At about 2000rpm it gets to about the dash nearer the H . Smidge above. Haven’t had test gauge. Leaks are happening in a lot of places looks like, low down as in pic
New Turbo on 2H causes several oil leaks?
- Thread starter Freewheel
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Its possible that your oil pressure relief valve has stuck.. here's a small guide on how to change it that my daughter wrote..
She did an awesome job!
To add to leak concerns. I suspect my rear main is leaking a little on my 36 year old 2h engine. And perhaps the sump at the rear. But as far as clutch slipping it would have to be a copious amount to reach between flywheel and clutch disk. Most of the leak would happen on the engine side of the flywheel.
I thought a clutch slip was from leaking oil, but found a pin hole leak in the slave. Replaced that, and better.
Also I have noticed that the h55f has changed a little from 180ks to 320ks in which the gear box does like to be warmed up a bit, after driving around changing gears the oil warms and all is happier. Winter here in melbourne and gear box is definitely better after driving around a few blocks.
I worried for a bit, but my actual oil loss is bugger all after monitoring it, negligible. So I shall wait until the clutch gets noticeably bad consistently before pulling it all and replacing the clutch, rear main, sump seals.
I didn't add a turbo though, I replaced the relief valve on the timing case with the terrain tamer extended one. Initially I shortened the spring 1 1/2 rings but since replaced with the full original length one.
I have an autometer electric gauge in which it is not accurate compared to the mechanical gauge I have in the bay. But still always good to look for some sort of consistent numbers and be predictable. As the oem gauge is definitely not accurate.
Also, over time from 180ks to 320ks on the clock, the numbers do look lower after long drives at idle. The oem gauge may go down uncomfortably low, but still fine. If your edic is healthy and oil pressure did drop down too much, the edic would switch your engine off by cutting the fuel.
How much oil do you actually lose over what sort of distances? Oil leaks are deceptive. How does she run?
I thought a clutch slip was from leaking oil, but found a pin hole leak in the slave. Replaced that, and better.
Also I have noticed that the h55f has changed a little from 180ks to 320ks in which the gear box does like to be warmed up a bit, after driving around changing gears the oil warms and all is happier. Winter here in melbourne and gear box is definitely better after driving around a few blocks.
I worried for a bit, but my actual oil loss is bugger all after monitoring it, negligible. So I shall wait until the clutch gets noticeably bad consistently before pulling it all and replacing the clutch, rear main, sump seals.
I didn't add a turbo though, I replaced the relief valve on the timing case with the terrain tamer extended one. Initially I shortened the spring 1 1/2 rings but since replaced with the full original length one.
I have an autometer electric gauge in which it is not accurate compared to the mechanical gauge I have in the bay. But still always good to look for some sort of consistent numbers and be predictable. As the oem gauge is definitely not accurate.
Also, over time from 180ks to 320ks on the clock, the numbers do look lower after long drives at idle. The oem gauge may go down uncomfortably low, but still fine. If your edic is healthy and oil pressure did drop down too much, the edic would switch your engine off by cutting the fuel.
How much oil do you actually lose over what sort of distances? Oil leaks are deceptive. How does she run?
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But yeah, never had reached H on the gauge, it is possible to pop your oil filter with too much pressure which won't be fun. Probably the oem short valve has worn into the aluminium housing and is getting stuck. It is about the kms it happens.
