New to... well.. it all

[gregnash]

I am starting this thread as my basis of research and preparation, so I apologize for the time gaps this will have but I will attempt to update as I get body and paint work done.

Backstory:
I picked up "BeBe" this last October and she has been a great truck. As I get time I am fixing the mechanical issues but it seems like the list is not quite as long as I anticipated and things are going well.

As items get ticked off the list of, what I consider, the "critical" I am not looking to the rust and paint of the truck. She doesn't look to bad until you get up close and you see all the faded paint and rust. (I will post pics later)

It looks like the previous owner attempted to spray a grey/silver coat over the standard 8B4, for what reason I don't know. On top of that he, even admitted that, tried to wax it one day only to forget he put the wax on so the hood is completely destroyed and two separate colors with some big swirl spots.

Anyways, I figured it was time for me to learn some body work and welding.

First things first, with regards to welding, I only anticipate needing the welder for body work and MAYBE trying to build myself a roof rack, no crazy stuff like doing shackle reversal or huge bumpers with swing-outs. So what would be a good welder to start with? Could I go and pick something up fairly cheap at Harbor Freight that would suit my needs?

Secondly, with regards to painting, this truck isnt going to be a show winner, nor is she a garage queen. I was thinking of doing the $50 roll-on paint job but I am starting to wonder about that. I live in Northern NV where it is windy/breezy all the damn time and if it is not then it is below 40* out. I have a 1 car garage that the wife's car spends it's life in. So this paint job will most likely have to be done in parts and outside. The body is in pretty sound condition, no dents that I can speak of and really the rust is relegated to a few spots that ARE NOT rusted through. This will more than likely be done during the summer months when it is warm enough for me to ride my bike to work every day so if the cruiser is missing parts for a day or two then I can justify.

So be concise:
- welder for patch work. What type/size one should I get?
- Paint. Should I try the $50 paint job and is it worth it? Is there an alternative to this or should I just bite the bullet and invest in a compressor, spray gun, and mobile paint booth?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Greg,

Depends on budget for welder. First does it have to be a 110V or could you go to a 220V? I recommend a 220V then you can do everything... I assume you want a MIG machine?

Lots of variables play into the buying decision.. If all you ever want to do is weld 3/16" and under, I'd go with a 110V and call it good. But, if you want to weld on 1/4" and above I'd look at a 220V machine. Hobart 140, cheapest, but good. Lincoln 140, better, Miller 140 A.S. best IMO. I'm a Miller freak when it comes to shop welders. Lincoln for outside work.

For body patch work use .023" wire. You don't need much voltage to make these welds. Jump around and wait for the spot welds to cool before the next weld. Sheet metal warps and pulls quickly. I like to use solid wire with a shielding gas for body work, just my preference, its cleaner.

I did a roll on paint job before. It's pretty easy, just thin it out pretty good and take your time.

J

 

[gregnash]

Figured you would reply J.. Thanks for the info...
220V I believe is available in my garage (electric dryer) but not sure. Like I said I do not see myself doing anything other than building a roof rack but even then I am not sure what the dimensions of the tube would be so probably would be safer with 110v which I have all over the garage. Truthfully I don't see a need of doing anything thicker than the 3/16" but that always begs the question of "WHAT IF".

As with anything, my budget is pretty cheap so I might see what I can find at the local pawn shops. One of my wife's cousin's is becoming a journeyman pipeline welder so don't know if he could get me any deals or not.


With regards to the paint, I would love it if I could keep a similar color to the stock 8B4 but I dont think that is going to happen. I am wondering if the Rust-o-leum or Kelly Moore enamel paints are tintable so that I can get it somewhat close?

 

[Tin basher]

Personally if you have 220 in garage get a 220 welder
Have found with a 110 machine works good for sheet metal body work
But suffers from voltage drop depending on how far plug is from main power
And other draws on same circuit
And don't use flux core wire for patches in bodywork
Did once for a few patches every one on that car that was flux core
Blistered the gas and solid wire didn't

 

[gregnash]

Pics as promised..

Tailgate
Top

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
Bottom

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Drivers side

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Passenger side

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Looks like you definitely need a welder to keep that rust at bay. Like the others said, it all depends on what you are looking to do. Keep in mind though that once you start welding your mind starts to open up to the fact that you can redisgn your workshop with new benches/tables/stands etc. etc. A 220V welder will get your there quicker and with better results.

I personally own a 110V unit strictly for sheetmetal. It's a Lincoln SP100 which is the unit I learned to do bodywork on. Still have it today. Great for sheetmetal and light fabrication. I have a Millermatic 200 for the thicker stuff. The reason I like having both is that you don't have to change the spool,drive wheels and sometimes liners to compensate for the material you are welding.

One piece of advice I usually give to someone looking for a first welder is whatever brand you pick try and get a unit that has infinite settings on the heat side. This lets you fine tune it to get those sweet spots. Tapped settings do not allow you those in between areas an infinite style knob will. I think most of the Hobart machines are tap settings. Still excellent machines, but something to think about.

Oh yeah, stick with the big three (Hobart, Miller and Lincoln). ESAB units are good, but some parts can be harder to get than with the other three brands especially when they get older.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for the info TMTZ, I will see if I cant find a 220v then and just get an extension cord for it or whatever (if that is possible).

I plan to just replace the drivers door as it is rusted pretty badly and I can see where there was a lot of bondo work done at one point. I am more concerned about the wheel wells but looking from inside the well it doesnt look like it has eaten through. If I get time this weekend I will pull the back carpet up and look at it from the inside.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Thanks for the info TMTZ, I will see if I cant find a 220v then and just get an extension cord for it or whatever (if that is possible).

