New FJ62 Owner - Question About Cooling Fan Sensor

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Mar 12, 2006
Tacoma/Chelan, WA

I'm a new owner of a 1990 FJ62. Had a great time bed-lining the tub and now overhauling the front axles. I'm a hack - so bear through these questions.

Just prior to selling me the vehicle, the previous owner installed a new (used) cooling fan sensor (Spector Offroad part 044-90)
His reason for doing so was, after the engine was turned off after running a bit, the cooling fan the senor links to (looks like a blower of sorts) and in turn blows on an area around the maniforld (fuel injection area?) - was not turning itself on to cool the engine. Consequently, the truck was sometimes hard to start up again after a little rest due to accumulated condensation blocking the delivery of fuel (this is the theory he gave me at least).
Anyway, he put the sensor in and then I proceeded to drive from San Diego back to Washington. Only once did the cooling fan self-activate. I checked the connection that relays from the senor to the fan, but no luck. Therefore, on my trip, I often experienced the situation of occasional difficult starting (note: the problem did not occur when I cracked the hood 10 inches when making brief stops).
What can I do to get this fan self-activating properly. Your assistance is appreciated.

if you are talking about the sensor for the "carb" blower, it is located on a flange on the exhaust manifold, just above where the exhaust pipe and manifold connect. it is a "wax" pellet type sensor. recheck all your connections and fuses.
plus, your cooling fan my be on its way to the boneyard also.
I'm probably way off here, but I thought the carb cooling fan was only available on carburated FJ60's?
I live in Washington as well and I have to say that on FJ62's that engine compartment cooling fan rarely turns on. On hot days in California (like 90+ degrees) I've had it come on when I've turned the engine off but a year can go by up here without it running and there's never any problem. I've heard others on this board say the same thing: on 62s they barely ever come on, while on 60s they come on more frequently.
I don't know about that condensation thing you're describing. Maybe someone else can help you out w/ that. But FWIW I don't think you're describing an abnormal FJ62 behavior. Perhaps the rough starting is totally unrelated?
What may the problem be, then?

Thanks a lot for the replies thus far. If I go with the last theory that the "blower" is typically inactive and that such is normal, where do you think I need to start in addressing the "real" problem. Here's the essential facts:

1) Starts great cold
2) After running for awhile, if I shut engine off and try to start after say 15-20 minutes, I may have to wait any additional 10 minutes of "cooling time" (with the hood cracked open) in order to turn over.
3) After running for awhile, if I shut the engine off and at that same time crack the hood open about 10 - 12 inches (a method imparted upon me by the previous owner), the vehicle generally starts up right away.

I don't think the issue is related to the starter (again, new rebuilt starter just installed)- it seems like it's a fuel delivery issue. There's something about the cooling period or open hood theory that takes care of the problem, most of the time. Remember, I'm a complete hack, so I apologize if my questions or logic are elementary.

Thanks again for the responses - this is an incredible resource. A hack like me is re-sealing his knuckles with confidence following links and advice I discovered through this site - to me that's amazing!
I'm a fellow hack but here goes...

A lot of folks have seen great improvement after replacing that FPR. I did it and didn't notice a change at all, but I haven't been getting the problems you have. It seems like an easy enough fix, though... and doesn't cost a ton through C-dan.

If this truck is new to you (which it sounds like it is), you really should also change the fuel filter. Perhaps it's clogged somehow? I'm curious to hear if either of those solves your problem.

The hood opening thing doesn't seem like it could be alleviating either of the above issues, though. Is your engine running hot according to your gauges?
Not hot here

No indication that it runs hot. I flew down to San Diego to buy it and drove it to the Seattle area in about 5 days. Only thing that got hot was the A.T. oil, and that was only in the midst of the longer hauls. I'll try the FPR and oil filter and see if it helps.
Good luck... remember when you order the fuel filter and FPR that you'll need some new little brass washers that go with it. They crush a bit as you tighten the bolts back and create a tight seal so that nothing will leak around the banjo bolts. I think in the case of the FPR you'll need two of them, while the fuel filter has four. And no, I don't believe they come with the main part for some silly reason.

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