Now this guy is in the 60 series threads? New to me, 1988 FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Threads
70
Messages
1,225
Location
Sedro Woolley, WA
Photos to follow.

Was looking for a manual 4 Runner or a Manual Matrix XRS/Vibe GT (2zzge).... and instead, came across the ad for this yesterday. At the price, I couldn't pass it up. While it isn't a manual, it definitely stands in it's own rightful place of fun/awesome. I made an offer sight unseen (aside from photos), test drove and looked it over in the dark (took all of 15 minutes) and away we went. Price was more than $1500 but less than $4000.

Has some slight issues, and I'm new to 60 series so I wouldn't know, that may or may not be normal.

Nasty exhaust leak - pretty sure it's the 02 sensor/mount. Someone tried to use a worm drive clamp on it and the leak sounds right around there.

Odd electrical gremlins -

oil pressure shows nothing (not that there isn't, the indicator is too low for anything being registered - either a wiring issue or the sensor is shot.... I'll first try to ground the wire out and see if the gauge moves).

High beams don't always kick on - leaving you in the dark. That's fun on an unlit windy road in the rain at night.

Power windows are questionable and the lockout switch is straight up missing.

Dome light is finicky and the cover is shot (most likely the contacts on the dome light are questionable - luckily those are essentially the same in all similar vintage Toyotas, so I can find them easy/cheap if I don't have one lying around already)

A/C is removed

Bevel around the climate control is partially broken/missing/dangling. I can probably use a washer and a longer screw to at least hold it in place, but it isn't a big issue.

A/T shifter is wobbly

The worst 2 things....

Paint is shot (it's been repainted) and there's some minor body work to do. No major rust in the wells nor frame.

Steering is very loose. There's a good 10-20 degrees of steering wheel movement with minimal input from the wheels/tires - which gets a little sketch above 50mph. There's no shake. TRE's are a tad loose, but nothing that would cause this. I think the steering box is loose.

For those that don't know I had a 1970 FJ40 that was a frame off rusto-mod project for 5 years that got a TON of modification work to go together, but the pieces of the puzzle never fit quite right with our life/family. It was a 350/th350 with complete custom cooling system, Megasquirt2 EFI, Metaltech bits (cage/sliders), and more. In 5 years we drove it about 100 miles. I had a 1976 parts FJ40 that had many 'donated' pieces into the 1970.

We also had a 1993 3x 80 series. That was an awesome rig - it was mostly stock aside from some minor electrical upgrades, BFG 33's, Metaltech front bumper, and a winch.

We, for a very short stint, had a 2000 LX470 that was all stock at 240k miles. For 'other' reasons we had to sell it (emotional reasons).

We also have a 2001 LX470... pretty stock aside from Cooper 33s, rear air bags (for towing), some minor electrical upgrades, Lseat front seats, weathertech liners (not sure I'm happy about the 2nd row). It is a very good vehicle and despite what some might say, it wears the LC badge/heritage well. Before even getting the rear air bags it towed a large 27' travel trailer with ease on the freeway- something the others wouldn't be able to do. I also fully expect it to be an excellent winter vehicle with the proper tires now.


Pics of the 62 to follow.
 
It was blue originally, we are thinking gray...

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I fussed with the adjustment screw on top of the steering box (combined with new TREs) and that helped for about six months before one of the seals went out on the box. Sent it out for a rebuilt box at Redhead Steering in Auburn and viola, steering play gone.

If you're looking for new carpet @dnp has a late-floor carpet available in this thread here.

Welcome to 60-land!
 
I fussed with the adjustment screw on top of the steering box (combined with new TREs) and that helped for about six months before one of the seals went out on the box. Sent it out for a rebuilt box at Redhead Steering in Auburn and viola, steering play gone.

If you're looking for new carpet @dnp has a late-floor carpet available in this thread here.

Welcome to 60-land!

Steering is of concern - if there's a way I can fix or rebuild the box myself then I will. I like to know/learn as much as possible on my vehicles.

If anything, the carpet will come out. It's perfectly fine the way it is now, though... and low on our level of concern.
 
Nice truck! It'll be just like that manual transmission Matrix you were seeking, but with 1/3 the gas mileage!

There's no harm in attempting to adjust the steering box. Just go slowly such that if you have largely eliminated play in the 'straight ahead' position that it doesn't bind in the 'fully turned to one side or the other' position. Most box wear occurs in the 'straight ahead' position, and that is why you have to stop adjusting there before you create binding elsewhere.

Nickname it 'Depressed Kermit' and repaint to the OEM color!
 
Nice truck! It'll be just like that manual transmission Matrix you were seeking, but with 1/3 the gas mileage!

I'm well versed in LC mileage..... that's why we also have a 2017 Prius V.....

I still want a manual.... I don't plan to get rid of this as it's an excellent vehicle to teach our (now young.... 6mo and almost 5 yo) boys how to work on vehicles..... and with time I will watch for parts.
 
I was wondering why this CL ad disappeared. Nice score @toyotaspeed90 !

