No power 3FE (1 Viewer)

[Bryan062087]

Here's recent things I've done none of which have helped the problem. I need some ideas of where to look next. Valve adjustment, Replaced TPS and AFM due to error codes in CPU, Air Filter replaced, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, fuel filter, checked timing. New exhaust system and new cats. I tested compression on the engine and got 150, 148, 150, 150, 139, 151.


I have a slight stumble at 2k rpms in 3rd gear (Have H55f). Lack of power most noticeable when trying to accelerate from stand still rather than on the freeway. Engine revs fine but no power...The hotter it is outside the worse the acceleration seems, but that could be due to the fan clutch being on and a/c running which accentuates the underlying problem...

I briefly had a 2.5" exhaust from manifold back and with that set up, I gained more power above 2.5k rpms. But low rpm power still was marginal. After 2.5k, it felt like a turbo kicked in and I could accelerate better. However, I returned to stock exhaust layout. No power throughout rpm band now, worse at low RPMs i believe.

Can someone who is knowledgeable recommend where I should be looking at next to identify and correct the problem?

 

[2mbb]

Just curious, what work did bobby perform on your truck? since you seem to be blaming him for your problems.

 

[Bryan062087]

Lets stay on topic thanks. If you want to know, for some reason, you can ask me in PM . If I knew what he did which resulted in my truck running very poorly, then I would not be asking here for help. And would not have been working on it past few years attempting to solve the problem.

 

[Captain Caveman]

Lets stay on topic thanks.

Seems like a very relevant question to me. If you're certain that correlation is causation (which isn't always true), then perhaps offering some more details about what was worked on might better aid those that are willing to offer advice.

 

[Bryan062087]

Of course someone says that.

He half-did a manual conversion which I had to redo myself. Falsely claimed the timing on my engine had been set at 36 degrees advanced indefinitely. Claimed he lowered it to the correct value. Went to pick up my truck, it barely ran plugs were fouled, no power. He had my truck in his lot for maybe two months, I do not know what he did which resulted in it running poorly. If I knew, that would be a big help. After realizing that it could barely run after getting there to drive it back to Nashville, I left it overnight and came back the next day and it ran better. Do not know what he did that resulted in the difference. AFM and TPS which he tinkered with were bad after I picked up my truck and showing codes. But had no codes before bringing it in. He said he did some things and contradicted himself. Honestly, I do not know what happened or what he did. That is why I'm asking here for some pointers on what to look at. Pretty much everything he touched I ended up having to redo myself. The main job he 'completed' was the manual conversion.

 

[tclark]

Being a smartass isn't likely to get you a lot of help

 

[Kungpaodog]

Sounds like you have two of the three basics pretty well covered: air and spark. The third is fuel. How are your injectors & fuel pump?

 

[Jerry D.]

I don’t own a 3FE. But,
“He half-did a manual conversion”, “Lack of power most noticeable when trying to accelerate from stand still rather than on the freeway. Engine revs fine but no power”

I would start with the clutch/pressure plate, bad adjustment, not making contact. Bad from standing start=poor clutch contact, OK on freeway=speed of drivetrain and windage helping.

How are you measuring the ‘no power’? Can you set and rev the engine with no current problems? Does the engine seem to spin up faster that the truck picks up speed?

Removal of one cylinder, need six. One missing per first post of comprssion.

 

[Michael Hanson]

I second fuel, check filter in gas tank, yes youll have to pull the tank so replace pump while your in there. Send injectors off to be cleaned. Thats where I would start.Clutch could also need adj. Why didnt Bobby fix it? Mike

 

[billmc]

Lack of power most noticeable when trying to accelerate from stand still rather than on the freeway. Engine revs fine but no power.

This is rather confusing, as others have pointed out. I assume you mean it revs fine with the clutch pedal depressed, not while accelerating from a standstill. I would have someone reliable recheck the whole timing business properly. Maybe he timed it without jumping the diag block. Sounds like you're way retarded. If not, you need to fix/replace your clutch.

Bill

 

[tclark]

Sounds like you're way retarded.

Bill

No need for name calling

 

[billmc]

No need for name calling

lol when I clicked submit I realized that was a bit ambiguous

 

[Bryan062087]

I mean aside from the stumble in 3rd at 2k rpms, It will rev fine in gear like I can go up to 3.5k rpms etc and not have any stumbling or choking issues. But still don't get any power..

If I seem a little agitated its bc I'm a little frustrated (pissed off) and tired of dealing with this problem+ terrible mechanics for so long.

I believe the clutch is adjusted correctly. What adjustments are there to make? There's none on the slave cylinder. And the pedal motion and throwout bearing and fork work properly to disengage and engage the clutch. I'm not freely revving the engine like the clutch is slipping. The engine just has no pull/torque.

I set the timing myself and have tried different degrees advanced etc to see if that makes any difference in power. Also tried setting it high to see if what Bobby said made any sense at all about how it ran fine at 36 degrees. It doesn't make any sense. I don't think he had any idea what he was doing.

Cylinder #1 was 150psi.

 

[klinetime574]

You mentioned you had a 2.5" exhaust. Why did you switch back to stock?

I'd agree with these guys to check the fuel system.

 

[billmc]

Did you jump the diag block when you set the timing?

 

[Ontharox]

I have just recently done a drive train swap which required some of the same measures as a manual conversion, It is not hard to kink the fuel lines where they come off the frame when you are down around the bell housing or relocating a tranny cross member, which would cause similar problems ( running fine in neutral but bogging down when put under load and more fuel is needed. Might save you from pulling the tank. One other question when you did the valves, did you do it with the engine hot?

 

[Bryan062087]

Did you jump the diag block when you set the timing?

Yes I did.

 

[Bryan062087]

I have just recently done a drive train swap which required some of the same measures as a manual conversion, It is not hard to kink the fuel lines where they come off the frame when you are down around the bell housing or relocating a tranny cross member, which would cause similar problems ( running fine in neutral but bogging down when put under load and more fuel is needed. Might save you from pulling the tank. One other question when you did the valves, did you do it with the engine hot?

I'll look at the fuel lines. I adjusted when hot yes. Well, as fast as I could after the engine was turned off.

 

[Bryan062087]

You mentioned you had a 2.5" exhaust. Why did you switch back to stock?

I'd agree with these guys to check the fuel system.

Wasn't done correctly..and o2 sensor ports were in the wrong location.

 

[tclark]

Are you sure the distributor isn't off a tooth?