Need help with electrical problem

[trailrunner5752]

I have a basic and stock 96 land cruiser with no modifications and no alarm system. - 177k miles. For many years the check engine light has been on. Scans by a couple of shops have displayed a P code (sorry can’t remember which one, had a 4 in it I think) indicating the O2 sensor but emissions tests directly reading the O2 sensor while running pass. Recently the 7 year old battery started getting weak so I cleaned off a ton of salt with sodium bicarb on the positive terminal clamp and then 2 weeks later replaced the battery and the positive clamp. Each time the battery was disconnected, the following happened:

Open the driver door and the open door light on the dash flashes and clicks loudly about once a second for around 2 minutes. The location of the clicking noise is somewhere near the ignition behind the instrument panel (one of the ignition relays?). If the door stays open the whole time, it pauses for a few seconds after 2 minutes then repeats the cycle. If the door is closed, it stops after 2 minutes. Trying to start the car, the ignition switch makes a barely audible electronic click just once that sounds like it is coming from the door locks and the clock display completely dims out when holding the key in the start position.

I surfed around the internet and found the most helpful hints on this forum. The first time the battery was disconnected, I was able to start the car by locking and unlocking the doors, then turning the ignition switch to the on position for at least 10 minutes, then turning the key to the off position, trying start again while holding down the push button on the ignition ring. You can’t make this stuff up! I let it idle for a few minutes, turned it off, opened the door and I was back to square one. Went through the same sequence with key on for 10 minutes, etc, took the car out for a 15 minute spin on the highway, problem solved. It ran normally for 2 weeks until I replaced the battery and the flashing OD light, no start was back. I tried the sequence of 10 minutes on etc and many variations for a couple of days and nothing worked. Then I tried turning the key to start a 2nd time and it started up. Drove it home about 10 minutes, turned it off opened the door - flashing lights. No luck getting it started again, I have tried many different sequences including entering from the passenger side which does not trigger a flashing OD light. There is plenty of juice in the battery, jumping doesn’t make any difference. I sure want to keep this car and get whatever is wrong repaired but don’t want to hand it to somebody unless they have some idea of where and what the problem is - I talked to the shop foreman at the local dealer and he has never seen this problem - “bring it in for a diagnostic.” So, I am wondering if anyone here has any ideas?

 

[trailrunner5752]

A little more

I looked over the wiring diagrams provided in this forum and the only common item I can find to all the symptoms is the circuit opening relay. Does that make sense? Is it something that can get pretty hot? - I have noticed for the past 6 months that the left front wheel well gets warm to hot.

 

[40Habits]

I would check the obvious stuff first and then start to work back.

Check your starter to see if you get any power to the solenoid.
Have someone turn the key while you check it with a multi-meter or take it off and have a parts store check it for free.

 

[trailrunner5752]

Thanks 40Habits - I am a total rookie on repairs. I ran 12 v directly to the S terminal on the solenoid and it cranked. I am not sure I am checking the solenoid correctly. I ran the positive to the S2 terminal and the negative to the negative terminal on the battery - no current 0.00. One of the procedures I read says this shows a bad ignition switch or a bad neutral safety switch. Kinda lost here.

 

[40Habits]

I would check the ignition switch next.

Switch position

LOCK − No continuity

ACC 7 − 9 Continuity

ON 3 − 4, 6 − 7 − 9 Continuity

START 2 − 3 − 4 , 6 − 9 − 10 Continuity

 

[trailrunner5752]

OK - After I checked the fusible link wires from the battery and the ground from the battery and the solenoid, I checked the ignition. Everything checks out except the 6-7-9 with the key in the on position. I also looked at the neutral safety switch and it appears to be OK - no corrosion or anything obvious visually. So - a new ignition cylinder? Or is there some work around for this to make sure it is the problem? 2 days ago, I tried turning the key to start about 20 times and a few times it started to move and once it cranked for a second. The solenoid clicks every time I turn the start key. It seems like the problem is not enough power to the starter but the continuity checks out for the key in the start position.

 

[40Habits]

If you can here the solenoid clicking every time, I doubt it is the ignition. If you know your battery is good and you have enough power to turn the engine over. I would pull the starter and have it checked just to be sure.

 

[trailrunner5752]

Problem solved - all of the above. I finally decided to take it into my mechanics. This is my primary vehicle, not a play toy so needed to get it running. The solenoid was marginal but still functioning. Turns out there was an aftermarket alarm system installed but not sure how I could have known this. No horn beeping or whoop de whoops but I thought that there must have been some factory installed system the way it behaved after disconnecting the battery. Wouldn't have known what I was looking at under the dashboard. Had a reman starter installed, started up but only 1 out 3 or 4 times. Had them remove the alarm system, now starts up every time and the check engine light is no longer lit. See how long this lasts but just thought I'd post this for future reference. Thanks 40Habits for your help and patience - learned a lot.