New 2nd Gen Sequoia owner. Quick lift/suspension advice?

[dezahp]

Hi all, just joined and wanted to do a short intro. I just purchased a 2017 Sequoia Limited 4x4 with 83k miles. This is my first large truck/suv coming from a RAV4 so this a huge difference/upgrade for me. It's so much nicer to have all this space. I like to do a lot of outdoor stuff like fishing and camping. Once in a while, some of my friends go camping in pretty secluded places that require off roading so this will be nice once I get it lifted with tires.

I will be looking to do some upgrades gradually over time since it is pretty expensive for just about everything lol. I think the first thing i will be looking to do is get a lift and with AT tires. I'm continuously doing research and got some advice from a friend but my apologies if I end up asking any questions that I'm sure a lot of you see or hear all the time.

There are 3 main builds that I'm looking at and would like any input or suggestions from you guys.

1st build (2.5" lift):
-Bilstein 6112
-Dobinsons IMS Rear Shocks
-Dobinsons C59-719V Rear Spring 2.5"
-SPC UCA

2nd build:
-Dobinsons 2.5" IMS LIFT KIT
-SPC UCA

3rd build (I read that this gives only about a 1.5" lift):
-Used (Gen 3) TRD PRO Fox suspension

Wheels and tires that I'm looking at:
-18" 5x150 rims with 25 offset (most likely SCS SR8 bronze or Method 304 bronze)
-295/70/18 AT tires (I believe these size tires are usually 34.3" tires)

I would like to pick your guys brain especially for if there's anyone that has had experience with these suspensions. I was pretty set on the Bilstein 6112 front/Dobinsons IMS at first but I think I'm leaning more towards the complete Dobinsons 2.5" IMS kit. I've read a couple of people saying that they've liked their Dobinson's IMS kit over their Bilstein 6112 and rides significantly better. A buddy of mine found and suggested me to get a set of used '23 TRD Pro Fox shocks and springs. The only concern for me is that it provides only about a 1.5" lift from what I've read. I'm worried if it will fit 295/70/18 tires and I don't really want to do any cutting or chopping of the body.

I've also seen some guys say they fit 35" tires on the bottom spare tire mount. I think 295/70/18 tires are 34.3". So my plan is to also eventually get a full size tire spare and put it on the bottom spare mount. It would b great if I didn't have to get a rear hitch swinging tire carrier. My concern is do I need to worry about the spare tire hitting against the ground/rocks when off roading?

Excited to get start and thanks for any input!

 

[dezahp]

The TRD Pro Fox was a '23 TRD Pro with ~5k miles for a bout $2200. Seemed a bit pricey but my friend said it's worth it

 

[RanchLady7]

Hello fellow newbie!

On my 4Runner, my '08 Sequoia and now my '18 Sequoia... I have done Bilstein all around when it has come time for suspension. I have no regrets.

For my '18 Tree, there's 6112 in the front and 5100 on the rear. 2" lift and I love the ride. For the price of the Dobs, I just felt like those were overkill based on my needs.

I wish I could remember what I did for the 08. Bilstein for certain, but no idea the models.

Three different shops all said same thing that I read on the forums: 2" is the highest they'll go, citing safety as a concern.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

My 08 came with a regular Dobinsons 2.5" lift, non-IMR. I'm running 17" ICON Recon Pro wheels with a 35x11.50R17 Maxxis Razr AT tire; and can say that the spare ABSOLUTELY does NOT fit underneath. If I deflated it and smooshed it down it might...it was kind of close. Instead I will be modifying an aluminum auxiliary fuel tank to fit where the spare used to reside. Hoping for greater than 17 gallons.

 

[dezahp]

My 08 came with a regular Dobinsons 2.5" lift, non-IMR. I'm running 17" ICON Recon Pro wheels with a 35x11.50R17 Maxxis Razr AT tire; and can say that the spare ABSOLUTELY does NOT fit underneath. If I deflated it and smooshed it down it might...it was kind of close. Instead I will be modifying an aluminum auxiliary fuel tank to fit where thr spare used to reside. Hoping for greater than 17 gallons.

I think I changed my mind into 17" wheels. Ideally, I want to get 35x12.5x17 but would be willing to go a little smaller if I was able to fit it underneath. Do you think 315/70/17 could fit in the spare tire mount? It looks like 315s are 34.36" tires.

Also, do you have any idea if 0 offset wheels are doable with 315/70/17 tires with 2.5" lift? I don't want to do any chopping or modifying or at least very minimal if necessary.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I would caution against 17" wheels. Not many 17" wheels fit and those that do are very close to the caliper. I actually had to have the wheel weights on mine redone because even sticking them as far out as possible they still barely contacted the caliper. I suppose hammer on weights would have solved it also.

As for a 0 offset, when you get into larger tires and especially wider tires you shouldn't look at just the wheel offset. You need to look at the stock wheel width, backspacing and offset, as well as, tire width; and then the wheel you're wanting, width, backspacing, offset and tire width. Drawing yourself a picture to help visualize what the wheel and tire combo are doing will help ensure that overall you're close to the total distance your tire will sit into the fender.

The closer to 0 or a negative offset you get the further your tire sticks out. Most situations you will want no greater than +18 on larger tires on the Sequoia. I went with +25 and have very very minimal rub at full lock. I went with +25 because the wheel is 8.5 wide and the backspacing combined with offset put the tire really close to a sweet spot. I could probably adjust the control arms and get rid of all rub. I will likely do that when I disassemble for locker installation.

