New FJ80 owner, Transmission issue
- Thread starter Jwalsh22
- Start date
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@Jwalsh22,
Very helpful video. I'm going to have to watch it a few more times later, but first observation is there seems to be some slop in the driveline which would be expected for 218K but is not related to your immediate issue(s). I no longer think the drive flanges are stripped, worn maybe but only partially contribute to the slop. Others things like u-joints etc.
Have you checked to make sure trans fluid is correct level when warm?
The transmission does not shift into overdrive (4th) until engine temp is warm.
I think your current issue is either, linkage is worn or out of adjustment or something electrical in bad connection or with the shift solenoids.
The 93-94 models use a separate transmission control unit and your current symptoms seem to match when I accidentally disconnected in my truck while routing the wiring for some new toys. It's located above the brake pedal.
It's hard to provide an arm chair diagnosis because things keep changing i.e. last test drive it stayed in 2 even when shifted to D. Also it is very, very, did I say very likely the D light on the dash is burnt out. That light has been on 99.99% of the time the vehicle is running. A lot of guys don't fix it because they don't need a bright green D in there face on a long trip at night.
Very helpful video. I'm going to have to watch it a few more times later, but first observation is there seems to be some slop in the driveline which would be expected for 218K but is not related to your immediate issue(s). I no longer think the drive flanges are stripped, worn maybe but only partially contribute to the slop. Others things like u-joints etc.
Have you checked to make sure trans fluid is correct level when warm?
The transmission does not shift into overdrive (4th) until engine temp is warm.
I think your current issue is either, linkage is worn or out of adjustment or something electrical in bad connection or with the shift solenoids.
The 93-94 models use a separate transmission control unit and your current symptoms seem to match when I accidentally disconnected in my truck while routing the wiring for some new toys. It's located above the brake pedal.
It's hard to provide an arm chair diagnosis because things keep changing i.e. last test drive it stayed in 2 even when shifted to D. Also it is very, very, did I say very likely the D light on the dash is burnt out. That light has been on 99.99% of the time the vehicle is running. A lot of guys don't fix it because they don't need a bright green D in there face on a long trip at night.
Forgot to add the ABS dash light is normal when the CDL is locked. It's warning you that ABS has been disabled. Normally this turns off when the CDL is unlocked. The exception being if you exceed 33 MPH while disabled then it will remained disabled until you turn off the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #25
Update here. I pulled the TCU and it looks good (nothing burnt inside). I have been messing about with the NSS connection by the starter and although I can't get the clip undone to see the connection, Im 99% sure thats at least part of the issue. I was just trying to loosen it and it got the transmission to start in 1st on D (still no shifting as it should automatically) and it also makes the gear selector lights for the dash flicker on and off when im messing about with that connector. Something is certainly corroded there. Ill keep trying to clean that plug but thats got to be some of this issue.
@Jwalsh22
The joining connections between the engine and transmission, located directly above the starter are the first places to look when you have transmission related problems. These two joins are directly below coolant lines that leak and corrode them internally. This is a very common failure point.
Look above the starter and try to locate the water bypass hose, connected to the lower right rear corner of the head (AKA pesky heater hose). If this hose looks like it's been replaced, especially with an aftermarket hose and worm drive garden hose clamps, you have found the source of your problems. The OEM hose failed and hot coolant sprayed the connector housings. I have a '94 that had this happed to it and, due to the fact that I haven't completely disassembled the connector housings and cleaned the terminals, I'm still having problems resulting form the failure, years after the fact. I know what it is, and I'm living with it because I can, and because I have too many irons in the fire right now and it hasn't bubbled up to the top of the list yet.
If you're having problems disconnecting them, remove the left front wheel and the starter, and spray both connector housings liberally with plastic safe contact cleaner. I use CRC QD cleaner, but you can use whatever you like. Do not use petroleum based lubricants; they will eat into the conenctor housings and they will crumble.
FWIW, no matter what the gear indicator on the shift console indicates, the transmission always starts in 1st gear; it cannot start in 3rd. Details are in the transmission section of the service manual. You can use the '94 manual if you don't have a good copy of the '93 manual. They are the same.
The joining connections between the engine and transmission, located directly above the starter are the first places to look when you have transmission related problems. These two joins are directly below coolant lines that leak and corrode them internally. This is a very common failure point.
