Sounds like you dont have an over flow.
Post some good pics of the engine bay. Also start it, let it warm up, and shut it off and se where the coolant comes from.
Need help with my FJ40/Mechanic in Chicago
- Thread starter edin351
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Sounds like you dont have an over flow.
Post some good pics of the engine bay. Also start it, let it warm up, and shut it off and se where the coolant comes from.
Shouldn't you be in school studying trig or physics or something? Jeepers! If Gumby gets on here and see you cutting class he'll have a conniption then arrange to give you a Saturday detention. He is not only a Cruiser god, he's also a teaching god!
Send me an email and I'll pass along pictures of where you want to start looking. In the meantime, get back to class and focus on your studies. The cruiser can wait until you get your homework done.
Send me an email and I'll pass along pictures of where you want to start looking. In the meantime, get back to class and focus on your studies. The cruiser can wait until you get your homework done.
Shouldnt you be writing seat belt tickets and scarfin pastry rings?....
Why break my streak? I haven't been to traffic court or written a moving violation in 11 years. I haven't written a parking ticket in 5 years. As far as pastries go, I gave those up a few years back to avoid the sugar and heavy carbs.
The only thing I have on my agenda today is reports. Then more reports. Do a little lunch. Then more reports. Tomorrow is a fun day though. I get to go and evict the residentially challenged from my vacant buildings.
Shouldnt you be writing seat belt tickets and scarfin pastry rings?....
Who is this guy, Rev. Pflegar?
- Thread starter
- #26
I don't have a first period, so either I come in late or I just hang out around school. And right now it's the last period of the day where i have an economics independent study...but my buddies aren't here so I just get to mess around.
I'll run the car a bit tonight and get some pictures and get back to you guys.
Thanks soo much everyone! This thread should be helpful in convincing my parents to keep the truck.
I'll run the car a bit tonight and get some pictures and get back to you guys.
Thanks soo much everyone! This thread should be helpful in convincing my parents to keep the truck.
- Thread starter
- #27
Nice 40.
Looks like you have no over flow resevoir on the rad. That would be the source of the "leak"
Seriously, if your parents decide they dont feel like maintaing this rig, Im pretty sure I can convince my wife to trade her fj62 for that. If you/they are looking for "reliable/vintage" 62 is the best bet.
Looks like you have no over flow resevoir on the rad. That would be the source of the "leak"
Seriously, if your parents decide they dont feel like maintaing this rig, Im pretty sure I can convince my wife to trade her fj62 for that. If you/they are looking for "reliable/vintage" 62 is the best bet.
- Thread starter
- #29
Ok thanks!! Is it easy to install an overflow bottle?
I'm glad I joined this thread because they are definitely leaning more towards keeping the truck,
I'm really happy about that, I love it.
I'm glad I joined this thread because they are definitely leaning more towards keeping the truck,
I'm really happy about that, I love it.
Ok thanks!! Is it easy to install an overflow bottle?
I'm glad I joined this thread because they are definitely leaning more towards keeping the truck,
In that case....no its terrible to install and nearly impossible.....
I would think there was a factory resevoir that was offered in the later models when they became manditory.
But for the best answer you must consult the elders....you must be patient, they are likely asleep now, and usually dont check boards until after brunch.
I may be old and cantankerous but I'll never do brunch!
Eric you scored a pretty damn nice cruiser that has had a lot of work done to it! From the pics I can see you have the following.
F motor with possibly a Weber 38 carb with washable air cleaner.
GM Saginaw Power steering conversion.
GM Alternator conversion, 1 wire unit maybe? I could be wrong. 12SI High output?
Disc Brake conversion. Probably mini/60 series rotors and calipers up front and GM's in the rear.
High Steer setup possibly from 4x4 Labs. Drool!
Anti-wrap bar on the rear axle
Double Cardin rear drive shaft.
You seem to be missing the front drive shaft. Did one come with the truck?
Overall a very nice setup!!!!
Now here's what I want you to do. In the pic below you'll see a tube circled in red. Follow that to where it ends. Is your leak coming from there?
Eric you scored a pretty damn nice cruiser that has had a lot of work done to it! From the pics I can see you have the following.
F motor with possibly a Weber 38 carb with washable air cleaner.
GM Saginaw Power steering conversion.
GM Alternator conversion, 1 wire unit maybe? I could be wrong. 12SI High output?
Disc Brake conversion. Probably mini/60 series rotors and calipers up front and GM's in the rear.
High Steer setup possibly from 4x4 Labs. Drool!
Anti-wrap bar on the rear axle
Double Cardin rear drive shaft.
You seem to be missing the front drive shaft. Did one come with the truck?
Overall a very nice setup!!!!
Now here's what I want you to do. In the pic below you'll see a tube circled in red. Follow that to where it ends. Is your leak coming from there?
