Newbie searching for a 100, 98-99

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I am currently looking at 2000 in Reno, NV. High miles so I hope it checks out. I am going to have it taken to Toyota and have it hooked up to the OBD along with the standard check over items. It already had the 90K service, new starter, and new throttle body (thought they just cleaned these things).
 
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BMWSTOY said:
I am currently looking at 2000 in Reno, NV. High miles so I hope it checks out. I am going to have it taken to Toyota and have it hooked up to the OBD along with the standard check over items. It already had the 90K service, new starter, and new throttle body (thought they just cleaned these things).
Click to expand...


FYI: There have been a couple LC's...one good looking (from the street anyway) '98 LC for asking price of $13,995. And across the street at another lot they had either an '00 or an '01. If you are interested PM me and I can check further. FYI: My sis and her family live in Parker.
 
Abe Nitro said:
Wow, I did not realize that the 00 drive train provided a higher level of traction in extreme conditions.. If I new that I probably would have spent less than 3 months trying to find the 99 with locker I bought. Does anyone know the upside of the 99 w/locker over the 00. Come on give me something!
Click to expand...


IMO...less electronics on the '98/'99...and less $$$.
 
Abe Nitro said:
Does anyone know the upside of the 99 w/locker over the 00. Come on give me something!
Click to expand...

Don't fret. Your truck is awesome and capable.

There are plenty of situations where locking my rear offers an easier climb vs just letting TRAC work. At the same time though, most obstacles are handled easier and safer with TRAC. I've learned this from experience. I've seen TRAC rigs slip right up and rear-locked rigs not move...depending on where the traction's at.

I'd guesstimate that TRAC works best 75% of the time and rear-lock 25% from my experience.
 
see, thats more helpful to the guy who cant decide, humm should i get rear lockers or trac.

EDIT: Your not getting one million dollars btw...not unless you buy my house for 2.3 million, and then ill give you a million back.
 
After I purchase one, we should change the thread title to: 98-99 vs. 2K+???

Is everyones body cladding delaminating in the middle? I have to search to see some options here, go with a new Black in between the gray molding. Is this the gloss area in the middle where its falling off? Hard for me to remember everything when looking, but it seems anything with 90K+ is delaminating.

Love the dialogue this is creating - keep it up,
 
Proud new TLC owner

Yahoo! The Avatar photo and the one in #21 is officially my new ride.
Guess the aditional items on the 2000 out weighed the 99 with diff lock. Actually, I spent less than I thought I would on the 2000 - likely more than the 99 but... I opted for one with more miles and one that will require my wrenching very soon:
1st: Timing Belt, Serp. Belt, W-pump, pulleys, and tensioner.
2nd: All new synthethic fluids.
3rd: Save up some money for the OME kit and some tires.

Thanks again for everyone on this post for the help. :beer: :cheers:
 
I am purchasing the LC from Reno today. I have someone driving out this way in 2 weeks so I decided to save my one-way plane fare and wait.
Not that I will make it that long and just go out there, but that is the plan. I need the money for a list of parts.
Anyone have an extra driver side headlight body?
I plan on doing a write up on the timing belt change like I did on my 4Runner on Yotatech.com. This is after I download the FSM.
From the threads I read, I will likely include a write up on the radiator fluid change theory IMHO, and the oil change.
 
Tire Size on my newly acquired 100

I am just realizing that if I go with the 2" OME lift and want to run at least 285 or 295's I can not get my favorite tire - the Michelin LTX-A/T's because they don't make them. Or just be happy with the 265 or 31.9" - but will this look funny with the 2 " lift - anyone with pictures of this set up?

I have not had much success with BFG's in the past, poor wear patters, road noise, etc. Good for off road, but I am a realist and realize that 90% or more will be on the pavement. But the the majority of 100 owners with the BFG's I just might give them another chance since they have the sizes - past history likely due to other issues and not the tire.

If I drop down to the M/S I could go to the 285 75 X 16 which are 32.8" tires, as big as I would want to go and should be able to wheel with those just not as good as the A/T in my experience. I do like the photos of 285's with the lift.
 
well, i could take a picture of my truck with the LTX-M/S 275/70-16's with the AHC in the High position. Thats basicly a 2" lift. The tires have a OD of like 31.3 inchs.

If nobody has any picture of what you need then i could always do that for you tommorrow when the sun comes out.

Anyone know how much better the Michelin LTX A/T's are in the snow over M/S?
 
Tires

I am learning so much. I think since I had the BFG, there have been changes and it might just be my next tire. Anyway, this is the reason Michelin does not make the LTX-A/T - response from Michelin:


Thank you for your email. We appreciate your interest in Michelin tires.

Unfortunately, we do not offer the Michelin LTX A/T in a 285/75R16. We do
still offer this tire in a 31x10.50R15.

We offer the Michelin LTX M/S in an LT285/75R16.

Michelin also makes BFGoodrich tires. BFGoodrich offers an LT285/75R16 in
the BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO if you are interested. This is an
excellent all-terrain tire.

If your questions have not been answered to your satisfaction, please call
us at 1-800-847-3435 (toll-free) between 8:30AM and 6:00PM Eastern Time
Monday through Friday.


Sincerely,

Michael

Michelin North America
Consumer Relations
 
A lot of folks like the Revo's (Bridgestone) too. I have the Nitto Terra Grapplers in the 285 size and have been very happy with them - but I have 0 snow experience with them.
 
I have never been a fan of Bridgestones - one bad experience. Its either the Michelin LTX-M/S at 285 or a 295 BFG. I need to read more - I have read it once, but the 295 is larger than the 305 in diameter so I am not sure what I want - I think its cool that I get to run a 33" either in the 285 at 32.8 or the 295 at 33+. I wish I knew which one would give me the best MPG? Anyone know the optimal cruising speed for MPG - but even that depends on tire size...

I can not seem to find out what size rim I have - I have not picked it up yet, Is the 16" rim a 7 or 8JJ???
 
BMWSTOY said:
I have never been a fan of Bridgestones - one bad experience. Its either the Michelin LTX-M/S at 285 or a 295 BFG. I need to read more - I have read it once, but the 295 is larger than the 305 in diameter so I am not sure what I want - I think its cool that I get to run a 33" either in the 285 at 32.8 or the 295 at 33+. I wish I knew which one would give me the best MPG? Anyone know the optimal cruising speed for MPG - but even that depends on tire size...

I can not seem to find out what size rim I have - I have not picked it up yet, Is the 16" rim a 7 or 8JJ???
Click to expand...


Based upon my experience your MPG will go down when you go to a larger diameter tire such as the 285 or 295 than stock...plus the drivetrain will not be as efficient...your auto tranny shift points will be off slightly so passing and ramp up to highway speed will be a little sluggish.
 
Also...don't rule out TOYO's...they, from many others on 'MUD, state how round and balanced the TOYO's are...
 
My brother was begging me to get Toyo's after he put 40K on a set and they still look new and did not been balancing during rotations.

I had to go with Discount Tire because I love the access to the free balance, flat repair, rotations, warranty, etc.

285 BFG AT KO's 122R - Snowflake on the Mtn rated.
 
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