Look above the starter and try to locate the water bypass hose, connected to the lower right rear corner of the head (AKA pesky heater hose). If this hose looks like it's been replaced, especially with an aftermarket hose and worm drive garden hose clamps, you have found the source of your problems. The OEM hose failed and hot coolant sprayed the connector housings. I have a '94 that had this happed to it and, due to the fact that I haven't completely disassembled the connector housings and cleaned the terminals, I'm still having problems resulting form the failure, years after the fact. I know what it is, and I'm living with it because I can, and because I have too many irons in the fire right now and it hasn't bubbled up to the top of the list yet.
If you're having problems disconnecting them, remove the left front wheel and the starter, and spray both connector housings liberally with plastic safe contact cleaner. I use CRC QD cleaner, but you can use whatever you like. Do not use petroleum based lubricants; they will eat into the conenctor housings and they will crumble.
FWIW, no matter what the gear indicator on the shift console indicates, the transmission always starts in 1st gear; it cannot start in 3rd. Details are in the transmission section of the service manual. You can use the '94 manual if you don't have a good copy of the '93 manual. They are the same.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks for the reply, Ill clean that connector today. I spent some time under there and getting that connection undone is a PITA. Ill update once its out. I tried reading previous topics on this issue and it seems that people can attribute weird shifting either to the NSS or TCU or Solenoids 9/10 times. Just trying to cross things off the list systematically.
Both of them.
If the coolant hose hasn't bathed them, then the next reasonable suspect is the NSS. Solenoids are the cause of shifting problems under power, not starting from a standstill. This is most common in the A442F, and doesn't apply to the later A343F.
If you're near Charlotte, PM me. I'd be glad to help.
If the coolant hose hasn't bathed them, then the next reasonable suspect is the NSS. Solenoids are the cause of shifting problems under power, not starting from a standstill. This is most common in the A442F, and doesn't apply to the later A343F.
If you're near Charlotte, PM me. I'd be glad to help.
- Thread starter
- #29
Im in Wilmington. If you have checked out the video I posted you may also come to the conclusion its a bunch of things going wrong. It will not shift gears automatically under any circumstance. Any time Ive gotten out for a drive it had to be manually selected and D was always my final gear which is why I assumed it would be 3rd. Other times, When I shift to D It will sometimes act like its in first. very sporadic.
I understand how frustrating these things can be. Toyota originally used the fully hydraulic A440F, but replaced it in 1993, because of the EPA; using transmissions to chase CAFE targets has since become a ritual in Detroit. And elsewhere.
The fully hydraulic transmissions are nearly bullet proof, although the A440F is a dog due to gear ratios, it actually does work reliably. The problem for technicians is that hydraulic systems are notoriously difficult to diagnose, so Toyota opted for a hybrid version with the A442F, for the US market. That didn't work out well, either for diagnosis or fuel economy, so we got the fully electronic A343F in 1995.
I remember you mentioning that you were in Wilmington, I just meant to say that if you're in the neighborhood of the capital of northern South Carolina, feel fre to give me a shout. I can also fix this problem for you, if you can't either do it yourself, or find someone closer to you. LMK
As always, PM me if you think a conversation would prove beneficial.
The fully hydraulic transmissions are nearly bullet proof, although the A440F is a dog due to gear ratios, it actually does work reliably. The problem for technicians is that hydraulic systems are notoriously difficult to diagnose, so Toyota opted for a hybrid version with the A442F, for the US market. That didn't work out well, either for diagnosis or fuel economy, so we got the fully electronic A343F in 1995.
I remember you mentioning that you were in Wilmington, I just meant to say that if you're in the neighborhood of the capital of northern South Carolina, feel fre to give me a shout. I can also fix this problem for you, if you can't either do it yourself, or find someone closer to you. LMK
As always, PM me if you think a conversation would prove beneficial.
