OME lift (1 Viewer)

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Behind the zion curtain, Utah
Happy new year!
I'm going to install the OME lift on my 85 fj60, as I have never done it before was wondering if any of you had any advise? or perhaps had a link I could look at?
I should mention that I got the complete kit from Kurt at including u bolts/shocks/shackles/springs/steering stablizer...


http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/

Thanks
 
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Hi gdtrfb, use the search and you'll find everything you need to know. This has been covered extensively.
 
I'd hit all the bolts you need to remove and replace with PB blaster every day for a couple days to loosen up all the grit in there and make removal alot more pleasant. Take your time and note the drivers side springs and passenger side springs IIRC they are slightly different lengths. People have reported a "sag" to one side when they are backwards.

Good Luck!
 
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Good choice of vendor! I will second what red cruiser and brokenparts have said. Good luck and be sure to post b/f and after pics!!!
 
air tools are your friend
i used a sawzall and cut out a little section in the old busings and they popped right out
 
The hardest part is the old bushing. I used a torch and heat the bushing till the almost catch fire and then they will come loose.
 
Thanks every one and Thanks Gordon, great post/link, I've been at it for about3 hours and got most all the rear bolts loose, and the drivers side shackle is almoat off, now the fun begins the front bushings on the rear spring are stuck, I've managed to move the bolt about 1/4" out then it stopped, need to get some more propane tomorrow, besides its dark and cold out... hear that??.... there some Jager calling me...
leftrear.jpg
leftrearfront.jpg
 
I didn't have a torch when I did mine - just jammed a screwdriver in to loosen the shackle pin and used a drift to get it all the way out. Not elegant, but then again I work without fire.

Looks like you're doing well - took me two good days of work and dicking around to get it right. Keep checking in and have a cold beer handy at all times.
 
I just did the full OME swap last month on my fj62. It also took me two days to get it together but I think you can do it in a day. I agree with the other posts....have plenty of penetrating spray handy, make sure you have drop cloths on the ground if you are working in your garage (lots of dirt and grime), air tools will save you a lot of hassle. I had a tough time getting the rear leaf locating pin into the locating hole but with a little patience and lifting the leaf to the right height you can work it in. Note: watch out when you torque down the bolts on the rear shackles! I sheared off the nut of the small bolt 2 times (I removed and replaced the rear set up twice and each time I snapped one nut). Luckly I had a spare from a old shackle.

Lastly, get your arm ready for a workout when you torque the U-bolts. I zapped them on with air but it only went so far, I had to finish them by hand (my manual showed 100ft lb.)
 
With all this good advice how could you go wrong. I would have suggested a hacksaw instead of all the penetrating oil. i had the old stuff out in minutes. The u bolts took about 2 minutes a piece.

This may still be helpful. I torqued on my ubolts and till they were very snug then drove down to the local tire place and they tighten up with the pneumatic gun in about 5 minutes for nothing more than a hand shake.

Good luck and enjoy the lift

BTW: No... 33s won't rub. Go for it.
 
Day 2,neanderthal type conditions, got one spring in, discovered the exhaust was bad from the cat back so I installed a used one I had from a previous 60, after some cleaning on the joint it bolted right up, the rr spring is almost off, its time to be a parent again,
Thanks again for all the advice enjoy the pictures
Wolf
thisam.jpg
snow2.jpg
lrspring.jpg
 
On a technical note, I used a brake cyl hone to clean the bushing eyes, that worked well, I couldnt line up the ubolts and lower shock mounts untill I dropped the other side off of the u bolts. I left everything finger tight and will torque it all down when the right side is in. My compressor only puts out about 100psi so I have to break everything loose, then I can use the air. I decided to remove the mud flaps, seems like they just trap moisture and then rust.
This beast came from Denver, so its pretty rust free and I'd like to keep it that way. So far I've done the front end, that is to say new steering box, tie rod ends and drag link, Had a friend adjust the valves. I put the zerk fitting to the outside of the rig, seems like it will be easier to grease that way instead of having to remove the spare tire every time. I lubed the chain and the crank on the tire hoist last summer, it came right out yesterday. I also removed all the door panels and lubed the window cranks and lock mechinism, its amazing what a little grease can do.


and so it goes
 
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Looks great man...When are we going to try it out?
 
damn dude your nuts
it looks cooooooooooold

i wont even do my exhaust manifold till it warms up



and oh yah its way easier to line up all the holes if you throw a little two ton or any jack with wheels under the axle and use as necessary
 
damn dude your nuts
it looks cooooooooooold

i wont even do my exhaust manifold till it warms up



and oh yah its way easier to line up all the holes if you throw a little two ton or any jack with wheels under the axle and use as necessary
yeah well...it was warm when I started carharts go a long way to keeping it tolerable
 

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