Next Project: Clutch

[planemech]

I am trying to pull my tranny right now to redo my clutch rear main and oil pan gasket.
I am at the point where every thing is removed. I am trying to pull the tranny straight back is there any thing I might be missing. I have followed the following instructions from another post but my POS doesn't want to budge:

Pull your shifter boots. 10mm socket wrench. The trans shifter is a push down and turn to the left deal. Channel lock pliers. Pull the transfer shifter knob, but you'll get it from underneath.

Raise the truck.

Drop your driveshafts. You'll need two 14mm (or 9/16) box end wrenches.

Pull the wire connectors

Pull the transfer case shifter. side cutters to pull the cotter pins. 14mm (I think) to pull the shaft nut

Pull the slave cylinder. 12mm(?) Don't let it dangle as the push rod can fall out and get lost.

Pull the four trans to bell housing bolts. 17 or 19 mm.

Support the trans.

Pull the cross member.

Back the input shaft out of the bellhousing.

Drop the trans.

Pull the bell housing and stuff if you want.
Any thoughts.

 

[iaintscared1969]

Yeah the pry bar between the tranny and bellhousing. There is a little gap at the lower portion of the tranny for this.

 

[planemech]

Progress

OK Folks. I have made some progress over the past few days.
After finishing the install on the lift I took the truck out far a 20 minute drive to heat up the oil and put it right back in the garage.
I was able successfuly remove the tranny and tcase. I just had to lift up my skirt get under the truck and put some ass behind a pry bar and poof like magic it broke free.
Next was the rear main removal/install. Can I say piece of cake here? It was the job that I was most worried about and it was the easiest job so far.

Note: 1. It is neccessary to remove the seats and carpet in order to access the shifter boot bolts.
2.There are 2 bolts on the top of the bellhousing that need to come off in addition to the four bolts on the inside.

Step 1: Was to access it.
Step 2: Put big screwdriver in the lip on the outside then jiggled it and it popped right out.

Next I removed the oil pan not to bad either just removed the bolts and then tried to pry it off gently wouln't budge so I grabbed my heat torch and about a minute on each side of the pan was all it took to come right off.
I tried to pop out the pilot bearing but it has other ideas.
Any suggestions?
I am going to take all of my parts to work tonight to clean them so that on my next day off I can toss this thing back together.
Well Here are some pics.

 

[planemech]

I also forgot to mention that I had the fly wheel turned.
It was only $35.00 @ Clutch service Wholesale Colorado Springs 719-598-9188.
Excellent job and only took 20 min with them pulling the pins.
Here is the rear main installed.

 

[planemech]

Here are a few more pics. Because I know it helps me when I am trying to do something and I have a picture to refer to.

 

[jfnall]

i am getting ready to replace my pan gasket. is it necessary to do anything with the clutch to get that off? just the inspection cover i assume. is it as easy as it looks? pan gasket only.

 

[planemech]

jfnall,
I believe that all you have to remove is the tranny inspection cover then just remove the bolts from the oil pan. As I mentioned before I used a propane torch to slightly heat up the pan to pop it off along with a flat scaper blade. I also used an air ratchet to take out the bolts. It shouldn't take you more than 30 mins to set up and remove.
Good luck.
Andy

 

[79fj40moneypit]

I found that when you put the flywheel back on do not use a impact wrench , It causes the side of the crank where the bolts go in to bulge out causing the rear main to leak, It is also a good idea to clean out the flywheel bolt holes with a tap. I had to speedy sleeve mine after I tightened it with my Mac impact and it leaked.

 

[zuluzeugma]

you need this tool or the harbor frieght version depending on how much you are going to use it.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...hanics+Tools&sName=Automotive+Specialty+Tools

works awesome...

someone makes a slide hammer version but its more expensive. If you are cheap, you can make it pretty easily too.

hope this helps.

 

[planemech]

Well I have finished up the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and clutch.
After I started it up I had a whine coming from the throw out bearing and after dring it a little while it went away.
Lessons learned are as follows:
1. Rear main was way easier than I was expecting it to be. Just use a lot of lube!
2. Tranny jacks can be rented from your local rental store! I didn't realize this until after the tranny n tcase were out. But I did have it for the install. If you can, rent one with an adjustment for side to side tilt not just the front to back tilt.
3. Pilot bearing removal is easy if you have the right puller. Advanced auto has one for rent for around $30 and you can return for a full refund when done. Only thing was I had to file down the arms to make a deep enough lip to catch the bearing.
4. Front seats and carpet has to come out to pull tranny.
5. Use caution when installing oil pan bolts easier than you would think to cross thread the bolts. I had to tap out one of the holes and get a new bolt to finish it up.
Hints:
It is not necessary to rtv the engine side of the gasket.
the truck will have to be jcaked up in order to move the tranny out on a tranny jack.

Well that's all I can think of for right now.
Thanks to all for the advice.

 

[Wearenotbemused]

Well I have finished up the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and clutch.
After I started it up I had a whine coming from the throw out bearing and after dring it a little while it went away.
Lessons learned are as follows:
1. Rear main was way easier than I was expecting it to be. Just use a lot of lube!
2. Tranny jacks can be rented from your local rental store! I didn't realize this until after the tranny n tcase were out. But I did have it for the install. If you can, rent one with an adjustment for side to side tilt not just the front to back tilt.
3. Pilot bearing removal is easy if you have the right puller. Advanced auto has one for rent for around $30 and you can return for a full refund when done. Only thing was I had to file down the arms to make a deep enough lip to catch the bearing.
4. Front seats and carpet has to come out to pull tranny.
5. Use caution when installing oil pan bolts easier than you would think to cross thread the bolts. I had to tap out one of the holes and get a new bolt to finish it up.
Hints:
It is not necessary to rtv the engine side of the gasket.
the truck will have to be jcaked up in order to move the tranny out on a tranny jack.

Well that's all I can think of for right now.
Thanks to all for the advice.

Can you explain how you got to the four bolts on the inside of the bellhousing?