noob brakes (1 Viewer)

[landcruiser3DP]

looks like i am going in to do brakes for the first time. i loaned it out and when i got it back i had a grinding in the left wheel and it looks like one of the pads is down to the backing plate.
anyway i have extended brake lines on hand, a new lspv and some speed bleeders.
i thought to document the job but as important i'd love any suggestions or explanations from folks that have done this before. like any explanation on how to do the work or thumbnail step by steps is really welcome.
i've got the FSM and also i think i need to pick up some box end wrenches for the brake lines i think?
also any videos on this would be great.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

pics.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

pics

 

[landcruiser3DP]

pics

 

[landcruiser3DP]

pics

 

[CrabCake]

If it were me, I'd get 2 new front rotors...you can turn the one, but should do both to match. By then, it's just easier to replace. You don't want to throw pads on there with the scraped up inner on the one side...it'll pull and be ugly and ruin your new pads.

Since you had heavier wear on just one set of pistons, I'd also consider a caliper rebuild kit with new seals for the pistons...you already plan to have the system open for lines, etc., so it's not such a headache to do this now. A rebuild kit is common on these (and cheap) and should help to even out pad wear in the future.

Tool wise, get a proper set of line wrenches (or at least the one to fit, 10 and/or 12mm I believe, but double check that).

Good that you have the FSM, follow the bleed instructions to do each caliper and LSPV in proper sequence. You may need to bleed quite a bit, so have plenty of fluid to do this as the line from the LSPV runs all the way back to the front, so it has more line length than most to bleed out when opening the system at multiple points.

Probably some vids out there, but it's a pretty straight forward job, just time, common sense, FSM, and patience.

Now it's time for me to go out and replace my front axle seal...that'll be fun in this heat!

Update....be sure to follow proper torque settings too! The caliper bolts are famous for backing themselves out if you do not torque properly.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

If it were me, I'd get 2 new front rotors...you can turn the one, but should do both to match. By then, it's just easier to replace. You don't want to throw pads on there with the scraped up inner on the one side...it'll pull and be ugly and ruin your new pads.

Since you had heavier wear on just one set of pistons, I'd also consider a caliper rebuild kit with new seals for the pistons...you already plan to have the system open for lines, etc., so it's not such a headache to do this now. A rebuild kit is common on these (and cheap) and should help to even out pad wear in the future.

Tool wise, get a proper set of line wrenches (or at least the one to fit, 10 and/or 12mm I believe, but double check that).

Good that you have the FSM, follow the bleed instructions to do each caliper and LSPV in proper sequence. You may need to bleed quite a bit, so have plenty of fluid to do this as the line from the LSPV runs all the way back to the front, so it has more line length than most to bleed out when opening the system at multiple points.

Probably some vids out there, but it's a pretty straight forward job, just time, common sense, FSM, and patience.

Now it's time for me to go out and replace my front axle seal...that'll be fun in this heat!

Update....be sure to follow proper torque settings too! The caliper bolts are famous for backing themselves out if you do not torque properly.

hey CC. thanks for this. big help.
so i will try to order rotors and i guess i will put on new calipers then if i have to do rotors.
i will also add brake fluid to my list. i think i thought i would i just need a couple bottles or something so thanks for the advice.
i think my guy at toyota said i needed some box end wrenches or something that were like these weird slotted hexagonal things. he said i might need them to take off the lines or something? anyway i will try to find these.
how do these lists look? i guess i won't need a micrometer or the runout tools or the millimeter ruler.
for the most part i think i have everything else. but i'm not sure what kind of grease i should use for rhe speed bleeders? someone said to grease them so they don't leak or something.
it looks like i will get 4X wheel bearing sets then? and also 8X brake caliper bolts, 2X spindle gaskets, 2X brake backing plate gaskets, 2X spindle lock washers (per the email below)?
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is there a way to get a thumbnail explanation on how to tackle this? like remove brake lines at calipers? drain fluid? remove front calipers and front rotors? install new wheel bearings, remove front lines?
then replace front lines.
the remove lines to LSPV and lines to LSPV. replace LSPV and LSPV lines?
then - put front wheels back on and move jack stands to back of truck?
do the same for rear that i did for the front?
or - well since i have four jack stands should i leave the front wheels off and jack up the back of the truck and get the jack stands that are under the front axle now under the frame at the back so i can access the bleeders all at the same time?
i guess i was hoping to make sure i have a bit of a written rhumbnail strategy for the work.
then i dive into vids and rhe FSM again.

 

[jht3]

i think my guy at toyota said i needed some box end wrenches or something that were like these weird slotted hexagonal things. he said i might need them to take off the lines or something? anyway i will try to find these.

flare nut wrenches, also referred to as line wrenches

is there a way to get a thumbnail explanation on how to tackle this? like remove brake lines at calipers? drain fluid? remove front calipers and front rotors? install new wheel bearings, remove front lines?

Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ

The following thread is compilation from forum members and other sources Please notify the moderators of additions, errors, tips or clarifications you think would help a novice take this on. The following thread is a culmination of posts and threads from many forum members including Semlin...

forum.ih8mud.com

since i have four jack stands should i leave the front wheels off and jack up the back of the truck and get the jack stands that are under the front axle now under the frame at the back so i can access the bleeders all at the same time?

yes, this is what i did when i R&R'd the brakes

but i'm not sure what kind of grease i should use for rhe speed bleeders?

anti-seize. i've never used speed bleeders, but put anti-seize on damn near everything, including the face of the hub to wheel surface.

if you are just doing pads and lines, its an easy job. if you do rotors, its a bunch more work, especially if you've never been in a hub before and set wheel bearing pre-load. will need the 54mm socket for that level of work. and maybe new lock washers, star washers, and hub flange gaskets if yours are beat. and if you are going that far, logic says to do a full knuckle job while you are in there. i don't listen to logic and did calipers/pads, then front rotors, then rear rotors all as seperate jobs, and am prep'ing for a bearing/knuckle job b/c i didn't like what i saw when i was in there.

 

[CrabCake]

I'll follow up with more shortly, but you don't need to replace the calipers, I just suggested rebuilding them with a seal kit...basically some dust boots and o-rings for each piston. I mainly question why you had one pad that was significantly more worn than the rest, indicating a probable caliper issue.

I'm literally in the middle of a knuckle job right now as my axle oil seal leaked into the birf, making it CV grease soup in there. Rotors are a bit more work, and if you do them, I'd at least re-pack the bearings (you'll need new rear grease seals to get the back ones out as you'll ruin the seal upon removal).

At this point for you, I'd probably lay off of the knuckle rebuild unless you are having issues...it's a lot to do all of the brakes and knuckles at the same time, and not the end of the world if you need to re-pull rotors to get to them later.