As far as the 315's are concerned, all I can say is there is the tires number/calculated size, and then there is the actual physical size of the mounted tire; and you should really look at the mounted physical tire size. Most 35" tires are closer to a "34 or even smaller. The vast majority of 37" tires are closer to 36" and often run all the way down into the upper end of 35". For instance, the 40" toyo MTs on my land cruiser measured 39.75" mounted on the 17x10 steel wheels but a lot of people with narrower wheels have reported closer to a 38" size. The 11.50 wide maxxis tires mounted on 8.5 wide wheels measured roughly 34⅜" at 50 psi. That tire still doesn't fit the spare tire area by a fair margin.

I can tell you that you can probably fit a 35" tire without a lift as long as you adjusted the front suspension out. With some slick alignment work you could likely run a 35x11.50 tire. So a 2.5" suspension is only helping you more with ground clearance at the diffs, add a diff drop kit and you've more or less negated that. Meaning lift isn't the limiting factor for the tire range you're looking at, the proper wheel and tire combination is more of a factor.

I sought out skinny tires. There is evidence based on testing that shows most skinny tires have a larger footprint when aired down offroad; and it is less tire to add to the rub radius. I know skinny tire having more contact patch is counter intuitive, the wider the tire is, the more it bulges at the side wall and will stop at a certain point. The contact patch is more or less an off square shape. Skinny tires tend to flatten slightly more but more importantly their contact patch grows longer gaining more surface contact.

I hope I haven't muddled things up too much. The main things I hope you can take away are:
- that you may consider an 18" wheel over a 17"
- offset alone shouldn't be a determining factor
-tire stated and calculated size aren't the actual physical size
- Backspacing and offset should be looked at combined and not separately.

 

[dezahp]

I would caution against 17" wheels. Not many 17" wheels fit and those that do are very close to the caliper. I actually had to have the wheel weights on mine redone because even sticking them as far out as possible they still barely contacted the caliper. I suppose hammer on weights would have solved it also.

As for a 0 offset, when you get into larger tires and especially wider tires you shouldn't look at just the wheel offset. You need to look at the stock wheel width, backspacing and offset, as well as, tire width; and then the wheel you're wanting, width, backspacing, offset and tire width. Drawing yourself a picture to help visualize what the wheel and tire combo are doing will help ensure that overall you're close to the total distance your tire will sit into the fender.

The closer to 0 or a negative offset you get the further your tire sticks out. Most situations you will want no greater than +18 on larger tires on the Sequoia. I went with +25 and have very very minimal rub at full lock. I went with +25 because the wheel is 8.5 wide and the backspacing combined with offset put the tire really close to a sweet spot. I could probably adjust the control arms and get rid of all rub. I will likely do that when I disassemble for locker installation.

As far as the 315's are concerned, all I can say is there is the tires number/calculated size, and then there is the actual physical size of the mounted tire; and you should really look at the mounted physical tire size. Most 35" tires are closer to a "34 or even smaller. The vast majority of 37" tires are closer to 36" and often run all the way down into the upper end of 35". For instance, the 40" toyo MTs on my land cruiser measured 39.75" mounted on the 17x10 steel wheels but a lot of people with narrowee wheels have reported closer to a 38" size. The 11.50 wide maxxis tires mounted on 8.5 wide wheels measured roughly 34⅜" at 50 psi. That tire still doesn't fit the spare tire area by a fair margin.

I can tell you that you can probably fit a 35" tire without a lift as long as you adjusted the front suspension out. With some slick alignment work you could likely run a 35x11.50 tire. So a 2.5" suspension is only helping you more with ground clearance at the diffs, add a diff drop kit and you've more or less negated that. Meaning lift isn't the limiting factor for the tire range you're looking at, the proper wheel and tire combination is more of a factor.

I sought out skinny tires. There is evidence based on testing that shows most skinny tires have a larger footprint when aired down offroad; and it is less tire to add to the rub radius. I know skinny tire having more contact patch is counter intuitive, the wider the tire is, the more it bulges at the side wall and will stop at a certain point. The contact patch is more or less an off square shape. Skinny tires tend to flatten slightly more but more importantly their contact patch grows longer gaining more surface contact.

I hope I haven't muddled things up too much. The main things I hope you can take away are:
- that you may consider an 18" wheel over a 17"
- offset alone shouldn't be a determining factor
-tire stated and calculated size aren't the actual physical size
- Backspacing and offset should be looked at combined and not separately.

Wow that was much more than I was expecting but thanks for the response! Very informative and definitely gave me a better understanding.

 

[Ryan2103a]

I'm running 5100s all around with Dobinsons 2.5 all around. It's good enough for what I use the vehicle for. I also run Rock Warrior wheels w/ 285/75R17 = 34s and have the same size spare tire deflated stuffed under the vehicle.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I'm running 5100s all around with Dobinsons 2.5 all around. It's good enough for what I use the vehicle for. I also run Rock Warrior wheels w/ 285/75R17 = 34s and have the same size spare tire deflated stuffed under the vehicle.

I'm interested to know the actual measured tire size. Inflated to proper psi and measured to the edge of an outer lug.