New to the Land Cruiser family...1999

[TimTX]

I took the dive and picked up a 1999 Land Cruiser with 250K miles. Its a 1-owner and with the exception of the later model wheels, I'm pretty sure it is original. It came with the original window sticker and the options were the 3rd Row (AC, etc.), leather, running boards...and I think something else, not sure.

It comes with a folder full of maintenance, timing belt, fluids, shocks, tires, alternator, etc. all done within the last 20K miles. I haven't gone through everything, but the guy has oil change receipts, etc. I'm thinking maybe he upgraded the brakes/rotors which is why he went with the 18" wheels.

The antenna motor seems to be broken as it only went up about 6". Other than that, everything is stock, original and in good shape. I'm sure I'll find other little things, but the 70 miles back home was fun.

First impressions is the thing is a tank. It is heavy, but drives smooth. So far so good...paid $7K for it.

 

[cmck]

Welcome! I'm a fellow 1999 LC owner with 220k on it..... it looks like you might have the factory elocker the control is to the lower left of the steering column.

Poke about and search the forum, there is a ton of great content on "mud" and everybody is helpful.

 

[Dwight S]

Looks good. You probably have... but have you checked the antenna button below the radio, left of the clock? A lot of new owners don't realize that there is a button.

 

[nissanh]

You got the rear diff lock option and ATRC.

Go with factory (OEM) air filter as the oil in the K&N can foul the MAF sensor.

 

[flintknapper]

You got the rear diff lock option and ATRC.

Go with factory (OEM) air filter as the oil in the K&N can foul the MAF sensor.

^^^^^ He has the rear locking diff option, but A-TRAC was not available until the year model 2000 IIRC.

Nice Cruiser! Looks to be rust free.

 

[TimTX]

Thanks for the heads up on the antenna button...drove it at night to check the lights, etc. and sure enough...hit the button and the antenna went up. Also, I hit these switches near the locker? They are to power open the rear windows...really? WOW, I'm sure I'll find a bunch of other neat things with this truck.

Yes, I do have the locker switch/button to the lower left of the steering wheel. From reading, that seems to be appealing to off-roaders. I'll probably take it to the beach, but no plans on any mods.

Take out the K&N? Interesting, I haven't checked the box but you are saying if it is the K&N I should go to a FRAM, STP or some other traditional filter? Appreciate the heads up. I've heard the K&N's can have some "side affects".

I can't find any rust on it.

Enjoying it so far...

 

[Riviera]

Welcome aboard! Nice looking rig. I'm jealous, you have the rear locker!

 

[aljollano]

Welcome to the addiction!!

A.J

 

[TimTX]

Yes...definitely an addiction.

 

[nissanh]

Just curious to ask.... where are you in TX?

Get the OEM toyota air filter. Also, anything you buy try to stay with OEM as this will keep the cruiser as a reliable truck for years. Check out camelbacktoyotaparts for good deals. If you didn't replace the Heater T-joints near the firewall near the transmission dipstick, replace those as early as possible. Rest is fun!

 

[TimTX]

Just curious to ask.... where are you in TX?

Get the OEM toyota air filter. Also, anything you buy try to stay with OEM as this will keep the cruiser as a reliable truck for years. Check out camelbacktoyotaparts for good deals. If you didn't replace the Heater T-joints near the firewall near the transmission dipstick, replace those as early as possible. Rest is fun!

I'm in Dallas. I always prefer OEM, usually through the internet to save $$. Thanks for the heads up...

I did see something about the Heater T-Joints somewhere. I'm not a mechanic, but I've done some DIY things on previous vehicles. Is this something I can do? Also, what does this prevent, or what can these cause if they fail?

 

[nissanh]

You are welcome!


Yes, it is a DIY job. Here in mud, they call it a 1 banana job!

Coolant runs through it, any leak due to snapping the joint can release coolant out of the cooling system leading to overheating the engine.

To minimize the coolant drain during the replacement, have the new T-joints near. Slide the hose clamps off the joint and quickly remove the old T-joint and insert the new joint in. Do the same to the other. Add some distilled water/coolant 50:50 to the radiator.

DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important*

Try to get a battery terminal cover to insulate the positive terminal of your battery. I see it is exposed.

 

[YodatheLC]

I'm in Dallas. I always prefer OEM, usually through the internet to save $$. Thanks for the heads up...

I did see something about the Heater T-Joints somewhere. I'm not a mechanic, but I've done some DIY things on previous vehicles. Is this something I can do? Also, what does this prevent, or what can these cause if they fail?

Just realized someone beat me to it! Yes that thread is a good one! Enjoy

 

[MattThompson]

I took the dive and picked up a 1999 Land Cruiser with 250K miles. Its a 1-owner and with the exception of the later model wheels, I'm pretty sure it is original. It came with the original window sticker and the options were the 3rd Row (AC, etc.), leather, running boards...and I think something else, not sure.

It comes with a folder full of maintenance, timing belt, fluids, shocks, tires, alternator, etc. all done within the last 20K miles. I haven't gone through everything, but the guy has oil change receipts, etc. I'm thinking maybe he upgraded the brakes/rotors which is why he went with the 18" wheels.

The antenna motor seems to be broken as it only went up about 6". Other than that, everything is stock, original and in good shape. I'm sure I'll find other little things, but the 70 miles back home was fun.

First impressions is the thing is a tank. It is heavy, but drives smooth. So far so good...paid $7K for it.

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Congrats! I saw this one online, and wondered if it was clean as looked in pics!