Jwalsh
Just read your posting. I have a 91 FJ80 with 190k on it and trans is still ok. I also had a Nissan 2001 Exterra with 240 K miles on it and the trans started giving me issue. I would need to start in 1st then shift to Drive. In drive it would shift to neutral. I trouble shot everyting and could not find any problems. The I put a can of Sea Foam Trans Tune and suprisigly it actuall solved all my problems. I have tried diffirent additives in the past for various things and they never worked- probably all snake oil. However the Sea Foan Trans Tune actually worked. I also added a can in my landcruiser and Nissan 2003 Frontier and it also helped trans shift better. Might be worth a try. Just add the can and leave it in, no need to drain any before adding- the amount added is not large. You can buy at Auto Zone or Orielly among other suppliers. Might be worth a try. I should add need to put in the trans tune then drive for 20 miles or more shifting in and out of gears to get it to circulate through the system
Good Luck
Just read your posting. I have a 91 FJ80 with 190k on it and trans is still ok. I also had a Nissan 2001 Exterra with 240 K miles on it and the trans started giving me issue. I would need to start in 1st then shift to Drive. In drive it would shift to neutral. I trouble shot everyting and could not find any problems. The I put a can of Sea Foam Trans Tune and suprisigly it actuall solved all my problems. I have tried diffirent additives in the past for various things and they never worked- probably all snake oil. However the Sea Foan Trans Tune actually worked. I also added a can in my landcruiser and Nissan 2003 Frontier and it also helped trans shift better. Might be worth a try. Just add the can and leave it in, no need to drain any before adding- the amount added is not large. You can buy at Auto Zone or Orielly among other suppliers. Might be worth a try. I should add need to put in the trans tune then drive for 20 miles or more shifting in and out of gears to get it to circulate through the system
Good Luck
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- Thread starter
- #33
Hey man thanks for the advice. I went to redo the solunoids and sure enough, The PO really did redo them. The trans sheild was missing and it had fresh sealer. Im going to assume he did them correctly. Back to the drawing board. Ill try the trans tune.
Good luck with the trans tune. I was suprised it actually worked. I think it cleans all the small passage ways in the transmission. If you do end up going to a transmission shop make sure it is a good one. I am in Hawaii and cannot find any that want to work on older transmissions and they all just want to install a rebuilt one. Your issue could also be the gear position sensor. The hand shifter is connected to this device and the linkage needs to be adjusted so that the indicator matches the gear position sensor electrical contacts. The sensor itself could also be worn out. Here is the sensor:
- Thread starter
- #35
Hi, I tried the trans tune, Drove it about an hour and no such luck. Im dropping the pan and firing off solenoids today because I have them and frankly why not. Ill keep updating as we go. If the solenoids aren't, I'm going to pull and clean the gear selector switch for the trans and make sure the linkage is OK. We can determine some things are "out" at this time. 1.Drive flanges OK 2. Fluid level OK 3. Kickdown cable OK Soon 4.Solunoids will be firmly crossed out after this afternoon.
You really are going about this the hard way. IMHO, you need to verify the engine–transmission harness connections are valid before you tear the transmission open.
FWIW, gear additives only coat the friction surfaces of the clutches to improve shifting. You problems, at least as you've stated, are failure to shift not slipping, so it's no surprise the magic in a bottle didn't help.
FWIW, gear additives only coat the friction surfaces of the clutches to improve shifting. You problems, at least as you've stated, are failure to shift not slipping, so it's no surprise the magic in a bottle didn't help.
Jwalsh
I found that the trans may have the parts throttle link and valve lever. Looks to be adjustments on these parts. Cannot find much more information. Does your trans have this or do other posters know?
I found that the trans may have the parts throttle link and valve lever. Looks to be adjustments on these parts. Cannot find much more information. Does your trans have this or do other posters know?
Here is an old thread that may help:
- Thread starter
- #39
Yeah. I know Im opening up the parts cannon. I just dread electrical and would rather fire off this common problem and just cross it off the list. Is it a waste? Possibly. Ill let you know! I just read so many threads where this was the fix, It also gives me some data on the condition of the trans when I drop the pan. (shavings metal etc)
Fair enough, but you have to unclip those two connectors to pull the transmission...just sayin'.
This isn't really "electrical" work. Ask an electrical engineer; he'll tell you anything you can touch is mechanical. At worst, you're just cleaning terminals.
This isn't really "electrical" work. Ask an electrical engineer; he'll tell you anything you can touch is mechanical. At worst, you're just cleaning terminals.
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