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What are the specs on this LX? If it’s a decent deal I wouldn’t let these two issues hold me back, but use them for some negotiating.

But I’d have the mindset that they would never get fixed, just in case you’re not able to chase down these gremlins. If that’s a deal beaker then walk away.
 
Leaky2014 - that's a big difference! By DIY are you saying replace the potentially faulty control/switch? I read about ECU failures but they seemed to show themselves by the light not coming on at all.

lx200inAR - any experience with either? Thinking really hard about pulling the trigger on this but would rather not dump a couple grand chasing these issues. Looks like LH mirrors are about $700 new for the entire assembly. Climate switches are about $200 new from Lexus, I'm sure they can be found for less.
I haven't had any issues with my mirrors. You generally don't have to buy a whole new mirror. Here's a YT video from a forum member on repairing one.



The light being stuck on for the climate-controlled seats does seem to be a strange failure mode. Usually when the ECU fails the light will not turn on at all. So it does lean towards being a switch first. There is an ECU you can check with Techstream that might give you a fault code to more quickly diagnose. Also, you can probably find a replacement switch on eBay for pretty cheap (used OEM) or might be a good item to look for from Partsouq. Either way, if it's only the seat control, that's probably not a big deal to fix. Also, there's a thread on MUD where people are experimenting with replacing the seat ECUs with ECUs from LS460s, which used, are far more prevalent and about 1/10th the price.

All that to say, it would be nice to know if it's leaking or not. If it is, that would be a powerful bargaining chip. I got an okay deal on my LX (just before the prices ballooned in 2020), but i found out after i bought it the reason the dealership was trying to unload it was because it had a cowl leak that they couldn't fix. Luckily it didn't end up being that bad once I found it and fixed it. So, it worked out in my favor, but I certainly would have bargained even harder if I had known previous to buying it that it was leaking.

If it's in an open lot uncovered, you could try to go look at it after a rain. If it's not wet on the interior somewhere, there's a decient chance it's fine. But there's a lot of IFs in that scenario. If they will let you take it overnight, It only takes about 5 min to get to the connectors in question on each side (a little longer on driver's side) to check out the status of the connectors. I'm not sure how "cool" it would be to take apart something that you don't own that far, but considering the asking price for these things even though they are 15yrs old, I think it's at least justifiable.

All this to say, most of the common stuff isn't too bad to work on, as it's already had a lot of t-shooting groundwork laid out here in the forums. The cowl leak takes quite a bit, i think, to get into the electronics. It dumps water out into the passenger floorboard and doesn't really go directly into the body electrical plugs. A sunroof or windshield leak is harder to detect and more damaging as that water runs down the A pillar right into the plugs.
 
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You're right grinchy, they aren't necessary but I like for everything to be in working order on my vehicles. My entire 25 year career has been in maintenance and maintenance engineering so staying on top of repairs is a big deal for me.

I doubt the dealership will allow me to tear apart the kick panels and take the connectors apart so are there any other signs I could look for? Discolored carpet maybe?
I test drove mine for a few days prior to purchase.
Maybe you can do something similar, giving you the time to inspect...
 
I'm going this afternoon to see if the carpet is damp in the floorboards (it's rained A LOT the last couple of days) and to re-check the seat climate controls now that I understand how they work. Will also verify it's a Lexus windshield as well. Thanks for all the great info, it has helped me understand more about what I might be getting in to.
 
Any more info?
 
Windshield was not factory, passenger seat climate control did not work (the light did stay green all the time but no change in the actual seat temps), driver seat climate was fine, carpet was dry but under the carpet the padding had some discoloration, front camera did not work, driver side headrest screen would not power on and the center diff wouldn't lock. I decided to keep looking...
 
The cdl / 4low is a common issue on these. I test drove several 200s that did not function or were slow. I ended up with one the did not function because the salesman is lying scum. The dealer did take care of it though, $4k.
 
I've passed on it. All the little things started to add up. Going to look at a couple of 100 series LCs today. While I really like the 200 series, the 100 is what originally started out looking for.
 
I've passed on it. All the little things started to add up. Going to look at a couple of 100 series LCs today. While I really like the 200 series, the 100 is what originally started out looking for.
Though not impossible, finding a well cared for 16+ year vehicle for sale is going to be difficult. You have your work cut out for you. How many owners have there been on the cruisers your looking at?
 
I get that but luckily I'm not in a hurry to buy something. I would have been willing to take on one or two of the things wrong on that vehicle but as the list grew I felt like maybe I could do better.
 
Well, I ended up getting the 200 series I had mentioned above. I explained all my concerns to the folks and they let me dig around and look at some stuff. We pulled the trim on the sides of the windshield and found that rivets had indeed been used and there was no water intrusion on the junction connectors. We found a gravel parking lot not too far away and cycled the diff lock until it was working properly then did the same for the 4lo. We were also able to verify the AHC is working as designed (I just wasn't familiar enought to know how to work it). I've ordered a service kit for the mirror and a techstream cable. I'll dig into the seat climate control and the other small issues when I get time. Brought it home Tuesday and so far I love it! Thanks again for all the help, hopefully I'll be able to contribute at some point.
 
Well, I ended up getting the 200 series I had mentioned above. I explained all my concerns to the folks and they let me dig around and look at some stuff. We pulled the trim on the sides of the windshield and found that rivets had indeed been used and there was no water intrusion on the junction connectors. We found a gravel parking lot not too far away and cycled the diff lock until it was working properly then did the same for the 4lo. We were also able to verify the AHC is working as designed (I just wasn't familiar enought to know how to work it). I've ordered a service kit for the mirror and a techstream cable. I'll dig into the seat climate control and the other small issues when I get time. Brought it home Tuesday and so far I love it! Thanks again for all the help, hopefully I'll be able to contribute at some point.
Congrats.. and you know this is the internet.. so pics or it didn’t happen!
 
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Ha! I'll try to get a couple tomorrow. Been too busy figuring out all the controls and just enjoying it.
 
20230115_122448.webp
 
Heated/Vented seat controls.

Green light is ON when switch is selected any level of cooling or heating, and only OFF when in the top 12 o'clock position. Does not matter on whether switch is up or down. If your light is on permanently, the below diagram would indicate a faulty switch unit only.

View attachment 3208579

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Replaced switch today...same issue, green light on all the time. Looking at the diagram above, I suppose a faulty seat heater control could allow a path to make the light stay on all the time. Where can I find diagrams/schematics for my LX to assist in troubleshooting?
 
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