New Fuse location

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86aggie

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Aug 13, 2017
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RICHMOND, VIRGINIA
I used power coming off a spare slow blow fuse( I installed when I was replacing my fusible links at the battery) to power my seats. Now I need to power the seat heaters and am rethinking how I powered the seats. I am thinking that I should run to a separate, new fuse block from the battery, and then a fuse for each power circuit(3 for each seat), except the illumination for the heater switch. I was reading the posts about the headlight relay/direct power solution and someone made a comment about installing the fuses as close to the battery as possible. That was the first time I had seen that recommendation.

Is there a functional reason or convenience reason for doing so, or is it personal preference?
 
I wouldn't run power directly to another fuse block. I would run the fused power thru a switched relay to power the fuse block. that way nothing gets left on and drains the battery.
 
Toyota placed its fuse panel far away from the battery, so the blanket statement to mount another one as close to the battery isn't really solid.

But the reason to do so, is safety. Unless you install a fuse for the fuse box right at the battery, (another fusible link) the length of thick battery cable carrying the + volts running to the fuse box will be unfused. That's not good wiring practice.

So you could install a second fuse box somewhere inside the cabin, maybe near the glove box area— but you'll have that long ass big + cable snaking through the firewall and fender cutout just begging to cause a vehicle fire if vibration chafes through the insulation and that thick sucker has sex with the body (ground). Sparks will fly, but you won't fall in love as you witness first hand the pornographic process of combustible fluids magically coverting into orange and yellow flames (and smoke).

So do yourself a favor and mount a second fuse box as close to the battery as possible, with the thick Batt plus cable routed straight to the battery with no hanky panky in between.
 
So I could use the spare slow blow fuse I have adjacent to the air cleaner(on inside of fender, I did a block of 5) and feed the new fuse block from there?
 
Do something like this

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I ran a large cable to my tuffy center console and built a fuse panel there. From the center console I can power my seats, their heaters, and other accessories. As OSS said with the relay comment to prevent things from draining: I did something similar and added a switchable blue sea marine circuit breaker between the battery and the center console fuse box. This allows me to switch it off so nothing can drain.

The blue sea circuit breakers are acutally made by Eaton and are priced reasonably on waytekwire. They come in all different ratings and panel mount or surface mount. It takes my abuse and works great.

EATON's Bussmann Series 187050P-03-1 Circuit Breaker | Waytek

OSS,
That's funny. I house my Blue Sea ACR dual battery setup in a waterproof project box in the engine bay. :D
 
see post below. can't delete this one.
 
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2000ish Landrover Discovery Series II driver's and toyota highlander passenger (airbag recalls get thrown in the trash at dealers if you know a tech).

I was recently given two additional Discovery seats that I will be swapping in as my current one has tears starting in the leather. Very comfortable for longer drives. I also mounted the seat farther back since I am tall and I don't like my knees in my face.
 
I did something similar to Randy. Used 4GA welding wire. Near battery installed ANL fuse. From ANL to center console wrapped the 4GA in high temp braided sleeve. In the center console I stepped down to 8GA for a fuse box and can still run 4GA to the rear for a compressor. Also made a plexiglass divider in console to keep junk from banging into the fuse box.
 
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I use Bussman fuse/relay boxes in my builds. Often there are two put in the truck, one controls the new headlights and has open slots available as well and the other has extra lights and circuits with extra fused slots as well. They are compact and the model I use ha 5 relay spots and 10 fuse spots. I generally wire up the unused spots with pig tails for future use. The mounting plate shown is something I had cut and is a general piece that I cut to use as required. The holes on the side are for ground bus bars, check out the link.

DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

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This box is set up with 5 fuse/relay circuits and 5 fused circuits. Each circuit has it's own ground. That is a whole lot of electrical potential in one little box.

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It doesn't make a difference, but why have the relays installed 'upside down' to the writing in the panel?

I use Bussman fuse/relay boxes in my builds. Often there are two put in the truck, one controls the new headlights and has open slots available as well and the other has extra lights and circuits with extra fused slots as well. They are compact and the model I use ha 5 relay spots and 10 fuse spots. I generally wire up the unused spots with pig tails for future use. The mounting plate shown is something I had cut and is a general piece that I cut to use as required. The holes on the side are for ground bus bars, check out the link.

DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

17499161_1468776496486570_5890505994557008117_n.jpg



17309352_1457491480948405_1285592733217621861_n.jpg

I would have to highly recommend these also! Great panels, and easy to assemble. I also have used a couple of the 2 relay/3 fuse versions and like them for simple add on circuits.
 
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I too have two of those Eaton RTMR boxes in my truck. One was from slcfj62 when he was making headlight harnesses and the other I use in my center console for power distribution to seats etc.

Those boxes can come with high covers which allow for special circuit breakers in place of fuses. Very convenient.
 
It doesn't make a difference, but why have the relays installed 'upside down' to the writing in the panel?

It has to do with the switches going to the dash, explained far better than I can in the link above.
 

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