OEM shock/strut replacement (1 Viewer)

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My 08 LC has just over 201k on its original suspension. Still drives pretty decent but could only imagine how it feels with new parts fitted. Toyota sells for reasonable prices. Now giving that I live in New England with rust at its minimum. Rust is present on the kdss adjustment screws. Been soaking with penetrating oil and have mapp gas available. Do you think I actually need to touch it? Have anyone had to when swapping out oem parts? Just shocks/struts. No coils. We all know that shocks don't make a lift just the springs. Thanks
 
I looked at the FSM for my 2020 model and it has opening the KDSS as part of the procedure (along with removing the stabilizer link, etc.).

But I've only ever changed shocks on a 100 series, so I have no practical experience to say if it's truly necessary on a 200, or if there is a work-around.

Hopefully some one with knowledge of actually performing this will chime in soon.
 
Your bigger issue might be getting the LCA pivot bolts to move so you can swing the arm down enough to get the strut out and back in. Per the manual you do need to open KDSS but it has been done without. But getting those arms to swing down can be a serious challenge if the inner sleeves are rusted to the crossmember.
 
Your bigger issue might be getting the LCA pivot bolts to move so you can swing the arm down enough to get the strut out and back in. Per the manual you do need to open KDSS but it has been done without. But getting those arms to swing down can be a serious challenge if the inner sleeves are rusted to the crossmember.
Oh wow thanks.
 
Before you order anything, make sure you can pop the KDSS valves free. I would think twice about using a torch on the valves, might not turn out well (high pressure hydraulic fluid).

I also had one of the LCA that was frozen, PIA.
 
I get it bro. No rush to get done. Just want too.

You've got me looking at shocks/springs again. At 10+ years old, my front springs are sagging despite the OEM spacer, and the Bilstein's on the center perch. Also to your original question, you should release the KDSS system pressure when you work on the suspension. That said, look at early posts in this section, some didn't as they were wary of the KDSS. Much has been learned since then.
 
I just put a lift on and even with the KDSS opened three turns we still had some issues with the KDSS. (Here is the link to my post about it: Suspension and UCA Installation (Dobinson’s/SPC in my case, but the lessons likely apply to others.) Having tried it first the more normal way, when you do the front coil overs I would not do it any other way that the way we ended up doing it. ) Once you get them open, and the rust cleaned up, I suggest slathering marine grease all over the KDSS valve to prevent it from building up again. Wipes off easily if you have to work on it but stays on better than products like Fluid Film.
 
I just put a lift on and even with the KDSS opened three turns we still had some issues with the KDSS. (Here is the link to my post about it: Suspension and UCA Installation (Dobinson’s/SPC in my case, but the lessons likely apply to others.) Having tried it first the more normal way, when you do the front coil overs I would not do it any other way that the way we ended up doing it. ) Once you get them open, and the rust cleaned up, I suggest slathering marine grease all over the KDSS valve to prevent it from building up again. Wipes off easily if you have to work on it but stays on better than products like Fluid Film.
Wow thanks for the link
 

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