Noise after new brake booster

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petegangies

petegangies

Joined
Sep 18, 2024
Threads
19
Messages
478
Location
Sydney
G'day team,

I had a new HULK 4X4 heavy duty brake booster fitted 12 months ago when the brake place said my original had failed (only 145,000kms). They also put a new master cylinder as the original didn't bolt up to the new booster. Anyway, my issue is that its now quite noisy pressing the pedal.. particularly at low speeds. I took it back not long after the install and the brake place said it was "just a noisy diaphragm" and to keep driving it and see if it goes away. Anyway, 5,000km later and its still as loud as it was. I've tried lubricating any of the pivot joints etc for pedal but it didnt make a difference. Here's a video I took today:



Should I take this back and insist they install a new booster? I dont particularly love this place after theyd spilled brake fluid on my paint and installed the pedal spring around the wrong way. If there's anything I can check or do to avoid taking it back, I'd love to hear it!

Thanks
Pete
 
Pete, that's the sound of a failed booster. I'm replacing one now for that very reason.
 
Malleus said:
Pete, that's the sound of a failed booster. I'm replacing one now for that very reason.
Click to expand...

Interesting, as the brakes work fine! But since this is under warranty, I will definitely get it replaced, because it doesnt sound normal and after spending some decent coin, it's simply not good enough. I got in touch with the manufacturer, and even they said it's not normal, so have contacted the brake place to request a replacement. Thanks Fred :)

update: the mechanic who supplied and installed the booster has gotten back to me after providing evidence from the manufacturer that the noise is not normal, so they've agreed to replace it. The supplier is out of stock, so might be a few weeks, but at least this will get sorted now. This car loves keeping things interesting haha.
 
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You're very lucky you have one of the 80s you can pull a booster from without disassembling the top of the engine. I have three and every one of them has the engine too close to the brake booster. By several inches. PITA
 
If you unbolt the drivers side engine mount and jack the engine up a bit, you can get the booster out without a ton of drama. Reinstalling is easier with someone on the inside guiding the stud alignment.
 
Guys, I appreciate that there is someone who has been able to do this without drama, but I have three trucks that absolutely cannot be disassembled this way.

When I say inches, I mean 4 inches of overlap. There is no way to move the engine far enough on any of these trucks to get the booster out. I have successfully removed one 1994 booster, without touching anything else in the engine compartment. That booster came straight off the firewall. I was shocked.

The truck was in a salvage yard, and I have that booster on my shelf. I know some trucks are setup this way, because I've seen one, but there are also trucks that are nightmares to get this part out of.
 
If we're talking about a LHD FZJ80L (1997) I pulled my booster out without lifting the engine by it's very tight, multiple attempts wiggling/pushing/pulling/lifting up/down/sideways from different angles, etc. etc. Master cylinder was not disconnected, just pulled forward and inward toward the engine a bit.

Almost gave up trying and was about to use a grinder to take off ~3/16" of an inch from the edge of the intake manifold (that seemed to be the main culprit keeping it from coming out/going in easily) but eventually it came out. Getting the new booster past the intake was easier but it did get scratched on the way in. FWIW

@petegangies : is the booster "new" or rebuilt by a local company?

Can you post up a photo of the booster including any markings, stamps, or labels and showing the back there the halves are crimped together?
 
Kernal said:
If we're talking about a LHD FZJ80L (1997) I pulled my booster out without lifting the engine by it's very tight, multiple attempts wiggling/pushing/pulling/lifting up/down/sideways from different angles, etc. etc. Master cylinder was not disconnected, just pulled forward and inward toward the engine a bit.

Almost gave up trying and was about to use a grinder to take off ~3/16" of an inch from the edge of the intake manifold (that seemed to be the main culprit keeping it from coming out/going in easily) but eventually it came out. Getting the new booster past the intake was easier but it did get scratched on the way in. FWIW

@petegangies : is the booster "new" or rebuilt by a local company?

Can you post up a photo of the booster including any markings, stamps, or labels and showing the back there the halves are crimped together?
Click to expand...

