Been a while since I did mine but..I think turning the crack a couple rotations was the last step before bolting everything back on. The tensioner should apply enough force to keep the belt from slipping, if it still slips something is not right. Assuming the belt is the correct one, make sure all slack is out of the belt except in the area of the tension pulley. If there I slack in the belt, ie: 1 extra "tooth" of belt, between the two cams eventually this slack will cause the belt to jump 1"tooth" on a cam until the slack migrates to the tensioner section. If I remember correctly I advanced the cams CW about half a tooth past the marks, held the belt firm at the PS cam and worked CW to take out any slack. When I pulled the tensioner pin and the belt got tight it rolled the cams back CCW the half tooth. Turn the crank 2 full turns, make sure it lines up at he timing mark, check both cams are still aligned and you should be good to go. Took me a couple tries.