OME just installed... what tha?

[89FJ62]

Four questions for all you Masters of Mud.

Regarding my '89...

1) Just installed OME light front springs, med rear springs/shackles and med shocks all the way around and am experiencing a lot of bounce in the ride. Only have about 300 miles on the turck so far. Off road the truck handles like a dream, but just wondering if the springs will "settle" so in-town driving isn't so bouncy.

2) After the OME install, I think there's a lot more body roll and understeer now than there used to be. I know the extra 2.5 lift will contribute to that, but figured the new springs/shocks would at least feel the same if not better regarding cornering ability. What should I expect? Note: I have POS tires on the truck now. See question #3.

3) I'd like to buy some Dueler Revos for the truck. Anybody know what is the tallest 10.5" they make? Are metric sizes available in taller tires?

3) Another thing: I'm getting vibration around 20mph up to 40 mph. The archived discussions say that a 2.5 lift shouldn't aggravate the old UJ's, but the truck has 120k on it and I'm pretty sure they are original. Think replacing them will take care of the problem?

Thanks,
Grasshopper

 

[dd113]

The bounce is normal. It will go away a bit over time. The understeer; did you install shims in the ft spring packs? If not that is the issue. Also, if the ft end is worn any lift will cause it to feel "worse" than it was before. The body roll I am unsure of. Did you lenghten the ft/rr sway bar links and replace all the bushings on both links on both ends? Vibration is the same as ft end. If you had a small issue before it will be magnified with the lift. I would check pinion nuts first then replace U joints. Could also be output bearing on the transfer.

 

[dogboy2]

...just wondering if the springs will "settle" so in-town driving isn't so bouncy.

Yes, they will settle with a little more drive time on the suspension. Flexing the suspension over varied terrain will expedite the process (Pacific Northwest logging roads are great for this).

...figured the new springs/shocks would at least feel the same if not better regarding cornering ability.

A similar setup on our '60 did improve the on-road handling characteristics of the truck but some of this gain was offset by the increased ride height and the taller tires (33 x 10.5). Did you replace the bushings on your sway bar? Adding a rear sway bar from a '62 series truck will also help with the highway manners. Ask Lovetoski about this mod.

I'm getting vibration around 20mph up to 40 mph. The archived discussions say that a 2.5 lift shouldn't aggravate the old UJ's, but the truck has 120k on it and I'm pretty sure they are original. Think replacing them will take care of the problem?

You have changed the angles of the drivelines with the new lift and the original u-joints have a wear pattern corresponding to the original geometry. Replace the u-joints and have the driveshafts straightened and balanced and see if this doesn't eliminate your problem. While replacing u-joints is not mechanically difficult, the job is a right BITCH without some specific tools and jigs. Take them to a specialty driveline shop and let them do all of the work -- will save loads of time, sweat, and new swear words. And, OEM OEM OEM OEM on the u-joints: the aftermarket is crap for these.

HTH,
-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[cahilc]

Grasshopper,

1) My OME's(light) settled but not that much, maybe 1/4-1/2 inch. Ride change, marginal with time.

2) Did you install the "military wrap" of the spring in the correct place ?

3) ?

4) Installed any caster shims ? Try 2 degree and see what happens. I know they are not needed and not recommended but they really help.

HTH,
Cahil

 

[dogboy2]

4) Installed any caster shims ? Try 2 degree and see what happens. I know they are not needed and not recommended but they really help.

I disagree on the castor shims. I installed castor shims during the initial install and after fighting shifting springs for a year and some associative handling problems, I removed them after consulting the tech gurus at ARB. The truck actually handles better without them and has eliminated the issues with the spring pack. If you do elect to add them, you will most likely need to change your leaf spring centering bolts out for longer ones that will accomodate the thickness of the shims and allow your centering bolts to nest properly in the spring perches.

I'd try running your suspension first without them and having the castor angle checked by a tire & alignment shop while they align the vehicle after install. If you need them later, it's a very easy add that does not require you to disassemble the entire suspension, just the u-bolts.

Just my 2¢ based on my direct experience with OME springs,

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[lovetoski]

Well, it has been freaking wet in the NW for August...

89fj62 - if you do your UJ's, I had mine done at Drivelines NW. Approx $30. I usually do my own work, but heard this could be a bitch the first time. I drove there in "front wheel drive" and they were done w/in 2 hours. I hindsight, I should have had them balence the driveshaft, as I have some vibration.

I got my rear sway bar from Nix99. It was ~$100. Other used cruiser places had them, but they were the cheapest. They forgot (at first) to get me the brackets that connect the bar to the frame though. I got extended links from MAF (SOR was out).

I did my own alignment for the first year or two, per the recommendations of many on this board. Perhaps I didn't do it right, but after I had a shop do it, it's way better. FWIW, I went to the Firestone on Market Street (they sell Bridgestones) - there's a young guy there who drives a lifted/locked taco - he really worked to make my truck drive right - and it does. Of course, everything else in the steering has been replaced/adjusted. I suggest this because it might give you a clue as to whether the shims are needed.

In any case, as others have pointed out, a lift will only magnify other issues.

I think the tallest 10.5's Bridgstones are 31's. Only a few make 33's in 10.5.

Best Regards,

 

[Rollin'in'Zona]

I did a bunch of OME lifts - FJ40 and FJ60/62 - for a 4x4 tour outfit. The OME setup is just palin bouncy. Period! It will mellow slightly, but don't expect much! After 5 years my 62 is still as harsh as the first month.

On my personal 62, I have med springs up front , and hd in rear! When the truck is loaded to the hilt it works great on the roughest 4x trails!

When I'm cruising around town I throw on some softer shocks. I have ProComps on there now, and though they're a bit rolly, they do not bounce me around like the nitrochagers. One of our 60's had OME springs (med/med I believe) w/ DeutschTech MV1200 shocks (soft!!!) and that truck rode very vevry very well! Probably the best I've experienced in a 60, but it rolled in corners also.

 

[yooper]

When I installed my OME it was HARSH! I was instructed to load the truck down with a lot of weight and drive around for a while to settle them. 500-600 extra pounds after 3 months had NO effect. So I took all the weight out and went wheeling, climbing every poser rock and dropping into every deep rut and pit I could find, flexing the springs as much as possible. About 2 hours of this and it settled right down. Still a little bouncy at 45mph on rough paved roads and still very painful at speed on rutted dirt roads, but MUCH better. So just WHEEL it dude and you'll be set!

 

[Jim_Phillips]

If you decide to change your shocks consider Koni adjustable ones. I changed my springs and had a very bouncy truck. I changed the procomp shocks to Koni and it's much better. It was trial and error but with Max damping the truck bounces much less. (also less body roll whilst cornering)

The advice on the UJs is spot on. Changed mine and the vibration went.