If that leak is coming from that hose I circled, you can get a factory coolant overflow bottle and cap. You can get a used one from either Marks Off Road Home Page or SOR Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Page 054 Cooling System
Either one should have it and it's a breeze to install.
Either one should have it and it's a breeze to install.
- Thread starter
- #33
I do think thats where the leak is coming from. I will look into getting that bottle.
Two more things:
1. The alternator is currently not working, so I hope and pray it cranks each time I start it. I drove 8 hours with the speakers turned up and the headlights on, so it worked then...but now it won't charge the battery. PhilC64-- this is maybe something you could help me out with when you come to check it out.
2. Like i said, the mechanics said that the front diff has a lot of play in it...but I guess I can't confirm this until I throw the driveshaft on and actually try it right? The previous owner said that he put an Aussie Locker in there so every part should be new. Is this true?
Thanks!
Two more things:
1. The alternator is currently not working, so I hope and pray it cranks each time I start it. I drove 8 hours with the speakers turned up and the headlights on, so it worked then...but now it won't charge the battery. PhilC64-- this is maybe something you could help me out with when you come to check it out.
2. Like i said, the mechanics said that the front diff has a lot of play in it...but I guess I can't confirm this until I throw the driveshaft on and actually try it right? The previous owner said that he put an Aussie Locker in there so every part should be new. Is this true?
Thanks!
My guess is the person who installed the locker doesnt understand backlash. You can get under the truck and rotate the pinion flange, and tell us how many degrees of rotation you get til it stops in each direction (just a rough estimate). Remember to lock the hubs first.
An overflow bottle can be about as simple or difficult as you want it to be. All it is basically is a container that should hold probably about at least a pint to a quart (or more) of fluid and you connect it to the overflow hose coming off the nipple on your radiator filler neck. This hose should either connect to the bottom of the bottle or if it goes in the top it should extend all the way to the bottom. The purpose is to catch the coolant escaping the radiator when it overflows, and at the same time it will draw some of the coolant back in if it needs it (that's why the hose must extend to the bottom of the bottle). I've seen guys use something as simple as a litre water bottle with a hose stuck in it, or something as elaborate as a polished billet cylinder. And you are not looking to seal it up tight, the bottle needs to be able to breathe. If I were you I'd grab a bottle of water (or beerOk thanks!! Is it easy to install an overflow bottle?
I'm glad I joined this thread because they are definitely leaning more towards keeping the truck,
), drink it, and stick that hose in it (all the way to the bottom) and see if that solves the problem. Also, the bottle should be lower than the top of the radiator. Set it wherever it will stay put, or wire tie it, or whatever works. Hope this makes sense.That looks like a standard 10/12SI GM alternator, very inexpensive if it is bad. Do you have a test light or voltmeter? First off, back-alley test: Start the truck, and with it running disconnect the negative battery cable. If the truck still runs, alternator is OK. If it dies: Reconnect neg. cable. Check to see if you have approx. 12 volts (or a brite test light bulb) at the large "BAT lug" on the back of alternator. If not, you have a wire that has lost its connection. If that's OK, then check the terminals on that 2-wire plug on the side of the alternator. One of them (number "2") should also have approx. 12 volts (or a brite test light bulb). If not, you have a wire that has lost its connection. See if this helps.
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Adding a disclaimer. Ive read discussions about this method and there are mixed reviews on how safe it is for the vehicles electrical system. IIRC it may be ok on old vehicles, but doing it to a newer vehicle can cause damage (to the alternator if I remember correctly) I read it a while ago so I could be mistaken. I believe the thread was on Pirate4x4.
BTW "easy" way I check an alternator is to turn the vehicle to "on" and note the voltage guage (if the 40 doesnt have one you can use a volt meter on the batt.) Then start the vehicle and if the voltage goes up slightly the alt may be good. If it stays the same it may be bad. Also check all the connections.
if the alt is fried, I may have an extra one sitting on the shelf you can have.
have yours tested at napa or carquest. They will do it for you and then you can be sure that is the issue.
goebs
have yours tested at napa or carquest. They will do it for you and then you can be sure that is the issue.
goebs
It is very bad for the alternator and any computer controlled parts to pull a battery wire off of a running car. A FJ40 doesn't have too many parts that would be hurt by a voltage spike, but it's not a good thing to do to the alternator.
The battery should have 12-12.6V at rest and 13.5-14.7V while running.
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Yeah, these guys are right, I probably should have put a disclaimer in there besides just calling it a "back-alley" method. I wouldn't recommend doing it on a newer computer controlled vehicle, though I'm not afraid to do it on old stuff, including my FJ40.
But is definitely "back alley", not the correct way to do it.
However, if you are leery of "testing" it that way, you can still do the other tests for voltage that I detailed, and if either one of those comes up bad that will be at least part of your charging issue - if not the whole problem. And they are tests easily done without removing the alternator.