Odd fj60 PS leak, here is what I found

[Landpimp]

Something to look at on a 60, I was REALLY suprised to find the leak and rust.

fj60, low presure PS cooler tube, runs along the front of the frame under the radiator. I have just gotten a small leak, after removing the damn foam around it and getting the bolts off it looks like it has rusted thru on the corner(pass side where it makes the bend on under the rad) only a small spot, rest of the tube looks great(ie no rust) All I can think is the foam held the water in and caused it to rust(as I have no rust anyplace else on the cruiser)

So my options are,

1. get a new cooler tube for $150!!! looks like the rad needs to come out to get it all the way out and replace, anyone know for sure? This is prolly the most correct option, but spendy and a PITA

2. replace or bypass the tube and use a small trany cooler(which is how I did my 82 fj40 OEM PS) this will work but I have to find a place to mount it, running out of room, not wild about this but I like it better than #1

3. and I like this idea the best but maybe I am missing something. Cut out the part of the tube with rust, which meens about a 8" piece(to get to it better on each side) and replace the metal with some low presure PS hose. One thing I noticed(looking at a fj40 tube) is that the ends of the OEM tube are flared to help it seal, if I just cut it I can't make a flare, I will just have to hose clamp it......which I am pretty sure will work. No room to get a flare tool in there.


Thoughts? #3 a dumb idea or will it work fine?

I hate leaks, its not a big one but it makes me unhappy as I have just de-leaked the rest of the 60.

BTW I am going with option #3 I see no reason it won't work just fine.
__________________

 

[treerootCO]

#4 find a good used one on the board. I'll look at my crushed 60 and see if the hard line survived. Free to a good home if I have one and it is in good shape.

 

[swank60]

#3 is a good idea all the way around because you can try it, and if you don't like it or it doesn't work, you can try #2 or #1.

Also, if you're having space issues, I'll play devil's advocate here and say #1 may be your best option if #3 doens't work.

 

[Landpimp]

sure, if its in good shape I'll take it. I did figure that I would come across a nice used one someday and fix it right but my getto fab will prolly work just fine. I do think I can get the old one out and new in without pull the rad(which I just replaced not long ago)

I sudjest others take alook at the tube on there 60's as my cruiser is rust free with only 100k and sure as s***.......the tube is rusted! I think mine has been leaking a tiny bit for sometime, the foam was SOAKED in trany fluid, I could have rung out the foam and filled a can.

#4 find a good used one on the board. I'll look at my crushed 60 and see if the hard line survived. Free to a good home if I have one and it is in good shape.

 

[Man Jerk]

Yea, the rad has to come out All in all not a difficult job, just a PITA

 

[Landpimp]

Oh I know its not hard, I have pulled WAY to many, just that mine is new, added dual batts at the same time, so the damn trays have to come out, ect ect ect

Actaully I found a perfect spot for a trany cooler(PS cooler) but I'll cut and paste and see how that works 1st

Yea, the rad has to come out All in all not a difficult job, just a PITA

 

[nuclearlemon]

if it's on the return loop, no problem, but you might find someone to flare it if it's on the pressure side.

 

[Landpimp]

yep, low presure side, a 62 would be high presure(pump otherside from PS box)

stupid question, ATF or PS fluid isnt flamible is it? figured I would hack saw, sawzall or cutting wheel the offending part off......I don't feel like catching on fire

if it's on the return loop, no problem, but you might find someone to flare it if it's on the pressure side.

 

[Jman]

How big is the hole? Can you just braze it?

 

[hj60]

yep, low presure side, a 62 would be high presure(pump otherside from PS box)

stupid question, ATF or PS fluid isnt flamible is it? figured I would hack saw, sawzall or cutting wheel the offending part off......I don't feel like catching on fire

Petroleum distillates my friend.
ATF will fuel a diesel. Most PS fluids are similar chemically.

 

[Benji]

Go with the cheap and easy fix and save #1 for when you are forced to take the rad out.

Just an aside: My buddies ford exporer AC condensor was wrapped in a foam rubber substance for some wierd reason. It came like that from the factory. Well, after a few years of condensation build up the thing rusted to hell. The fix was to install a new one and leave off the foam covering.

I wonder if you could get by without the foam covering LP? Is it really necessary?

 

[cahilc]

LP.

I would recommend the same techique to fix your PS hose as to fix leaking/broken brake hydralic hoses. Brakes are a more common a repair but the same technique should work.

