Hi Everybody, my o6 is in need of front brakes, metal on metal, anyone use any aftermarket kits that they like? or best to stick to OEM. If you have used kits what did they come with, roter's pads springs, gaskets?
Need front brakes
- Thread starter 1hundy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Slee Off-Road is having a sale on brake kits. I have the rotors they sell as well as use them with Toyota pads which they are selling in the kit on one of my LXs. When it comes time for brakes on the 2005 I will use the same rotor and pad setup from Slee. Great deal, don't pass it up.
GO with Akebono or OEM. If planning on changing rotors, plan to grease the wheel bearing as well at the same time. You might want to get some hardware (anit rattle clips, retainer clips, caliper guide bolts) as an extra precaution if you need them, you have them. There is a great Youtube video showing the front brake work on LC 100.
Go OEM if you want average and if you don't tow or drive it hard. If you want an upgrade, look at EBC and Hawk. I run Hawk HPS and its a huge upgrade for a three ton vehicle. My pads are slightly better at cold temps, but they grab harder and harder as they heat up where my stock pads had tons of fade. Hope that helps!
I changed the front pads about a year ago and used Slee's...oem rotors did not need replacement.
If you plan on greasing the front wheel bearings, don't forget about the inner bushings while you're at it. Slee makes a super tool to make the inner bushings about a 5 minute job with little mess.
Steve
I just did the fronts 3 weeks ago. Centric Premium rotors ($44 ea. Amazon) and Akebono pads ($55). I have about 900 miles on them. Very happy with them so far. Good bite, no noise, and warped pulsating pedal is gone. You'll need a 54mm hex socket to remove the wheel bearing jam nuts. While in there, I noticed the CV joints are shot and the hub drive flange splines are badly worn (185k miles). I had a lot of trouble getting the drivers side hub flange to slide off of the splined stub shaft. It was a bitch getting the cone sleeves loose. The C-clip and thrust washer had wear on them. I plan to replace the CV/axles soon and will order new drive flanges & related bits for that job.
The anti rattle springs make a noticeable difference and I am guessing that a lot of shops leave them off. Don't make that mistake. They take 60 seconds to install.