The seller stated he had one potential buyer from Seattle who was supposed to see it today and a couple more over the weekend - that's why I had to make the immediate impulse decision (and luckily I had cash from the sale of the 2000 LX on hand) to get it.

With that said - I drove it about 6 miles on the freeway and I couldn't imagine driving it all that much further on the freeway safely. Steering is loose and it wanders a bit, making it essentially:steer: to go straight-ish.
 
Nickname it 'Depressed Kermit' and repaint to the OEM color!

guess I didn't mention it - the original color is blue.... when it was repainted they did a good job and really got into the door jambs quite well... but it was probably done 10-20 years ago.

We want it to be a dark gray. We like gray around here....
 
the Steering may just be trapped air in the lines. Try jacking up the front end and turning the wheel 20 times from lock to lock.
 
Congrats on the purchase.

All of those are fixable.

Re the steering...there are a number of options, but worn TRE's is a pretty safe place to start. However, before you replace them it's worthwhile to first adjust them. Remove the wheels, remove the cotter pin on the end of the TRE, using a large flat-blade screwdriver, tighten up the end-cap till it's fully seated (bottoms out). Then back off till you can insert the cotter pin, no more than 1/2 turn.
Tightening up the steering box can help a little, but can also accelerate wear if you adjust too much. Do the TRE's and report back.
 
Congrats on the purchase.

All of those are fixable.

Re the steering...there are a number of options, but worn TRE's is a pretty safe place to start. However, before you replace them it's worthwhile to first adjust them. Remove the wheels, remove the cotter pin on the end of the TRE, using a large flat-blade screwdriver, tighten up the end-cap till it's fully seated (bottoms out). Then back off till you can insert the cotter pin, no more than 1/2 turn.
Tightening up the steering box can help a little, but can also accelerate wear if you adjust too much. Do the TRE's and report back.


If I'm going to take the time to pull the wheels and work on the TRE's, for ~$40-50 I might as well just replace them. There doesn't seem to be any side to side slop, there's some rotational slop - the TRE boots aren't full, I might try to first crawl under and just grease them and recheck.
 
TRE set of 4 is ~$100. Most likely yours are worn, so no harm in replacing. But I still recommend doing the adjustment, that way you will know in just a few minutes if that's an important source of the steering slop. If it makes no difference, you need to look elsewhere. If it makes the steering good enough, then you can instead focus on the other things on the punch list.
 
Congrats man, we just picked up our first 60 too... see what I did there ;)

I agree with what has been said above and would suggest the following for your steering...

Check your alignment... really just toe-in (check the FAQ for a DIY method).
Adjust the Drag links... aka Tie Rod ends on the drag link. (steering box to steering arm).
Adjust the drag link bar... to straighten up the steering wheel.
Check all suspension bolts for proper torque (U-bolts, shackle bolts, sprig hanger bolt... shocks and sway bars while you're there).
Adjust Steering box.

Drive...

Adjust, repair, rebuild or replace as needed.

I am steering straight just fine, but the death wobble I am experiencing has my attention. :)
 
Good score and welcome to the land of 4 eyes
 
Found the (major - there are some pinholes that will eventually require new pipe) exhaust leak... plus made things worse!

One of the nuts from the manifold to down pipe was missing and the Oring was mostly blown out.

However the 2 down pipes are connected and when removing the nuts on the 'good' side (though was planning to replace both) snapped the stud.

I have spare new studs lying around, but no PB Blaster in sight....

I'll pick up some oil change stuff, brake fluid (to flush), and the exhaust donuts.


As far as the steering goes - with vehicle off I grabbed the steering shaft and can rotate it by hand (and the steering wheel moves but wheels don't). So, leaning less towards TREs (but still plan to grease them). I'm hoping the adjustment you guys are talking about is on the input side of the steering box...
 
This busted stud is pushing my patience.

PB blaster for several hours, no go.

Little room to access, so I removed the steering shaft heat shield and steering shaft.

No go.

Apply heat from a propane torch (the yellow tank was empty).

No go.

Decide it will probably have to be extracted out of the vehicle... 2 heat shield bolts (the easier to access) no problem - the third... rounded down. Pound an 11mm onto it and, luckily get it out.

EGR tube is stuck, heat shield won't come off.

Looks like I might also have to remove the air pump in order to access one of the manifold bolts.

It's only such a pain because it's like a puzzle that has more pieces to it than you realize and it keeps getting worse.

If I could just drill it out from above in the vehicle I would, then just use a through bolt... but even that doesn't seem possible.
 
Just to provide sonenproof of the insanity.

Loosened the power steering pump to get the belt off... belts off.

Snap the support rod stud on the air pump, oh boy.

Get the manifold out (bolts/nuts for the manifold surprisingly were easy).

No go with the vice grips out of the vehicle...

5 (yes five) attempts to weld a nut (17mm head) to the stud have failed.... at the highest temp my Lincoln 140 can do.

First attempt the weld broke off the nut, making me have to grind it down to get off.

The next 4 attempts (varying heights, depths of nuts and speeds of the wire) break the weld off the stud.

Waiting for attempt #6 to cool down...

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