Cheers,
Cahil

P.S. To be extra safe ... have a can handy of "Fire-Be-Gone".
:+)

 

[Landpimp]

and what is that?

PS goes out no biggy, brakes go out BIGGY

AFIAC there is no need for the foam

LP.

I would recommend the same techique to fix your PS hose as to fix leaking/broken brake hydralic hoses. Brakes are a more common a repair but the same technique should work.

Cheers,
Cahil

P.S. To be extra safe ... have a can handy of "Fire-Be-Gone".
:+)

 

[Rollin'in'Zona]

Something to look at on a 60, I was REALLY suprised to find the leak and rust.

fj60, low presure PS cooler tube, runs along the front of the frame under the radiator. I have just gotten a small leak, after removing the damn foam around it and getting the bolts off it looks like it has rusted thru on the corner(pass side where it makes the bend on under the rad) only a small spot, rest of the tube looks great(ie no rust) All I can think is the foam held the water in and caused it to rust(as I have no rust anyplace else on the cruiser)

So my options are,

1. get a new cooler tube for $150!!! looks like the rad needs to come out to get it all the way out and replace, anyone know for sure? This is prolly the most correct option, but spendy and a PITA

2. replace or bypass the tube and use a small trany cooler(which is how I did my 82 fj40 OEM PS) this will work but I have to find a place to mount it, running out of room, not wild about this but I like it better than #1

3. and I like this idea the best but maybe I am missing something. Cut out the part of the tube with rust, which meens about a 8" piece(to get to it better on each side) and replace the metal with some low presure PS hose. One thing I noticed(looking at a fj40 tube) is that the ends of the OEM tube are flared to help it seal, if I just cut it I can't make a flare, I will just have to hose clamp it......which I am pretty sure will work. No room to get a flare tool in there.


Thoughts? #3 a dumb idea or will it work fine?

I hate leaks, its not a big one but it makes me unhappy as I have just de-leaked the rest of the 60.

BTW I am going with option #3 I see no reason it won't work just fine.
__________________

Check out the PermaCool frame rail coolers on their website. You may be able to replace the bad line w/ one of these. If so, you'd have improved cooling at a fraction of the cost.

One of my 62's had a hydraulic winch powered by the PS pump. I found that my local tractor supply shop could press any hydraulic fitting to any beefy hose for almost nothing! Cheaper and beefier than stock (a rare phenomenon w/ cruisers!)

 

[cahilc]

LP,

I've seen the successful results, but ... I've never done it myself. I have a rear metal brake line which will eventuall need to be patched. When I asked my mechanic ... "Not difficult, but we'll wait to do it ...until it needs it."

Sorry I don't have more specifics but it's familiar repair for metal hydraulic brake lines.

My best guess, cut with wheel ouside of the problem and run brake hose between with plenty of overlap and clamp(double clamp) on either end.

I doubt flairing is possible but it would be desireable.

Cahil

 

[Duster]

Hello everyone. My first post here, though I've been eavesdropping for what seems like an eternity. No excuses, just always categorized myself as hobbyist wrencher with little potential to make any noteworthy contributions.

First, Landpimp, let me join the fray that worships your collection. Seems like something only a Jonathan Ward could obtain: A host of rust-free Cruisers save a 60 with some pin holes in the power steering cooler. Truly something to envy.

As a resident of the rust belt, I've had more than my share of "odd leaks," including one that could only be described as a gusher in the power steering cooler of my 60. It happened, seemingly all at once, a couple of years ago. With the passage of time the details of the repair are a little cloudy, though I know I installed a new OEM cooler without removing the radiator.

If you choose to go OEM replacement, here's what I recall: You can access all the fasteners and wiggle out the old and coax in the new by removing the grill and valence panel. Sort of a PITA with all the fasteners, but it sounds like you won't have to deal with rounded off or corroded heads.

I recall a box wrench on the top and perhaps a socket on the bottom did it nicely for me (10MM?). Best of all, you won't need to deal with a radiator flush and fill. Hope this helps because I'm sure I'm gonna be asking for help in the future.

 

[Landpimp]

pic of the rusted tube, notice the rest of it(that i cut out) looks fine, still shinny black, but rust in poping thru in a few other spots, this was the worst of the pipe, hacked it off, then spliced the hose in, worked fine. and the foam(which I blame) tore it all out