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Congrats. Is it locked? The rear looks almost like it's got 3" or more of lift in that first pic.

Oops, missed this one. More post padding. The rear might look high in that picture because the rear springs were 864s when we bought it. This pic was taken before swapping the springs to 863s later that morning. Maybe that's the reason?
 
Does anyone advocate replacing birfs versus swapping sides if one is clicking?

Cheap = swap. You will be pushing the bearings into a different area of the birf cage. Are you certain this hasn't already been done though? I.e. are you going to be swapping only to then use a worn area? It isn't a job to do for regular entertainment.

I replaced mine when they were clicking. I went with Longfields. The factory birfs clicked at 122K without being maintenanced right. I'm betting I can, with a 60k repack, make the longs go at least that long if not twice as long.

For what Mr. T birfs would have cost me, I put in Longfield birfs & axles. I got the little machined birfield shifter knob too. :-) Whats not to like?

YMMV
 
Thanks--I kinda thought that as well and I would really prefer to do this the right way and not have to break into it again prior to 60K if I can avoid it. I didn't realize there was that much disparity in pricing between OEM and Longfields. wow.


Cheap = swap. You will be pushing the bearings into a different area of the birf cage. Are you certain this hasn't already been done though? I.e. are you going to be swapping only to then use a worn area? It isn't a job to do for regular entertainment.

I replaced mine when they were clicking. I went with Longfields. The factory birfs clicked at 122K without being maintenanced right. I'm betting I can, with a 60k repack, make the longs go at least that long if not twice as long.

For what Mr. T birfs would have cost me, I put in Longfield birfs & axles. I got the little machined birfield shifter knob too. :-) Whats not to like?

YMMV
 

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