I plan to just replace the drivers door as it is rusted pretty badly and I can see where there was a lot of bondo work done at one point. I am more concerned about the wheel wells but looking from inside the well it doesnt look like it has eaten through. If I get time this weekend I will pull the back carpet up and look at it from the inside.

Good luck!! You can definitely find a good used one on CL. I see them for sale all the time around me.

 

[gregnash]

I called a local toyota dismantler and got a quote for a new doorskin from an FJ62 that looked to be of similar color, holy $325! Is that a normal price? Unfortunately, we do not have any in our local Pick-n-Pull yards for me to grab one from, so I would either have to find one on CL, here, or from a local club member.

I am keeping my eye on the weather to see if we can get a warm stint because if we do I may try to tackle the rear gate sooner than later.

So for the removal of the bubbling and rust as it is right now, what is the best way to go about that. I was just thinking of taking a heavy grit sand paper and block to the area to strip it of initially then to move forward with lighter and lighter grit. Hopefully nothing will have eaten through the metal completely.

So from that point, I have a couple automotive paint shops in town as well as the normal hardware stores along with a Kelley Moore. I was planning to hit up Kelley Moore and talk to them about their industrial enamel line to use for the roll on paint job. I need to look at paint chips too.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

So for the removal of the bubbling and rust as it is right now, what is the best way to go about that. I was just thinking of taking a heavy grit sand paper and block to the area to strip it of initially then to move forward with lighter and lighter grit. Hopefully nothing will have eaten through the metal completely.

So from that point, I have a couple automotive paint shops in town as well as the normal hardware stores along with a Kelley Moore. I was planning to hit up Kelley Moore and talk to them about their industrial enamel line to use for the roll on paint job. I need to look at paint chips too.

What is your current tool situation? Do you have a decent air compressor with pneumatic grinders/sanders etc.? This will make the job easier, butif not you would at the very least want an electric grinder to see what's underneath the emblem. Using a block and a piece of heavy grit paper would be grueling to say the least.

I'm gonna say it's a 99.9% certainty that you will have rot behind the emblem. If you use an electric grinder I'd recommend a flap disc (Harbor Freight sells inexpensive ones that will work fine for the area you need cleaned up). I'd get a 60 or 80 grit wheel and have at it. You'll be able to see the real story once it's down to bare metal.

Once you get to that point you'll more than likely have to have some mig welding done to patch up the rot. It's a nice flat spot, so it's not going to require a ton of bending/dollying to get it to look decent. If you don't have access to a welder I'm sure a local mud member would be willing to help out.

Get it to clean metal and post up a couple of pics. You are also going to want to buy some epoxy primer to apply once you get it to bare metal. You can also roll it on.

 

[gregnash]

So pulled the rear carpet this weekend and there was ZERO rust in there, so happy for that especially around the wheel wells.

I did take the small cover off the tailgate which allowed me to see the inside of where the 4WD symbol is and this is what is in there.

Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

The paint is just starting to bubble in there with some rust showing but pushing on the metal I do not feel any popping or anything. Have a feeling I am still going to need to replace the metal here though but wondering if I can use a rust converter and save it?

 

[gregnash]

So finally went by HarborFreight and grabbed a cheap 4 1/2" grinder with a deadman switch (from recommendations from other threads). Will grab some flapper disks when I get the chance and hopefully hit this in the next month or so. We have suddenly been hit with random rain storms and super moist weather so I am going to hold off on the sanding/grinding for now. But at least I have something to play with!!

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

So finally went by HarborFreight and grabbed a cheap 4 1/2" grinder with a deadman switch (from recommendations from other threads). Will grab some flapper disks when I get the chance and hopefully hit this in the next month or so. We have suddenly been hit with random rain storms and super moist weather so I am going to hold off on the sanding/grinding for now. But at least I have something to play with!!

@*^! G, I wish I were still in WY.. I have a pile of grinders, discs, etc... i could have helped you out with.

J

 

[gregnash]

No worries dude, appreciate the offer. I just look at it as a way to get my tool collection completed.

 

[gregnash]

Pulled the drivers side panel this weekend to start my rear panel rebuild and this is what I was greeted with. The white you see is not sunlight coming through but actually some chalky white substance (dont think its salt as we dont salt the roads here). I pushed on it a little and the metal didnt budge or anything so seems pretty strong so I am hoping this is salvagable with my intent to go with a Monstaliner paint job and if need be I will get this crap out and then use their Chassis Saver in the wheel wells.


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr

 

[Spook50]

So finally went by HarborFreight and grabbed a cheap 4 1/2" grinder with a deadman switch (from recommendations from other threads). Will grab some flapper disks when I get the chance and hopefully hit this in the next month or so. We have suddenly been hit with random rain storms and super moist weather so I am going to hold off on the sanding/grinding for now. But at least I have something to play with!!

Believe it or not, HF's 4.5" angle grinder is a good deal, especially if you pay for the lifetime warranty ($10 IIRC). I live practically in walking distance of a HF, so if mine ever has trouble it's a breeze to get a replacement under warranty. At least until they stop carrying it in stock

As far as your latest pic, good luck getting down into that area with any kind of wire wheel. Maybe get a sandblast hopper from Craftsman or Eastwood that you can hook up to your compressor and try to get your hands on some dry ice blasting media so it doesn't leave a sandy mess in there. Or the crevice tool for your shop vac if you end up using any normal blasting media.

 

[gregnash]

yeah that little HF grinder seems to work pretty well with the little bit that I have played with it. I need to grab some flap discs and cut-off wheels so I can play some more. Got a trick little mounting system dreamed up for the interior for my road and mtn bike so we will see.