"New" rig, looking to identify parts

[BeratE]

I just got my first 40 a few weeks ago and am currently in the process of trying to track down everything the PO swapped. The rig is a '66, but has a SBC mated to a four speed . I have found the codes for the 350 SBC thanks to Mud, and so far know nothing about the transfer case or the axles.

I would like to know if I have coarse or fine splines on the axles so I can judge if I can do an FJ60 disk swap. Is the best way to check to pull off the hubs, or would pulling off the drive shaft show me? Or should I be able to assume that fine splines came along with the four speed?

The hubs are Warns that I have so far been unable to learn anything about. I have attached a picture if anyone recognizes them. They say M47C on them. Oh and of course the obligatory first rig shot.

Thanks for the help

 

[BeratE]

On top of that the steering setup is a mystery too. What kind of steering box is this?

You can see that the PO cut a notch in the shock mount for the rod to pass through, in something kind of like a Saginaw PS setup, only minus the PS. Seems pretty crappy to have to weaken the suspension mount though just to save on the amount of linkage joints.

 

[alkarich]

A friendly hello and welcome to mud. Also a friendly reminder about your bezel.

 

[rockcod]

Did the PO notch the top portion of the frame horn to mount that steering box? If so, I would be more concerned about the steering set-up and the weakened frame. I would not drive it until I fixed it or had it fixed. Post up side pics of the steering box and mount.

Congratulations on the new Cruiser, now make it safe!!

 

[alkarich]

As far as the axles, I would not assume fine spline due to the 4sp. I'm not sure but pulling off the diff cover might be the definitive way to find out. Do you have access to some 60 axles? Perhaps just a straight swap might be possible.

 

[crushr]

Your hubs are old barrel style warns, which I believe were only made in 6 (coarse) spline version. Your axle likely has ball and claw joints (not birfields) w/ coarse spline stub axles. Only true way to verify is to open the knuckle.

 

[BeratE]

Thanks for the hello, suggestions, and info. I do not have access to the 60 axles yet, but there seems to be a fairly large FJ community out here in Denver, so it can't be that difficult to find. I thought I had read that unless I had Birfields, I would not be able to stuff the 60 axles into the housings.

Rockcod - here is a shot from the side. It is a crappy shot, but maybe you can see that the PO cut through both the upper and lower portions of the frame, and welded in a scab plate. It certainly looks like it could fold up under any real pressure. The rig is being torn down for the winter though, so don't worry, it is not being driven. I am just trying to determine if I should just make a U-shaped plate that would restrengthen the frame and also function as a scab plate for a Saginaw conversion.

know anything about the box itself? I has an embossed "S" on it...

Crushr - thanks for telling me about the barrel style, as I haven't found any info about them yet. Were they ever a factory item? Any advantage to them that you know of?

 

[Poser]

S= Saginaw.


Saginaw manual steering gear.


Yes, you will deffinately need to do something to repair that frame section that was cut away to mount that steering gear.


Look in the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) and find the Power Steering Conversion section. In there, you will find Saginaw power steering conversions. You will see mounting plates and how this conversion is done and get some ideas on how that front frame horn should look and where the steering shaft is located.


The factory did not have lockouts on these early trucks, they had drive plates. Dealerships installed different lockout assemblies when the customer requested them. Those lockouts are the older, ‘barrel style’ Warns, named so because of their shape. Note also that in your picture it would appear as some bolts are missing and others are loose.

As has been stated, the only sure way to KNOW what you have in the front axle housing will be to remove a front axle shaft, which, will involve removing the lockout, wheel, hub/bearing assembly, brake backing plate and spindle from the knuckle. Then you will be able to pull the front axle shaft from the axle housing and verify exactly what you have. Any other way is pure speculation. Odds on, you will need to find yourself a new front axle housing to swap the 60 series disc brake components onto.

 

[BeratE]

Thanks for the replies. The frame had the upper portion of the C cut and a 3/8" scab plate is welded in. When I relocate the gear box for a PS setup I will most likely weld in an L shape to make a full box. Could I assume that the non-PS Saginaw box I clearly have would have the same bolt spacing as the PS version? Before pulling out the axle to "know" the spline situation, are there any identifying numbers on the 3rd member to tell me a year of manufacture? If it is not '66 like my truck and instead newer I may assume the axles got swapped when the tranny went in. Otherwise it seems like the only difficult part about removing the axle is the need to purchase a big freaking socket to remove the nut behind the hub.

Any known disadvantages of the barrel style hubs?

 

[BeratE]

I was just reading that the flange bolt spacing changed from my '66 to the later ones. Am I confused in thinking that before pulling the axles, this would be a possible indicator of newer, possibly fine splined axles? The new ones being 60mm and 68.5mm.

 

[Poser]

Could I assume that the non-PS Saginaw box I clearly have would have the same bolt spacing as the PS version?

The manual steering gears are a physically smaller steering gear assembly compared to the power steering gears. You will definitely want to replace that whole frame section.

Any known disadvantages of the barrel style hubs?

Just that it is an old drum brake component, which means you have drum brakes.....Which were used from 1958 to 07/75.

I was just reading that the flange bolt spacing changed from my '66 to the later ones. Am I confused in thinking that before pulling the axles, this would be a possible indicator of newer, possibly fine splined axles? The new ones being 60mm and 68.5mm.

"Flange bolt spacing?"


If you are talking about the companion flange on the differential where the drive shaft attaches, then no, that would not be a good indicator of what you have under that truck as the pinions were splined the same until 1978, when the pinion, not the axles, changed to a fine spline.

Before pulling out the axle to "know" the spline situation, are there any identifying numbers on the 3rd member to tell me a year of manufacture?

There are no external markings that indicate what you have hiding in that axle in all honesty. Too many parts can swap around to say definitively that your axle shafts are fine or coarse spline at the differential. To know for sure what you have, you will need to remove an axle shaft and look at things, both front and rear.