It was brand new, HULK 4x4 brand (not sure if available in the USA). I dont have any images of it from the back, the best I'd have is pictures from the front, and there are zero markings on it. It's plain black. I should have asked for my original brake booster back so I could have inspected it. I'm not 100% convinced it had failed, but had terrible braking performance with a firmish pedal and it kinda happened after a long trip with some towing. I took it in asking for a brake fluid flush and left with a new booster and master cylinder and $1300 less in my pocket.

Twin Diaphragm Booster - Landcruiser 80 Series - Hulk - https://www.hulk4x4.com.au/twin-diaphragm-booster-landcruiser-80-series?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20234495683&gbraid=0AAAAApmlquLxlcfDubuQ8iZs6ObNwJ59a
 
HBB004.webp
 
That thing sounds sick. Bunch of wallies for saying it'll get better. The equivalent of the old "Are you being served.... will ride up with wear".

At least once they get it right, you know one shop not to visit again.

cheers,
george.
 
george_tlc said:
That thing sounds sick. Bunch of wallies for saying it'll get better. The equivalent of the old "Are you being served.... will ride up with wear".

At least once they get it right, you know one shop not to visit again.

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...
I was already hoping to never have to visit them again after they sprayed brake fluid on the paint and the young bloke sprayed some Nifty on a dirty rag and wiped it. I had to get a bottle out and neutralise it with water, but it already dulled the paint where it ran. Thankfully I was able to polish the streaks out. Absolute muppets and tout their business as brake specialists. I'll definitely be requesting they don't put an apprentice on the job, and will make sure I take lots of pictures and videos of my rig before I drop it off incase anything is damaged during the booster swap.

Thankfully after this saga, I actually found a really decent mechanic that I've used for some other work. I try and do as much as I can myself, but sometimes restrictred in terms of my ability and also a suitable place to work on the truck (apartment living sucks in that regard).
 
When you go back ask them where the booster was actually manufactured (COO=Country of Origin), if the shop doesn't know ask Hulk 4x4.

If you look at that one photo from the rear (taken off the website), hard to say for sure but the metal appears scratched and dented/gouged (right upper).
 
petegangies said:
I was already hoping to never have to visit them again after they sprayed brake fluid on the paint and the young bloke sprayed some Nifty on a dirty rag and wiped it. I had to get a bottle out and neutralise it with water, but it already dulled the paint where it ran. Thankfully I was able to polish the streaks out. Absolute muppets and tout their business as brake specialists. I'll definitely be requesting they don't put an apprentice on the job, and will make sure I take lots of pictures and videos of my rig before I drop it off incase anything is damaged during the booster swap.

Thankfully after this saga, I actually found a really decent mechanic that I've used for some other work. I try and do as much as I can myself, but sometimes restrictred in terms of my ability and also a suitable place to work on the truck (apartment living sucks in that regard).
Click to expand...
FWIW, ethyl alcohol (methylated spirits) will satisfactorily remove brake fluid.
 
Malleus said:
You're very lucky you have one of the 80s you can pull a booster from without disassembling the top of the engine. I have three and every one of them has the engine too close to the brake booster. By several inches. PITA
Click to expand...
Is this specific to the year? I replaced the booster on my 94 last year and it was almost too easy. Currently have the engine out of my 97 and wondering if I should replace it 'while I'm in there' 🫠
 
12bit said:
Is this specific to the year? I replaced the booster on my 94 last year and it was almost too easy. Currently have the engine out of my 97 and wondering if I should replace it 'while I'm in there' 🫠
Click to expand...
Nope. It's specific to the way the engine is situated on the frame. All three of mine, one 1994 and two 1995, are built so that there is a 4 inch overlap, side to side, between the booster and the intake manifold. I pulled one off of a 1994 that had an inch of clearance side to side. I know of someone who told me the last one he removed had a bit of overlap, but he was able to wiggle it off without removing the intakes (both of them, if there's any overlap).

If yours will come straight off, thank the assembly line gods.
 
Malleus said:
FWIW, ethyl alcohol (methylated spirits) will satisfactorily remove brake fluid.
Click to expand...
my grandma was obsessed with metho.. she kept a bottle next to her lounge chair and rubbed it liberally for all sorts of ailments haha.. even when we came inside itchy from playing on the grass... in her Greek accent she would call it "spirtolite".. good memories!
 
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