I just bought my first LC (1997), actually I bought it for my wife. I had a Lexus dealership inspect it pre-purchase and found out that the rear engine seal had a slow leak. The service consultant told me that it would cost approximately $800 to fix it, but that it was minor and that he wouldn't worry with it. I took his advice. I've driven the vehicle a few times in the two weeks that we have had it and am so impressed that I am considering buying one for myself. I've found a '94 on the internet. I contacted the seller and he said that it needs a new power steering pump and a differential motor (both of which he will have fixed before purchase). Additionally, he said that it has the normal seepage (he was referring to oil leaks). He described it as nothing major, maybe a few drops on the driveway. He said that a little seepage was normal for a LC of that vintage. This would appear to be consistent with the '97 that I bought. Does this sound normal? Do most or a lot of LC's have similar oil leaks? I apologize if this is a stupid question, but I'm not much of a mechanic, at least not yet. Any assitance you can provide would be helpful.
Oil leak/seepage?
- Thread starter Ben6
- Start date
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Oil weeping or seepage at the rear #1 oil pan arch in a 1FZ is not unusual. It may stay small or progress over time to where you need to bite the bullet and Fix it. The $800 number sounds about right to pay to have it done. It is a big job that takes time and special equipment to raise the engine. It may also require a heat source such as a torch to heat the pans to get the seal to break loose. (Been there just recently 
)
Welcome to the board.
D-
)Welcome to the board.
D-
Hmmmmm,
Me thinks Brent is in need of something soon......
Doing a bit of a butter-up, no?
Me thinks Brent is in need of something soon......
Doing a bit of a butter-up, no?
- Thread starter
- #6
CruiserDan, Thanks for the assistance. However, I have one other question for you. The '94 that I have been looking at has some sort of tinting on the rear window. According to the guy who is selling it (he is a dealer), he doesn't know exactly what it is. He says he doesn't think it is film because you cant scratch it off with a razor blade. He said it appears to be in the glass. It is odd in that a 2 x 7 rectangle space near the center of the window was left untinted.
Although it is not that important, I was wondering if you had ever ran across anything like this. Is it possible that this is original from the factory. The reason I ask is that the guy said he would look around and see if he could find a used rear glass and replace it. I was just wondering if I should let him replace it before I purchase the vehicle or just leave it like it is. If it were original wouldn't I be better off leaving it the way it is?
Although it is not that important, I was wondering if you had ever ran across anything like this. Is it possible that this is original from the factory. The reason I ask is that the guy said he would look around and see if he could find a used rear glass and replace it. I was just wondering if I should let him replace it before I purchase the vehicle or just leave it like it is. If it were original wouldn't I be better off leaving it the way it is?
I or I should say my wife bought a Trecel with the dark tinting on all the windows and half of the windshield. I told the dealer to remove it befor I take delivery. The dealer said "yes". The dealer had to have it sent out to a window tinting vendor and have them remove it as you can't just pull it off. Cost them big $$$ to get it off.
The top center of the rear glass is un-tinted to allow for the third brake light that is mounted on the upper tailgate.
- Thread starter
- #9
From what the guy is telling me, this doesn't have anything to do with the third tail light. It is a few inches above the rear window wiper centered vertically.
I was just afraid that if I had him replace it I might end up with a leak or defroster that didn't work.
I was just afraid that if I had him replace it I might end up with a leak or defroster that didn't work.
Well,
If it's in the middle of the glass, it aint right.
If it's in the middle of the glass, it aint right.
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=11305;start=msg102555#msg102555 date=1076431810]
It may also require a heat source such as a torch to heat the pans to get the seal to break loose. (Been there just recently )
[/quote]
.. Holy shnikies. Plan A, was a razor blade and a screwdriver. Plan B) was Plan A plus a BFH (on lock-down). ...Plan C, me a torch and an aluminum oil pan?? ..can we say "new oil pan from C'dan". I'd love to hear any better suggestions than plan C.
Am I dreaming on Plan A? Sounds like I need the SST at the very least.
Thanks,
R-dos
It may also require a heat source such as a torch to heat the pans to get the seal to break loose. (Been there just recently
)[/quote]
.. Holy shnikies. Plan A, was a razor blade and a screwdriver. Plan B) was Plan A plus a BFH (on lock-down). ...Plan C, me a torch and an aluminum oil pan?? ..can we say "new oil pan from C'dan". I'd love to hear any better suggestions than plan C. Am I dreaming on Plan A? Sounds like I need the SST at the very least.
Thanks,
R-dos
I have the pan seal cutter SST. It did not want to work very well. I found it was gouging the aluminum pan rail when I tried to drive it in. We used an acetylene torch to heat the pan up just enough to get the sealer to break loose. It was a 2 man job. One guy cookin' with gas and another watching to make sure the wrong stuff didn't catch on fire. My friend drove the torch and I wielded an air hose to blow out anything that might get a bit too warm and a big prybar to loosen the pans with.
That sealer gets a death-grip and it is hard to break it loose. Once you get a start it is not too bad.
Maybe the Gummer has some input on alternate methods for this.
That sealer gets a death-grip and it is hard to break it loose. Once you get a start it is not too bad.
Maybe the Gummer has some input on alternate methods for this.
[quote author=Pitbull link=board=2;threadid=11305;start=msg103029#msg103029 date=1076473880]
I have a 95 LC with 134K miles and it does not leak. Hope that helps.
[/quote]
I was gonna say that if it's leaking enough for the salesman to mention it, it might be leaking pretty good. One thing is for sure, take your time in finding your cruiser, there's lots of fish in the sea.
Welcome Ben.
Riley
I have a 95 LC with 134K miles and it does not leak. Hope that helps.
[/quote]
I was gonna say that if it's leaking enough for the salesman to mention it, it might be leaking pretty good. One thing is for sure, take your time in finding your cruiser, there's lots of fish in the sea.
Welcome Ben.
Riley
Plan D:
Cut seal around upper oil pan with a putty knife. Tap around edges of pan with hammer (make sure all bolts are removed). Use bottle jack to push pan off block while pulling on pan from below with hand.
Cut seal around upper oil pan with a putty knife. Tap around edges of pan with hammer (make sure all bolts are removed). Use bottle jack to push pan off block while pulling on pan from below with hand.
Heat got the pan off my old FJ-62.....the only way to go.
