Need advise from carburetor, distributor, and ignition gurus.

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What Sarge said !!! The non-Toyota mechanical advance (without vacuum advance) dizzys normally only produce about 26 degrees advance, your engine requires 40 degrees on hard acceleration, consequently you'd have to set your static timing at 14 degrees advanced- - - dumb. Also, most of the non-Toyota dizzys only advance between 1200 and 2400 RPM (quick rev. ???), Toyota dizzys starts advancing at 500 RPM and continues (on demand) to 5,000 RPM.
 
So I found the old OEM distributor in a box and figured due to the cost of a new one I'd try to freshen up the old one and see how the Cruiser ran with it. So I was going to just do a cap, rotor, points and clean and lube all moving parts and housing. So I removed all the parts and this is what I found.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1433302953.714609.webp


I knew there was excessive end play, but I didn't think is find this, it looks like it was dragging for quite a while. So I guess a new one might be necessary at this point since the bottom of the housing is partially wore away. Anyway, I thought I'd keep interested people updated.
 
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Distributor purchased from Trollhole, I'll post up result as soon as I get it installed.
 
So, does anyone know how to get in contact with Trollhole? So, I took everyone's advice and purchased a distributor from Trollhole on June 3rd, 2015. After I sent payment I sent a conversation message 5 days later letting him know I sent the money since I never heard from him after is sent payment and he promptly replied stating the distributor would be sent either today or tomorrow, which was June 8th, 2015. Since then I have sent messages to him on June 29th and July 7th with no response at all. Is this common issue when purchasing from him?
 
onemanarmy said:
Long story short..... Yes
Click to expand...
Do you at least get the product in the end? I did find the phone number, does calling have any impact on getting the product?
 
Well, I've had 2 interactions with Trollhole.

I bought a carb a year or so ago, payed my money through paypal and sent a PM to double check, and heard not a word until it showed up on my doorstep, a month later or so. It's worked fine, no technical help needed.

I recently inquired about rebuild parts for another carb I inherited, and numerous PM and email was sent about that. Heard nothing. Last week I get a random PM saying the parts were on the way, heard nothing since, and don't have the parts yet.

I don't think he has an issue with getting you the parts, just can't get in touch with him. I think everyone is pleased with his products, but I don't what I'm going to do if I ever have an issue with his product that causes my vehicle to be inop.

The problem is that he sources the parts, for a good price, and has pleased many people, but what do you do for support? I know he is busy, and am not bashing, just saying.
 
Thanks, it's good to say so people understand what they are getting into, I just wish Cruiser Outfitters would start carrying those type of products, they have great customer service before and after the purchase. I guess I'll just keep waiting for the distributor, it sounds like it'll be a good one when it gets here. Thanks for the heads up.
 
So, I finally received the distributor and installed it. It is a nice unit, easy to install, and eliminates points, definitely a good upgrade/replacement. So, once the install of the new distributor was done I tested to see if this was the solution to the problems I was having before the swap, at this point in time the answer is no. I still have some serious hesitation problems right off idle, I am getting a popping/backfiring during coast while driving, and a slight hesitation during slow acceleration. Once I open the secondary it has plenty of power and has none of the previous stated problems. With the distributor I did notice a cleaner/smoother power curve which was nice for off the line starts and lugging while driving.
So, I figured at this point in time I have a carburetor issue. I know everyone is going to say buy a Trollhole, or send it off to Jim or Dave, but I have done many carb rebuilds with success, exlcuding this one, and everything seems to be in order with the carb. I would like to see if someone might have some ideas as to the best way to isolate an internal carb problem and what might be the best way to begin troubleshooting. I am currently studying the manual on the 72 carb to see where in the carb I might be having the problem, but some advise from other carb guys would be helpful.

Thanks
Scott
 
The popping during engine braking is prevented by the air bypass valve and throttle positioner. If these have been removed, then it is going to do this.

The hesitation off idle may be due to a manifold vacuum leak rather than a carb problem. If disconnecting the idle fuel cut off solenoid has no effect on idle, then you may have a vacuum leak.
 
I didn't think the early 72 had a air bypass valve? and I'm unfamiliar with the throttle positioner, would you explain please.

I will check the idle fuel cut of solenoid when I get home tonight. I checked vacuum with a gauge and it was right at 15hg's at idle.

I did notice something a little interesting, when I was starting it last night I watched the accelerator pump and port while pushing the fuel pedal, it was sluggish and only a drip of fuel came out of the port. When I engaged the accelerator pump from under the hood by hand it sprayed a nice mist into the throat of the carb. I know during the rebuild I checked and cleaned all ports, and they were clear, it seems like there is some resistance somewhere. I also noticed that when I removed the air horn the accelator pump skirt had one little section that had inverted. I figured it was from improper installation, but I wonder now if it is a result of resistance.

Scott
 
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I thought you were talking about the 79s in your signature line.
'72 didn't have that stuff.
The popping is unburned fuel igniting in the hot exhaust manifold. At high manifold vacuum the mix is too leak to ignite by spark. When it hits the exhaust manifold: boom. Having air leak into the exhaust makes this worse. The pre-smog way to cure it was to richen the idle mix so that it would ignite by spark, but this creates CO and it is apparently not possible to richen it enough on smog controlled carbs.
 
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Sorry, my 40 is a '79, I'm doing this for a nephew of mine, he is the one who owns the '72. I'll look into the fuel solenoid right now to see if it is functioning, and after that I'm going to look into the accelerator pump to see if I have a problem there.

Thanks
Scott
 
So, it looks like I found the culprit. After seeing the issue with the accelerator pump I did a little looking to find out what was causing the resistance and poor spray out of the pump nozzle. I took the air horn off and used a spare pump with my finger over the stopper hole to see if I could get a good spray, while doing this it plugged completely. I ground a pick down and used it to clear the nozzle. Once the nozzle was clear I tried again and found that the nozzle sprayed like it should. I then adjusted the float slightly, put the carb back together, tested the fuel cut solenoid, then fired it up. The results were no hesitation at all, good idle, and power throughout without the popping/backfire. Since this problem was present from the beginning and through both rebuilds I am guessing it must not have been sludge since I soaked the carb both times in carb dip. Anyway, it looks to be fixed for now. Now I just have to figure out why my right signal doesn't work even though the left and the hazards on both sides work. baby steps:cheers:
 
Yea, I'm a little worried about that. I repaired the tank with POR 15 and replaced the fuel lines and filter up to the pump. I didn't replace the pump or the lines from the pump to the carb. Hopefully I don't see more problems. Thanks again for the help.
 
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