New 24V headlights....?
- Thread starter VTCruiser
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- Thread starter
- #2
oh one more thing, is there a cheaper place to get these??
I have no suggestions for you, but I am pretty sure "halo" means halogen.
- Thread starter
- #5
haha good call Kevin......i'm retarded.....
Whats the stock wattage for these bulbs? what would be an improvement? My lights are working, as far as i know, i was just looking to upgrade brightness but am not sure what to look for..... does the "/" in those wattage descriptions separate the low/high beam wattage or what?
Whats the stock wattage for these bulbs? what would be an improvement? My lights are working, as far as i know, i was just looking to upgrade brightness but am not sure what to look for..... does the "/" in those wattage descriptions separate the low/high beam wattage or what?
you need a pair of these, Hella 7" E-codes(or any other e-code, like IPF or Cibie)
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/7in.asp
and a pair of these, H-4 24volt bulbs
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/H4.asp
the 60/55(or whatever) is the wattage, low/high, 75/70 would be good with stock wiring.
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/7in.asp
and a pair of these, H-4 24volt bulbs
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/H4.asp
the 60/55(or whatever) is the wattage, low/high, 75/70 would be good with stock wiring.
VT Cruiser, Have your headlights been changed from stock? I believe your headlights will be 12V, as all Cdn 24V cruisers are. You will need to re-wire your headlights if you want to change them to 24V. That certianly is not a bad option; Get rid of the evil 12V center tap.
When you power up your cruiser for the first time, pull the connectors, turn on the headlights and check each pin for it's voltage.
(edit) I have run 12V 55/100 in my BJ42 and my BJ60, and have the 24V70/75 in my BJ74. Stock wiring has held up to the 100 highs so far, though as pimp alludes it may well be the limit. The 100's sure are nice for road trips, late night, when little traffic is coming towards. I have both Hella and Bosch len's; both throw a nice pattern.
gb
When you power up your cruiser for the first time, pull the connectors, turn on the headlights and check each pin for it's voltage.
(edit) I have run 12V 55/100 in my BJ42 and my BJ60, and have the 24V70/75 in my BJ74. Stock wiring has held up to the 100 highs so far, though as pimp alludes it may well be the limit. The 100's sure are nice for road trips, late night, when little traffic is coming towards. I have both Hella and Bosch len's; both throw a nice pattern.
gb
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- Thread starter
- #9
Greg_B said:
Oh i believe they are stock, i just assumed they were 24V, interesting....
would there be any advantage of changing to 24V??
Depends...how's that for an answer 
What follows relates to Canadian Spec 24V Cruisers only: I have never been into the headlight system on an HJ60, so can speak from experience only with the BJ42. The 24V BJ42 uses a 12V dimmer switch, which is powered by the 12V center tap (negative pole of the highside battery). It splits the 12V to different poles in the switch, one of which supplies 12V to the neutral pin of one headlight, and 12V to the lowbeam pin on the same headlight. When the lights are off, all is balanced. This same dimmer switch has 24V coming into it, supplying 24V power to the high and low beam pins (when selected) of the 12V neutral pinned headlight, when the lights are on. 24V minus 12V neutral leaves 12V for the headlights. The other headlight is "normal, as in 0V neutral, 12V low and highbeam. This headlight is also supplied from the same dimmer switch. In effect, the Toyota engineers designed the headlights to create an even balanced draw on the two batteries (highside battery used for the 24V side, and lowside battery used for the 12V) and meet Canadian regulations (I still do not understand why this was an issue for the authorities here).
Wire your headlights to the 24V side of your system, and there is no evil 12V center tap to contend with. The stock system works, however it is much simpler and efficient to be straight 24V.
BTW...did I say I've no idea if your system mimics the BJ42 system? You should have 12V headlights (unless a PO changed them), but the above "might" be slightly different for your truck.
Access the DTLC archives, as there is a link and discussion on "fixing" the headlight system on every LC out there, and using relays to switch direct battery power to the headlights, instead of through miles of wire. If you are considering going straight 24V you might as well do this fix at the same time.
Hope that was clearer then mud.
gb
What follows relates to Canadian Spec 24V Cruisers only: I have never been into the headlight system on an HJ60, so can speak from experience only with the BJ42. The 24V BJ42 uses a 12V dimmer switch, which is powered by the 12V center tap (negative pole of the highside battery). It splits the 12V to different poles in the switch, one of which supplies 12V to the neutral pin of one headlight, and 12V to the lowbeam pin on the same headlight. When the lights are off, all is balanced. This same dimmer switch has 24V coming into it, supplying 24V power to the high and low beam pins (when selected) of the 12V neutral pinned headlight, when the lights are on. 24V minus 12V neutral leaves 12V for the headlights. The other headlight is "normal, as in 0V neutral, 12V low and highbeam. This headlight is also supplied from the same dimmer switch. In effect, the Toyota engineers designed the headlights to create an even balanced draw on the two batteries (highside battery used for the 24V side, and lowside battery used for the 12V) and meet Canadian regulations (I still do not understand why this was an issue for the authorities here).
Wire your headlights to the 24V side of your system, and there is no evil 12V center tap to contend with. The stock system works, however it is much simpler and efficient to be straight 24V.
BTW...did I say I've no idea if your system mimics the BJ42 system? You should have 12V headlights (unless a PO changed them), but the above "might" be slightly different for your truck.
Access the DTLC archives, as there is a link and discussion on "fixing" the headlight system on every LC out there, and using relays to switch direct battery power to the headlights, instead of through miles of wire. If you are considering going straight 24V you might as well do this fix at the same time.
Hope that was clearer then mud.
gb
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thorvald
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VTCruiser said:
pretty much any oem part ive seen on spector is list price, c-dan gives a good discount from list to mudders.
On my brothers HJ I "believe" it is set up the same way as Greg described. They are definately 12volt lights and the root of all evil. He has nothing but battery/charging issues and I would almost bet it is those damn lights.
My HJ61 has 24V lights and I have no issues what-so-ever.
I agree on the E code lights
I would also check out daniel stern
My HJ61 has 24V lights and I have no issues what-so-ever.
I agree on the E code lights
I would also check out daniel stern
- Thread starter
- #13
i think i got it, thanks greg. For now I will just leave them....maybe later i will deal with upgrading/rewiring them when i get the chance....thanks guys.
