New Mod - Locking centre diff using transfer shift lever (no electronics!)

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I've never been on facebook so someone must have borrowed my photos haha
LOL no s***?

Here are the pics he's putting up. Looking at them closer they do look slightly different. Your welds look a lot better.

Perhaps the two of you are just quantumly entangled and started building the exact same thing at the exact same time?

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So it's definitely doable, but this one got shelved as I got busy with other stuff / got bored and chased the next shiny thing that crossed my field of vision. I plan to go back to it. My main workbench currently looks like this:
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I did do a bunch more back in February though, after I last posted in this thread. I attempted to switch the mechanism over, and I can confirm it will definitely work. The shift lever shaft is compatible, with exactly the same depth into the case, and same width to lock into the tabs on the shift fork. The motor driven locking version has a rounded edge where the shift lever engages with the fork, while the manual shift version has a flat edge, which actually means the manual version has stronger engagement with less wear over time, but the two critical measurements - case depth and width at the engagement point, are identical:
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There is, however, one small catch. The manual shift lever has a thinner depth for that engagement point, as it's on a hinge so it can swivel to actuate the second shift fork. The fact it's thinner isn't a problem, in and of itself, and as mentioned, it actually has better engagement, the problem is the alternate shift fork for the electronically locked versions. They were machined with taller "tabs", which cause slight interference when the arm needs to pivot:
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Both arms sit at the same depth, but due to the difference in thickness of the lever, and the fact the tabs on the shift fork were left to extend longer than they needed to on the motor driven version, those tabs would need to be shaved by a few mm to suit the pivoting shift lever on the manual version. Apart from this interference issue, everything else checked out. At this point though, I started debating on the best way to trim these tabs. If I was precise and clean enough, I believe there's a tab length that works cleanly for both lever mechanisms. I didn't have the right gear to do a precision cut though, so after going back and forth between grabbing a grinder or dremel and just going at it in the vice, vs building some kind of jig and milling it nicely in the press, I ended up doing neither of those things and left the parts strewn out on my workbench while I did other stuff. Hoping to get back to it at some point. I'll need to clear the workbench though, as I'm about to do a head rebuild.
So i finally found time to get in there, unfortunately I pulled up a later 97' diagram and for some reason it only shows some of the parts electric or direct. pulling up a 1990 seems to show everything in both versions. Bummer because I'm going to have to put it all back togeather if i want to be able to drive it, can't wait a month on more parts unless somebody has a hf1a and can share the detentions of all the slots on the shaft where the manual lever rides, i can probably rotate it 180 degrees and mill the other side to make it work but would need to be precise.

if anybody else wants to give it a try get this:

36313-60090 SHAFT, TRANSFER FRONT DRIVE SHIFT FORK

96160-00900 clip
36361-60040 inner lever
36362-60050 outer lever

if you dont want to gind/mill your forks then order these too:
36311-60070 DIRECT TYPE & PART TIME 4WD FORK, TRANSFER GEAR SHIFT, NO.1
36302-60150 FORK, TRANSFER GEAR SHIFT, NO.2

the detent springs are a little different too and most of those are not available, I don't think that's going to be a big deal, if you use your same lever its just going to go straight up and down, no side to side. If there is enough throw in the lever it should all work.
 
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