Need positive and negative winch cables for 8274

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Just finished the rebuild of the 8274, new motor and synthetic line are due in any day now. Everything is complete but the power cables from the battery to the winch. I have the old ones but they are dryrotted and cracked. Any advice on what I can use. I was thinking of using jumper cables and just cut the ends and fit with the appropriate connectors but heat might be an issue with those. Anybody have any ideas or know what can be used?
 
welding cables....find strand, very flexible, nice durable jackets....hit your local weld supply place and see if they have anything laying around....at times, they'll cut too short and have spare pieces that are still 8-15' laying around, where customers want 20'.

That's how I got mine...stuff is as thick as my thumb :D
 
Woody's correct, the larger finer strand cable is by far the best you'll keep the amperages down and get more life and power out of your winch.
 
awesome, thanks guys. I'll track some down today.
 
Car audio shops have the really thick stuff also,
 
I've found car radio shops charge double or triple the going rate.

When I made mine I went to napa and bought 0 or 00 gauge battery cable ( i can't remember). Filled the ends with solder and stuck them on. It was fairly fine strand maybe not as fine as welding cable but it's done the job well.
 
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Welding cable is much more flexible than Battery cable and easier for routing.
 
Niner said:
Welding cable is much more flexible than Battery cable and easier for routing.

The reason it's more flexible in part is due to the heat rating of the shielding/cover. If you use welding cable, just make sure to keep it away from the "hot spots" or shield it appropriately. If you're interested in the specs, a NAPA catalog will have them.
 
made my own probably 20+ years ago out of (if I remember correctly) 0 gauge fine wire welding cable. you can add your own ends in whatever ring size you need. best to use a crimper or solder the ends on and use heat shrink over each end. also protect the cable whever it will rub on metal. had a cousin blow up a battery when his winch cable rubbed through and shorted out.
 
re_guderian said:
The reason it's more flexible in part is due to the heat rating of the shielding/cover. If you use welding cable, just make sure to keep it away from the "hot spots" or shield it appropriately. If you're interested in the specs, a NAPA catalog will have them.

The extra fine strands inside also make a huge differance in flexability.

03-14-06 06:39 PM
atavuss made my own probably 20+ years ago out of (if I remember correctly) 0 gauge fine wire welding cable. you can add your own ends in whatever ring size you need. best to use a crimper or solder the ends on and use heat shrink over each end. also protect the cable whever it will rub on metal. had a cousin blow up a battery when his winch cable rubbed through and shorted out.

any rub or heat points i like to run it through some 5/8" heater hose, cheap insurance.
 
Marine supply also. They have tin coated copper in many sizes. Downside is the cost for coated copper @ $1.00+ a foot for #0 or #1.
 
Another option for insulating those cables is the non-metallic electric conduit available at Home Depot in 1/2", 3/4", and 1" sizes and available per foot.
 
Where can you get the boots at the winch end of the cable?


ALF
 
alf said:
Where can you get the boots at the winch end of the cable?


ALF

I got a bunch of this kind of stuff from www.stellmar.com, but it seems their web site is down right now?
 
Spend some time/cash to make your terminals good and high quality too. I would go with copper lugs, crimped and soldered!

Sounds like fun, any pics? Before after?

Rezarf <><
 

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