Off The Beaten Path - A build thread that begins with an engine swap

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Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Threads
7
Messages
73
Location
Bozeman, Montana
Website
www.vinsoncww.com
I couldn't find much specific information on this when I was initially looking for it, so hopefully documenting my experience will assist someone else somewhere down the line....

Story picks up here.....

About a month ago I picked up our most recent Toyota, a '98 LC.
180k on the truck, one owner, primarily in California with a few trips to the old stomping grounds in Big Timber, Montana. They thought it was going to be in their family forever.....You know those pesky little heater hose T's behind the intake along the firewall? Yeah.....I'd probably replace yours if I were you. Or at least pay attention to the engine temperature.... or the coolant level..... or the check engine light.

There are two T's. One of mine was busted, the other wasn't until I touched it. This is what the good one looked like after I pulled it from the truck. I've never seen any fitting look like this, not sure what Toyota did wrong on these.

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I bought it for the price of $2k. One minor problem. Needs a new motor. I talked to the tech at the local Toyota dealership (1/2 mile from my house) who looked it over, and he confirmed that yes, the internals are shot, though no one knows how bad until it gets opened up.

I went the easier route and blindly ordered a used motor from a salvage yard in Washington state (Gundie's if you want to know....). Used motor from a '99 has 138k on it, compression between 210-220 on all 8 cylinders, shipped to my door for $1735.

I looked into putting in a Tundra motor (you can read my thread on that here). Friend that runs a salvage yard and has an interchange book says that a Tundra motor up to build date of 4/2000 will swap in, though you need to retain LC oil pan and exhaust manifolds.

I wanted to eliminate as many variables as possible, so I went with the LC motor instead of a Tundra.
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I've been working like mad during the last month, so the LC was on the back burner.

I picked up the 1998 FSM hard copies off of ebay for about $75- absolutely worth every penny. (With one complaint, and I'll get to that later)

With the FSM, I could knock out a few steps of the process during the evening and literally check them off as I went. Made it much easier to remember what I had done and what I had left to do.

I ticked things off the list as I went and go to the point that I was nearly ready for the big push to do the actual swap. Then I called in for assistance and had my buddy Jamie come over for the day. He thinks this kind of stuff is fun, so it's a perfect project for him :D

First task was to pull this remaining exhaust flange nut. I've never rounded one over this bad. It was perfectly round. That kind of work takes real talent, not everybody can do that with a 6 point socket! We ended up grinding through it with a die grinder and dremel. Not a ton of room to work up there.
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The main trouble we ran into was this- the FSM instructs you to pull the engine/transmission/transfer case as one unit. Well, that might work in a Toyota service bay, but that wasn't where I was working. I don't know what lift they have to work with, but I'm pretty sure it's not this one:

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I borrowed the hoist from a friend because I didn't feel the need to go buy one for one project. On the other hand, this project was asking a lot of this hoist. We had the feet extended as far as they would go, and most of the time we had the boom set at the 1 ton setting. However, this didn't afford us the reach we needed to pick the engine/trans assembly perfectly vertically from the engine bay. It wanted to pull the engine forward with the chain at an angle. This wound up pulling the hoist into the bumper and putting a lot of pressure on it, causing this little doozy which we didn't notice til it was too late. Glad those aren't my plates.

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However, it soon became crystal clear that this hoist was not going to be able to pull the entire assembly out of the engine bay and clear the grille. So after much debate, we went with plan B. We lowered the engine until the oil pan rested on the IFS crossmember. Then we secured the transmission and t-case where they were at and pulled all the bell housing bolts. This worked, though not well. It was difficult to line the bell housing back up with the crankcase when we put the replacement motor in.
 
Here's a question I have- A friend of a friend, who is some kind of actual employed mechanic, suggested that I go back into the bell housing, pull the 6 flywheel to torque convertor bolts and see if I can turn the torque convertor independent of the flywheel. This would just ensure that everything lined up where it should be and nothing is bound up without my knowing it. Plus, if I need to realign something, now would be the time to do it, before I have everything bolted back in place. Right now, nothing is bolted in except the bell housing bolts. The engine is resting on the mounts and the trans is supported from underneath. Thoughts???
 
Mid-week update:

-Double checked the flywheel to torque convertor connection. All is good, as it should be.

-Realized as we pulled the new motor off of the pallet and to pick it up and put it in the truck that the oil pan was mashed during shipping. Doh! Didn't catch it upon delivery, so the salvage yard didn't want to help too much. He gave me $100 back, which I thought was generous, given the situation.

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-Lifted new motor off of motor mounts while in the truck to remove the oil pan. Need to lift motor to clear axle housing and oil sump pickup.

-Realized after pulling oil pan that the sump is also damaged. Doh! *(&$%^

-Replacing this requires pulling upper oil pan..... bummer.

-In my dejection, I decided to spend money. Called "Beno" down at Toyota in Georgia somewhere.....and ordered up all my parts. Awesome guy, super helpful and a healthy MUD discount!!!! Parts should be here by the end of the week. This includes all of my timing belt/water pump parts and my new heater hoses and connections.

-Dropped off radiator to have it steam cleaned and pressure tested.

-Got a call from Don's Radiator - Fail. Upper hose neck is disintegrating (similar to heater T's) and filler neck is cracked.

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-In my dejection, I spent more money. Ordered radiator from Cruiser Parts in NH. Low mileage used radiator, with 1 year warranty, shipped to my door for $145. List price on a new part is $430.

-Started disassembling busted motor. Pulled off all the good parts and practiced for my timing belt replacement. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have messed with all of this stuff with the replacement motor out of the truck, but so be it, I didn't. Timing belt won't be a big deal, oil pan will be a pain.

-In my pulling parts off, I found that I now have a nearly brand new starter to put on my shelf for a rainy day project.... hopefully a long way off.

Tomorrow: pull oil pan from new motor, clean up gasket surfaces, hope parts show up from Georgia!
 
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looking forward to reading more.
 
This is really good to read and I am anxiously waiting to see how things go, what other problems you run into and any lessons learned if you were to do it again.. add lots of pics if you can. I have an LC and LX and will be swapping my drivetrain over to the lx in about a year - lx has 300K miles on it and the lc about 150K.. figured easier that body swap, but I have a year to think about it.. in the meantime, lc body is buggered, might to a body chop and conversion to double cab pickup, single cab with a deck or 'shorten' the length and hack off the back end behind the second row.

in the meantime, I will be following your engine swap intensively.. thanks for documenting and diving into it.
 
Intermission for timing belt installation question:

If I install the timing belt with the marks on the timing belt matched to their coresponding marks on the camshaft and crank pulleys, there is no way it can be mis-timed, correct?

I'm wondering because.....well, I didn't set the timing at any certain point on the crank pulley before I removed the old belt. So, the timing mark on the cover looks wrong, though the belt is on the right marks on the toothed cogs. Make sense?
 
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