Neutral Start Switch (NSS) Removal (1 Viewer)

[uscmas412]

When researching the click no start for my hot shot relay kit install, I found the NSS part # 8454030270 is still available. I finally ordered one as the directions in the FSM did not look too challenging...

Everything came apart pretty well, minus the "bolt" in what I assume is para 3(b) from page AT-9. This is the bolt the passes through the NSS. It did not want to freely pull out, and I didn't want to mess anything up so I reversed course and bolted the old stuff back together.

See red circles below, NSS wire housing is broken at the top and the protruding bolt in the bottom right won't remove. I tried to use vise grips on the flat portion, but that just rotated the transmission selector. The NSS appeared to be free other than that one bolt.

Here's a pic of the new part, comes with the 22mm nut and lock washer FWIW.

I used the alignment procedure on AT-36 when I put it all back together, but I noticed some play in the drive selector. Not sure if it's been this way, or I'm just now noticing.




How do I remove the bolt and is the selector movement normal?

 

[uscmas412]

Oh forgot to ask, anyone replacing these bushings on the transmission shaft lever. They're definitely shot.

 

[Fj80oregon]

From your picture I would think that the NSS just pulls of the side of the tranny and that stub would stay in? Then just slide the new NSS on and secure? I have never done this is just what it appears to my mind.

 

[uscmas412]

From your picture I would think that the NSS just pulls of the side of the tranny and that stub would stay in? Then just slide the new NSS on and secure? I have never done this is just what it appears to my mind.

I had that thought too and gave the NSS a firm tug & used a plastic trim bar but didn't want to break something. I have to drive to work in the AM lol.

I soaked it in PB blaster prior to reassembly, so maybe that + a torch will do the trick when I have more time.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Just read a couple post and it definitely slides of that stub but can be stuck from years of grime and corrosion. Use your preferred penetrating oil and tap the NSS and the shaft from the side not the face with a rubber mallet, may even require some heat from a torch to slide off.

 

[uscmas412]

Got the old one removed and new one in place. Took a hack saw and torch, but it worked. New NSS went on with ease.

Truck will not start now. I’ve aligned the bolt groove with neutral basic line per FSM with trans selector in neutral. Yes, harness is connected.

Any ideas?

 

[ToyotaDon]

Does the starter solenoid click? If so, the connection and adjustment are okay.

 

[uscmas412]

Starter does not engage or click. By my math, if I have the NSS aligned per FSM (with wire harness connection attached) but not bolted to vehicle it should start.

I tried the new and old this way with no luck. I’ve also tried the new one fully bolted.

 

[uscmas412]

Here’s the old NSS, which was working prior to me mangling the compression threads.

 

[uscmas412]

Verification the NSS removes and the transmission stud stays. I did have to lightly sand with a dremel to get the old one off.

 

[uscmas412]

@jonheld could I jump 6-5 & 4-10 to bypass NSS?

 

[deltapine1]

There is a known corrosion issue with the two larger wires in the NSS plug. I am not near my parts stock but the pigtail and pin as well as the plastic plug is available from Toyota. From the looks of your NSS plug the wiring harness side is likely as dirty. I would unplug it and clean it well with electrical contactor cleaner and inspect the two larger wire pins well with a good light.

 

[uscmas412]

There is a known corrosion issue with the two larger wires in the NSS plug. I am not near my parts stock but the pigtail and pin as well as the plastic plug is available from Toyota. From the looks of your NSS plug the wiring harness side is likely as dirty. I would unplug it and clean it well with electrical contactor cleaner and inspect the two larger wire pins well with a good light.

So 5 & 6 from the diagram above? I definitely cleaned the snot out of the wiring harness side, but I guess a logical step would be to pull the wires and check for corrosion. Vehicle cranked and drove into the garage fine this AM but 30 year old wires could be prone to issues when moved.

I’ve never de-pinned a harnesss…but I guess it’s already broken.

 

[deltapine1]

pins 6 & 5. They make a tool for depinning the plugs but many a heavy duty paper clip has been used.

In reviewing your photos above again I can see the plug for the NSS and it doesn't look horrible but I would clean it a second time. There is one bolt on top of the tranny that holds a wire loom loop. It isn't that difficult to pull that bolt and then be able to have enough slack in the loom to get the plug down where you can inspect it and de pin the plug. I think I fished my loom across to the drivers side and got it down pretty low. I pulled the wire loom back and could see bumpy sections of the wires that I assume were corrosion.

 

[uscmas412]

I prob won’t dig into tearing the connector apart tonight, but visually the pins look good. No chaffed insulation on the backside either.

Photo makes it look like top left connector is missing, but it’s there.

 

[uscmas412]

Solved. Easiest answer is the solution and I feel slowww.

The drive selector bolt on the trans moves opposite of the gear selector. If the bolt is turned all the way towards rear of vehicle, it’s in park. All the way forward and it’s in L. You can verify position with key on and checking for reverse lights.

 

[taylort232]

Did this fix your no start issue?