OEM Shock longevity and failure mode?

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re_guderian

re_guderian

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What causes the internal nut to come of the bottom of the shaft of an OEM from shock? I've had two do this. They're cheap, and they ride great, but they aren't living up to much abuse. This happened to an ~2 yr old shock, after about 30 miles of (probably too fast) crappy, washboard road (Fossil Creek rd from Camp Verde). Upon jacking up the front, the control arms drooped way past normal and the seal blew, spewing shock oil all over. Might be time for some Timbrens...
20150702_191005[1].webp
 
How will Timbrens help?
 
Well the shocks shouldn't be bottoming out if the factory bump stops are in place.
 
re_guderian said:
What causes the internal nut to come of the bottom of the shaft of an OEM from shock? I've had two do this. They're cheap, and they ride great, but they aren't living up to much abuse. This happened to an ~2 yr old shock, after about 30 miles of (probably too fast) crappy, washboard road (Fossil Creek rd from Camp Verde). Upon jacking up the front, the control arms drooped way past normal and the seal blew, spewing shock oil all over. Might be time for some Timbrens...View attachment 1107404
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If the control arm drooped-out beyond normal limits you need limit straps, not bump stops.

It also begs the question: What OEM part(s) are missing up front that are allowing you to get excessive droop in the first place?


-G
 
Isn't the shock the droop limiter in an OEM setup? Pretty sure I was missing the nut on the bottom of the OEM shock shaft...

I also don't know if it's a nut, or whether the shaft threads into a valve piece, etc. I'm not familiar with shock internals, hence my question.
 
re_guderian said:
Isn't the shock the droop limiter in an OEM setup? Pretty sure I was missing the nut on the bottom of the OEM shock shaft...
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I don't know, but I would hope Toyota would be smarter than that....

"topping out" a shock can do just as much damage as "bottoming out" a shock. Think of the amount of unsprung mass that is yanking on that poor shock when you are airborne (wheel, tire, control arms, steering arms, brakes). If it doesn't blow out the shock internally, it certainly is putting a lot of stress on the mounting points (upper and lower) for that shock.

Look at any modern desert truck or enthusiast-built sand toy and you'll see limit straps for the shocks. They are cheap insurance.... especially if you like hooning off the big bumps. :)

Ultimately, I'd still want to understand more about how Toyota limits suspension droop from the factory just to confirm that there isn't an even simpler fix available.


-G
 
I'm pretty sure the bump stop on the LCA limits compression, and the shock limits droop on an OEM setup. Without the shock bolted up, the wheel drops a bit more, just from observations on the jack stands...
 
I've sheard several OEM (or close to) shocks on a different truck and it's always been aggressive up and down travel that caused it to fail.

I would try a better shock that can handle the abuse.
 
I had the exact same failure - 2 year old OEM shock in PS front, soon after a mild forest service run I felt something off up there, jacked it up and the seal blew.

I am running stock torsion bars, cranked to about 1" above stock height. Wonder if this had anything to do with it? Would it stress the seal or nut to be constantly at slightly extended length? Not that 1" is that much.

I switched to OMEs and have had no issues, other than a harsher ride for a significant price increase...
 
DFXR said:
I am running stock torsion bars, cranked to about 1" above stock height. Wonder if this had anything to do with it? Would it stress the seal or nut to be constantly at slightly extended length? Not that 1" is that much.
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Hmmm....

Well if you lifted the suspension 1" and didn't do anything different with the shocks, then logically you've got an extra 1" of chrome showing at ride height. It stands to reason that the shock will run out of travel (droop) 1" sooner than it used to.... So if the factory design had a built-in droop stop somewhere, the shock may be "topped out" before you actually reach it.

I don't recall how much threaded area is available at the top of the OEM shock mount, but it would sure be nice if you could fit a 1" spacer in there to move the shock back down to its original installed height (at ride height).

-G
 
GregLCA said:
HI don't recall how much threaded area is available at the top of the OEM shock mount, but it would sure be nice if you could fit a 1" spacer in there to move the shock back down to its original installed height (at ride height).
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Having just replaced all four on mine I can tell you there might be 1/4" available.
 
crimsonaudio said:
Having just replaced all four on mine I can tell you there might be 1/4" available.
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Yeah.... The more I thought about my previous comment it actually doesn't make any sense.

With a traditional lift kit you change the relationship between the ride height and the shock. Cranking torsion bars doesn't change the relationship at all... Just the balance of bump vs droop available at ride height.

My bad.

-G
 
If the shock is moving fast enough by the time it tops out due to drop to break the shaft the damping is blown and the shock useless anyway. The rebound damping should slow the shock. Same with compression. Of course you can slam the bumps if you try hard enough but a properly functioning damper should reduce end stroke forces on both ends. I wouldn't be surprised if extended fast washboard runs with stock dampers over heats the oil and kills the damping and thus creating undamped impacts at both end strokes. Difference is bums tops handle compression while the shaft nut gets slammed with each pot hole extension. Until it rips off.
 
30 miles, so probably 45minutes of washboard hammering. No wonder the mall shocks die a oily death. Don't get me wrong I'd be right behind you with my OEM's too but..... And in two years how many times does the washboard rally happen? Probably time for better shocks with larger oil volume and better dampers.
 
cap80 said:
30 miles, so probably 45minutes of washboard hammering. No wonder the mall shocks die a oily death. Don't get me wrong I'd be right behind you with my OEM's too but..... And in two years how many times does the washboard rally happen? Probably time for better shocks with larger oil volume and better dampers.
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Has anyone found a 100% bolt-in reservoir shock for these trucks? King? Fox? etc.

I remember seeing a thread here somewhere where somebody was working to get custom valving done with either Fox or King, but they weren't impressed with the support they were receiving.


-G
 
Icon I believe has a direct fit resi shock. Right? The iron man foam cell pros that someone posted recently are definetly a larger volume heavier duty damper. No remote resi though, but they claim better heat dispersion.
 
I think the Slee shocks are direct OEM replacements.
 
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