Personally, that's what I would have used as well for load calculations.

I don't see that anywhere in the messy ad. Screenshot? I was going off of the rated power, I assumed that was the rated power for the whole setup.

 

[jonheld]

I don't see that anywhere in the messy ad. Screenshot? I was going off of the rated power, I assumed that was the rated power for the whole setup.

Under "product description" as you scroll down. His calculations should have been based on 1940W, but it's close enough.

Scroll Compressor Specification
Cooling capacity: 1.94kw maximum
Rated voltage: 12v

 

[hatzlibutzli]

There are those unbelievable physical wonders: produce 2000 W of cooling capacity from only 792 W of power input ... maybe the producer is aiming for the next nobelprice by challanging the principles of thermodynamics ... the law of conservation of energy was found by von Helmholtz some 150 years ago and is still unchallenged. By the way: even if its only 800W and some cable losses your battery and charging capacity seems insufficient to me.
Why do you think automotive air conditioning is usually driven by the crankshaft and the powerloss, when the AC clutch engages is noticeable in most cars .... ?!?
Have you ever noticed the range loss when switching on AC in an electric car ... ?!?

Regards from the land of Helmholtz ... Simon

 

[mudgudgeon]

These setups claim to be 11000 btus (likely they're exaggerating the number *china*

I would assume this number is heavily exaggerated, and the amount of power required to run it is understated.

AC uses a lot of power. I think you would need to look at multiple batteries, battery management system and charging system.

A car fridge is basically a heavily insulated, climate controlled box, a fraction of the size of your uninsulated car/ box.
A fridge will drain a battery to maintain temperatures.

From the ebay listing

They state
12v/24v
33A/66A
792w

This implies 33 amps at 12 volts, but it's the opposite. 12V/66A = 792watts

Thats equivelant of running 8 high beam headlamps.
Or, 1½ hrs run time from a 100amp/hr battery if its running on full, and not cycling on and off.

 

[joxeale]

I would assume this number is heavily exaggerated, and the amount of power required to run it is understated.

AC uses a lot of power. I think you would need to look at multiple batteries, battery management system and charging system.

A car fridge is basically a heavily insulated, climate controlled box, a fraction of the size of your uninsulated car/ box.
A fridge will drain a battery to maintain temperatures.

From the ebay listing
View attachment 3675922

They state
12v/24v
33A/66A
792w

This implies 33 amps at 12 volts, but it's the opposite. 12V/66A = 792watts

Thats equivelant of running 8 high beam headlamps.
Or, 1½ hrs run time from a 100amp/hr battery if its running on full, and not cycling on and off.

That's closer to what I was assuming it would be but apparently it doesn't align with the laws of thermodynamics, so who knows?

 

[sbman]

That's closer to what I was assuming it would be but apparently it doesn't align with the laws of thermodynamics, so who knows?

An A/C is a heat pump, it is not creating cool air from nowhere, it is pumping heat out of one place into another. It is MOVING 2000W of heat using 700W of power. If t hose are the real numbers, it's actually terribly inefficient, a 400W mini split can do a lot better.

 

[joxeale]

An A/C is a heat pump, it is not creating cool air from nowhere, it is pumping heat out of one place into another. It is MOVING 2000W of heat using 700W of power. If t hose are the real numbers, it's actually terribly inefficient, a 400W mini split can do a lot better.

I have no clue of the power consumption at all. It might be terribly inneficient, I know nothing, reason why I created this thread. A joke here and there don't hurt, right?