New CSF radiator bad right out of the box?

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The radiator is $750.00 or there about

And while we are correcting spelling or punctuation errors its GriffIn ;)
 
Have to check my records but I think the CSF in our 94 is going on 3 years trouble free. The other day when the AC was on, and we were sitting in the direct sun with no airflow and almost 100 deg ambient air I saw the temp gauge break 200. That's the first time its ever done that. Dropped back down in the 190's after we started moving. I've been very happy with it, but in the winter I usually block half of it with some cardboard, otherwise it takes forever to warm the truck up to operating temp.
 
:doh:

Back on track: I'll take a look today at where the shroud meets the rad. I know there's no foam, but I also remember thinking during the install that it was a pretty solid, snug fit.
 
CJF said:
:doh:

Back on track: I'll take a look today at where the shroud meets the rad. I know there's no foam, but I also remember thinking during the install that it was a pretty solid, snug fit.
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It may not seem like much, but closing that slot helps. It wouldn't surprise me if a radiator installed without the same as factory might lose as much as 10% of its cooling capacity.

On the 1FZ, the biggest, widest piece of foam is the one on the bottom, so easy to overlook or think it wasn't important. Not sure whether OEM is available. I used square section foam from the lumber yard available in several sizes made with peel-off adhesive on one side.

I've actually had decent luck with Autobone stuff. You get what you pay for, so best to avoid the economy options, if they are offered. I visited the link provided and it was smart enough to tell me that radiator wouldn't fit my truck.;):rolleyes:
 
So to follow up on this CSF rad. replacement thread, I initially dismissed Mr. Helds advice about rad. cap fitment, but I started to think about it and so I dug out my old rad. cap (non-OEM) stant I think, and put it back on and removed my new OEM cap just to see what effect it would have on cooling. The first thing I noticed was the stant cap fits way tighter than the OEM, I also noticed that the coolant in the reserve tank rises and falls more meaning the vacuum is sucking coolant back into the rad. upon cool down. The temps. do seem cooler initially but we'll see. Right now I'm at 197 F coolant temp (IR thermo top of rad.) cruising around town with A/C on in 100 F so I think thats better than before.

Preliminary conclusion:

Perhaps the OEM rad. cap doesn't fit the non-OEM rad. properly.

jonheld said:
Curtis,
Does the system pressurize correctly and bleed off into the overflow the way it's supposed to? The level in the overflow should rise and fall with coolant system pressure. What I'm getting at is possible improper radiator cap fitment on the non OEM radiator.
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Alleycats said:
Preliminary conclusion:

Perhaps the OEM rad. cap doesn't fit the non-OEM rad. properly.
Click to expand...

First cap was new OEM. Then tried: Old aftermarket, old OEM, and now new aftermarket. No change.

T-stat is coming from Onur. I'll put it in, but I'm almost positive it won't do anything. When that turns out to be the case, i'm pulling the rad. and likely replacing with the Spectra from autozone. Other option I have is a Murray brand from O'Rielly's. (Is there any reliable info on all these aftermarket brands??? I doubt it...)

I'll post up any results or lack thereof.
 
One more update: I now have a standard hill for testing. Same thing happens every damn time, whether it's 85* or 105*.

1) I'll be in 3rd for a mile or two, 35-45mph. Fan clutch kicks in and out, no issues.

2) Gets steep enough that I manually shift to 2nd. Rpm's go to 2.5-3k, speeds 25-35mph. At this point the fan really roars with the increased rpm's and once again no issues.

3) Continue on like this for about 1.5 miles: Steady incline, 2nd gear, ~35mph. Suddenly you can hear the fan cut out. WTF? Then (of course) the overheating starts.

So assuming the clutch is not faulty (remember I replaced a couple year old OEM with new OEM with no change in symptoms), it seems the clutch really is seeing cool enough temp's to disengage, no? Therefore...?
 
Do you have a real temperature gauge?
 
Nope.

We all know the dash gauge has a huge dead spot in the middle. But we also know it's reliable and consistent. Moving anywhere past halfway = not good.
 
CJF said:
Nope.

We all know the dash gauge has a huge dead spot in the middle. But we also know it's reliable and consistent. Moving anywhere past halfway = not good.
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Yeah, going into red is bad, but you can get awfully close to red and it's only maybe 205 degrees. Still, if it's the stock gauge and it's moving it's not a good sign.

You say you can hear the fan cutting out? There's the first thing to be addressed, I'd say. Something is wrong there. If you're still going uphill, there's no way things are getting cool enough for it to cease then.
 
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